KEY POINTS:
According to ancient traditions, King George Tupou V is now officially in charge of Tonga.
In a colourful kava ceremony hundreds of years old, the King was yesterday bestowed with the traditional title of Tu'i Kanokupolu.
It makes him the 23rd holder of that title as the head of a dynasty founded in the 17th century.
The royal kava ceremony brings no legislative or executive powers.
But in Tongan culture the ceremonial presentation of kava acknowledges the person is in charge, and in this case that means in charge of the nation.
The ceremony took place at Mala'e Pangai, the waterfront space next to the palace in Nuku'alofa, where more than 100 cooked pigs were presented.
Freshly pulled kava plants, the rich Tongan earth still clinging to their roots, were stacked in front of the pigs. More than 1000 food parcels were also laid out as gifts, the coconut leaf baskets containing traditional foods such as taro and yam or crammed with modern foods such as breakfast crackers and tinned fish.
About 200 chiefs or nobles sat on the ground to form a large circle, with the most important closest to the King.
They were wearing white and adorned with green leaves to symbolise freshness and a new leader.
At 10am, King George walked a short distance from the palace to a covered platform, a gold crown on its top, heralded by a Fijian attendant.
There were gasps from the crowd as he stumbled climbing up.
As the choreographed kava preparation (milolua) began, the kava branches were snapped off in a theatrically aggressive fashion.
The roots were then split up in a stabbing motion with a wooden spear and pounded between heavy stones with ritualistic hand and arm movements. The powdered kava was scooped up in woven mats and tipped into three large kava bowls.
Men then brought water stored in hollowed-out coconut shells.
The Herald was told they had been filled with New Zealand bottled water.
With flourishes and exaggerated movements the kava makers dramatically tossed the fibre used to strain the kava over their heads.
Chiefly descendants had ceremonial provisions laid out in front of them, in this case piles of raw pork, to highlight the kinship links of the kava circle.
A matapule, or speaking chief, announced the kava was ready to be served, with the first cup delivered to King George and then served according to rank.
The ceremony can take six hours but at the King's request it was shortened to about two hours through a faster delivery of the kava to the chiefs.
Traditional Tongan society is based on discipline and security was tight, with guards bearing wooden clubs standing around the edge of the kava circle to ensure all those watching remained seated.
One reporter was reprimanded for showing disrespect by turning her back to the King while attempting to be filmed in front of the ceremony.
Not so chastised was the young Tongan woman who sat back-on so the King's sister Princess Pilolevu could use her as a back rest.
As the ceremony concluded, King George stepped down and gave short bows left, right and centre, which drew applause and cheers.
Tongan missionary Mataele Fusitua said the event brought the King back to the people.
"That's what the kingship is based on. It helps bring everyone together."
Sosefo Havea, from Wellington, said the kava ceremony demonstrated the richness of Tongan culture.
"To witness such an historical event is quite moving."
For Auckland school student Fina Fuataimi it was her first visit to her parents' birthplace.
"I have learned how the nobles get to sit in the front and how we have to wear all these gears," she said, pointing to her traditional skirt.
Another New Zealander was learning the hard way. The Mangere man, who did not want to be named, was not allowed into the grounds because although he was tidy in trousers and shirt, he was not dressed in traditional clothes. Other Tongans - such as Mapa Malupo - had come from as far as Alaska.
"There is no place like home. The King is doing a good job of handling everything."
