We'd been driving for close to three hours. The sun was setting in the KwaZulu-Natal province of South Africa, and soon we'd have to give up the search.
Behind the wheel was Mariana Venter, wildlife coordinator at Thanda Safari Private Game Reserve. With an intimate knowledge of every rhino on the 14,164ha reserve, Venter had taken us to both the white and black rhinos' favourite spots. But then she abruptly stopped the vehicle. Twenty metres away was a southern white rhino and her calf standing at the edge of a wallow. The full-grown female was like something from another world - massive, stocky, prehistoric, with thick gray skin, a meaty nuchal hump, wide, square lip and powerful legs. She was beautiful.
I was taking part in Thanda's rhino-trekking experience, an add-on to its twice-daily safari trip. For an additional US$125 ($180), this up-close-and-personal excursion is designed to bring guests inside the world of its resident rhino population. As with all other rhinos in the world, they are under the constant threat of being killed by poachers for their horns.
"We had to keep her horn," Venter explained in a whisper as we followed the pair. "She needs to be able to defend her baby. But when he is grown, we will need to take it."
According to data from Save the Rhino, South Africa is home to the densest population of rhinos in the world and has seen a 9000 per cent increase in rhino poaching from 2007 to 2014. Last year, more than 1000 rhinos were killed.