Hall rescue climbers put life before glory

An Australian climber survived being abandoned in Everest's "death zone" because a commercial expedition gave up its summit chance, says a high-profile commentator.

Thomas Sjogren, a Swedish mountaineer, said a team led by American Dan Mazur gave up its summit attempt to save Lincoln Hall, who had been given up for dead.

"Considering the latest debate surrounding climbers who passed a dying David Sharp on their way to the summit of Everest ... this rescue showed a different option," he reported on his website, mounteverest.net

"In an amazing joint effort, the entire mountain stood up on their feet offering what they had, including the chance of summits."

Mazur found Hall alive 12 hours after the Australian's expedition leader ordered three Sherpas to abandon him and save themselves.

Mazur said he had expected to find the body of Hall with the remains of Sharp, the Englishman who died on May 15 in circumstances that sparked an international controversy.

Commentators from Sir Edmund Hillary down criticised climbers - including New Zealand double-amputee Mark Inglis - for failing to help Sharp after he got into trouble.

The climbers all continued their summit attempts.

But Mazur's party - which found Hall sitting in a lotus position on the edge of the precipitous Kangshung Face - roped him to the mountain and gave him oxygen, food and drink while waiting for assistance.

Mazur told Sjogren that once Hall was found, there was no question of leaving him and pressing on to the summit, even though the conditions were ideal.

"We didn't even discuss it.

"We just all felt like we knew that's what we had to do.

"How could we leave a person like that? The summit is still there and we can go back.

"Lincoln only has one life."

- NZPA