The world's largest private yacht looms over the old port of Barcelona - its six-deck, 163m profile offering proof of the love of Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich for a city he is visiting again this week as his football team, Chelsea, tries today to secure a place in the Champions League finals.
But the superyacht, equipped with its own mini-submarine and anti-paparazzi shield, is a symbol of what residents in the traditional fishermen's neighbourhood of La Barceloneta fear will bring about the demise of one of the few city-centre barrios to have maintained its traditional working-class character.
Old Barcelona is under threat. A British private investment fund has taken control of much of the port area and has asked for an extended licence so that it can turn the Marina Port Vell into the Mediterranean's prime home for superyachts. Sources close to the group said it wanted the licence to run until 2036.
The London-based Salamanca Group, run by founder Martin Bellamy, a former army officer, intends to make the marina home to yachts up to 180m long, bringing the planet's growing club of mega-rich to a marina that it says "dominates the heart of Barcelona". But Barceloneta residents say the boats will dwarf the neighbourhood's famously narrow, four- or five-storey blocks of flats, where working-class families live in tiny homes and colourful outdoor washing lines leave the neighbourhood's laundry on public display.
"I've lived here all my life and the barrio has a special identity, precisely because so many working-class people have always lived here," said 68-year-old pensioner Antonio Garcia, of the L'Ostia neighbourhood group. "But this will price us out, turning the port into a place only for the very rich and changing things forever."