On Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944, layer upon layer of United States, British and Canadian warships lined the Normandy shore. German anti-tank obstacles packed the beaches. Lethal aircraft dotted the sky.
Today, a grassy knoll blends gently into the wide beach, small waves lapping at the shore. Two tourists stand alone on the vast expanse.
But D-Day was just Day One. The battle for Normandy took two-and-a-half more months, near-levelling entire towns and gutting medieval monuments.
Putrefied corpses once scattered the streets of the town of Saint-Lo. Helmeted US soldiers watched from a makeshift trench, a mountain of crumbled stone behind them. Today, that rubble is the rebuilt Saint-Lo Church.
The Allies liberated one of France's most striking monuments, the Mont-Saint-Michel peninsula monastery, from Nazi rule in the weeks after D-Day. It now gets 2 million tourists a year.
Much of the architectural damage to Normandy came not from Nazi occupation but from Allied bombings.
Soldiers placed a steel beam across a ditch in Pont-L'Eveque to walk past the 15th century St Michel Church, its lonely arches leading to nowhere after their surrounding walls collapsed. Now, neatly trimmed hedges line the polished stone walls of the restored monument.
In Saint-Hilaire-du-Harcouet, the twin-towered St Hilaire Church was among the few buildings left standing. The surrounding neighbourhood has since revived, and tidy brick homes and an insurance office boast a sign saying "English spoken".
The bombings sent thousands of residents into hiding. After the Nazis were pushed out of La Haye-du-Puits in July 1944, residents cautiously walked home, pushing their belongings in wheelbarrows past the blown-out rose windows of the St Jean Church. The church shows little hint of the damage today, and well-tended orange and yellow flowers grow along its facade.
Normandy has been buffeted by battles since Roman times, and soldiers marching through Sainte-Marie-du-Mont in 1944 saw a reminder of that troubled past: a monument to townsmen killed in World War I.
Today, the monument has been updated to honour those killed in World War II, which the town hopes will be its last.
- AP
