Bangladesh's capital Dhaka is a noisy, exciting city, full of energy and argument.
The protest now happening outside the national museum is of an unprecedented nature, and on an unprecedented scale.
Since February 5, Bangladesh has been transfixed by this ongoing, immense protest. Hundreds of thousands have occupied Shahbagh Square in protest at a verdict passed by the International Crimes Tribunal on war crimes committed during the genocide which preceded the founding of the country in 1971.
One of those found guilty, Abdul Kalam Azad, was sentenced to death. Another, however, Abdul Quader Mollah, the assistant secretary general of a Muslim party which collaborated with the genocidaires, the Jamaate-Islami, was given life imprisonment.
The genocide is still too little known about in the West. Before 1971, Bangladesh was East Pakistan, detached from the main body of the country. The founders had believed that the unity of religion would bind it together. Over time, however, the incompatibility of secular cultures had grown overwhelming. Some of the Pakistani rulers regarded the Bengalis with open racist contempt.