Dressing down for Italy's extra virgin oil brands

Ordinary olive oil has a higher acidity and is produced with the aid of heat or chemicals. It is lighter in colour and has less flavour. Photo / Getty Images

Seven of Italy's best-known olive oil companies are being investigated for allegedly conning consumers by passing off inferior quality olive oil as extra-virgin.

Extra-virgin oil costs, on average, about a third more than ordinary oil and is typically green-gold in colour. It is made by crushing the olives soon after they are picked and involves no chemicals or industrial refining.

Ordinary olive oil has a higher acidity and is produced with the aid of heat or chemicals. It is lighter in colour and has less flavour.

The alleged fraud was first discovered by an Italian consumer magazine in May and then investigated by the authorities. They announced this week that of 20 brands tested in the laboratory by specialists from the Italian customs agency, nine were found to be lower quality oil.

The producers caught up in the investigation include Bertolli, Santa Sabina, Primadonna and Antica Badia. The other three leading brands are Carapelli, Coricelli and Sasso.

The alleged fraud is now being investigated by prosecutors in Turin.

"The damage caused by this deceit is enormous, not just for consumers but also for the entire country and for the image of products that are made in Italy," said Rosario Trefiletti, the president of Federconsumatori, a consumer association.

Maurizio Martina, the Italian agriculture minister, said it was important for the investigation to proceed in order to "protect consumers, as well as the thousands of honest olive oil producers" in Italy.