East Timorese count down to birth of a nation

2.30pm

DILI - Kneeling in the dirt, East Timorese prayed for a better future today as they counted down to the birth of their nation after a long and bloody struggle for freedom from foreign occupation.

More than 1000 Timorese flocked to the home of spiritual leader Bishop Carlos Belo for an early morning mass, held in his spacious yard near Dili's picturesque seafront.

A growing sense of excitement has enveloped the capital as workers scramble to get the normally sleepy city spruced up and heavily armed UN peacekeepers deploy to tighten security ahead of East Timor's declaration of independence at midnight (3am NZT).

Foreign leaders set to arrive through the day for ceremonies include UN secretary-general Kofi Annan, who will hand over power from the United Nations mission that has run East Timor since it voted in 1999 to break from harsh Indonesian rule.

"The spirit within us has emerged, and with that spirit our country can shine and stand alone," Belo told the worshippers, a mix of Timorese from young girls in freshly scrubbed pink dresses to wizened old women wearing traditional sarongs.

Some kneeled, others bowed their heads. But all were solemn with the memory of Indonesian control still fresh in their minds.

The UN took over the mainly Catholic territory not long after the 1999 referendum, a fateful decision that unleashed a vicious rampage by pro-Jakarta militias opposed to the move.

With backing from Indonesia's army, the militias virtually returned the former Portuguese colony to Year Zero, destroying most of its buildings, killing livestock and forcing hundreds of thousands of Timorese to flee into Indonesian West Timor.

More than 200,000 people -- a quarter of the population -- were killed by fighting, famine and disease that followed Indonesia's invasion in 1975 and during its 24 years of occupation.

Asked later what he prayed for as he shook hands with worshippers, foreign minister Jose Ramos-Horta said: "For peace. There cannot be anything more special than that."

Belo's home itself was not spared during the militia rampage, and was torched by a mob, forcing him to flee for his life.

It has since been rebuilt and on Sunday echoed to the strains of hymns being sung, the odd baby crying and the cooing of pigeons perched on a thatched roof.

Belo said he hoped the government would do its best.

But Timorese have no illusions about the future and the threat East Timor could become a forgotten backwater if president-elect Xanana Gusmao, their former guerrilla leader, fails to attract investment needed to rebuild Asia's poorest country.

Included on the guest list of dignitaries are former US president Bill Clinton, Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri and Australian prime minister John Howard.

Megawati's scheduled attendance has created a flap over Indonesia's dispatch of six naval vessels to the area as part of her visit. The ships are an uncomfortable reminder for East Timorese of Indonesia's military might and its near quarter-century presence in the territory.

Some foreign delegations from 80 nations taking part in the event have arrived, creating logistical woes such as finding them a bed and a hot shower in this steamy tropical town, nestled at the base of rugged hills that rise from near the ocean.

Poverty haunts East Timor, a nation half the size of Belgium and home to 740,000 people. Barefoot children hawk oranges in the streets as jobless youths ponder how they will ever get work when the UN accelerates its withdrawal within days.

While scores of charred homes and buildings in Dili are a reminder of the 1999 violence, the capital has rediscovered some charm with cafes dotting the waterfront.

And for Timorese, at least for one day they can celebrate their independence and nascent democracy.

"We are free. Now, we cannot be intimidated by anyone," said Justino Vieira, a 22-year-old student ambling along the seafront.

Independence ceremonies kick off at dusk at a dusty field near Dili with a three-hour mass.

They peak when Annan hands power to East Timor's parliament chief at the stroke of midnight in front of an expected 100,000 people.

Gusmao will then be sworn in as president.

Foreign donors are expected to fully support East Timor and some 5000 peacekeepers will also stay on for up to two years.

- REUTERS

Feature: Indonesia and East Timor

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