Song Un Pyol is manager at the Potonggang department store. Photo / AP
Song Un Pyol is manager at the Potonggang department store. Photo / AP
From Starbucks-style coffee shops to designer labels and high-end bars, life in North Korea continues as normal despite military tensions seemingly reaching fever pitch.
That's according to North Korean tour operators and regular visitors to the country who say news of the ballistic missile tests has barely penetrated public life in Pyongyang.
Lupin Travel's destination manager for North Korea, James Finnerty, has travelled to North Korea six times and said missile tests often go unreported internally.
"It's not something they seem to express a huge amount of concern over," he said in reference to local tour operators who the company partners with. "When they have these successful ICBM tests, very rarely are they reported in the country."
A staff member is seen reflected in a mirror for sale in Pyongyang, North Korea. Photo / AP
He was in the country when North Korea claimed its fifth successful nuclear test in September 2016 and said "it wasn't reported domestically" but featured on international news playing at some Pyongyang hotels.
While he said there are dramatic differences between the capital and countryside, many tourists are surprised by how cosmopolitan Pyongyang appears.
"Some people see documentaries from years ago and they're usually quite shocked," he said about streets where people will carry Gucci and Louis Vuitton handbags, drive Hummers or BMWs and frequent Western-style bars that would not be out of place in London or Beijing.
A boy collects toys in the aisle of a department store in Pyongyang. Photo / AP
"A lot of people love taking the metro," he said about tourists who marvel at locals playing a version of Candy Crush on their North Korean brand smartphones.
"One thing that always catches people off guard is people playing on their mobile phone. It's something people can really relate to - a trivial thing like that."
Military tension between the US, South Korea, Japan and North Korea has ratcheted up drastically in recent months as the pace of North Korean ballistic missile tests has increased.
Luxury brands available to buy in Pyongyang, North Korea. Photo / AP
President Trump has vowed "fire and fury" in response and promised "all options are on the table", while North Korea hit back by firing a missile over northern Japan and said Guam is in its sights.
The United Nations Security Council has recently increased economic sanctions, with many countries placing pressure on China as a major North Korean trading partner to do more. The US has also made it illegal for citizens to travel there from tomorrow September 1 and warned those in the country to leave.
Despite the crackdown, Finnerty said the recent tension has done little to dent demand and views it as a "real shame" Americans will no longer be able to visit the country and engage with people living there.
Samples of different types of beer are displayed in a refrigerator at the Taedonggang Brewery in Pyongyang. Photo / AP
"Our local partners have gotten to know a lot more about different countries. It's a real shame that Americans can't go there and that North Koreans won't be able to meet Americans," he said.
It's a view echoed by Koryo Tours general manager, Simon Cockerell, who has travelled to the country more than 150 times and worked to open up new areas to tourism.
He told news.com.au from Pyongyang all tours are operating as normal despite rising rhetoric.
Cashiers stand at checkout counters waiting to serve customers at the Potonggang department store. Photo / AP
"All the tours are going ahead as planned and the situation on the ground for tourists hasn't changed at all," he said.
While this is "one of the periods of the highest tensions", analysis shows "war is not looming and the cycle of escalation is continuing, as it has for decades," he said.
"This is not something we take lightly though and we keep a careful and close eye on the situation and consult with a range of organisations and agencies frequently."
People walk past a shelf displaying both local and imported snacks from China at the Potonggang department store. Photo / AP
Cockerell said most who visit are surprised by the simple fact it's populated by "human beings" rather than a "cartoon goosestepping army."
"Relatable people for the most part, people with aspirations that match those of the visitors, people who are granted no agency in media reports (on any side), and people who are the ones who shoulder all the burdens in the country," he said.
The Australian government advises people to "reconsider" their need for travel given the ballistic missile tests which are "further aggravating the already tense situation on the Peninsula."
"Foreigners may be arrested, detained or expelled from DPRK for activities that would not be considered crimes in Australia, including perceived disrespectful behaviour to the country, or current and former leaders," it said.
