Hawaii throbs with rotors.
Helicopters. Big, badass, camouflage things circle in formation, drumming like blowflies in the heat. Sometimes a fighter jet pops out of the clouds for a low pass over Waikiki before lifting a wing like a butt cheek off a cushion and passing back over Oahu's mountains. Naval ships surround the island.
The whole paradise/warzone motif, the heat and the jungle, the long boards and battleships, the coconuts and the 'copters, reminds me of that scene in Apocalypse Now.
Rimpac — the Rim of the Pacific Exercise, a maritime warfare drill — is a big deal in the naval world.
Twenty-three countries, 50-something ships and submarines, plus army and air force. In my Honolulu hotel, high-ranking officers from Canada, Japan, Mexico and the US queued for waffles and coffee precisely 90 seconds before the hotel buffet opened for action each day. Military people are morning people; infuriatingly spry.