Birthday diversions await King's approval

By THERESA GARNER in NUKU'ALOFA

A party atmosphere has swept across Nuku'alofa like a tropical storm.

There have been days of preparation for the celebration of King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV's 85th birthday today.

Traffic clogs the capital's street as thousands of visitors from Tongatapu and Tonga's outer islands converge on the royal palace on the waterfront.

The nation of 100,000 has traditionally revered and honoured its king.

Yesterday, children were running around waving flags and watching the military shows. Many school groups marched through town, singing.

The Tongan military sweltered under the midday sun perfecting impressive manoeuvres.

Displays of love and affection for the Pacific's only monarch are everywhere - decorated archways straddle the roads into town, banners on buildings wish His Majesty a long life.

Children crammed into Tonga's sports stadium for a culture day.

They laughed hysterically at the antics of a New Zealand group - the Royal New Zealand Air Force Band, all territorials, who included tricky dance moves in their performance.

Pleased, the crowd gave the band their loudest cheers.

One woman, Aki Latu, did an impromptu dance during the performance, to the bemusement of the drummers.

"I love the King so much," she said.

"I hope the King enjoys himself and is happy with the people. The same as myself."

Policeman have blocked off the capital's dusty, pot-holed streets so the royal motorcade isn't hindered on its way to events.

In the city centre, fences got a last-minute lick of paint and visitors holding bright umbrellas to shade their heads milled about.

For decades, the monarchy has basked in the international attention it receives on occasions of royal celebration.

This year is no different.

But at a time where the King possibly wants to sit on the porch of his Victorian palace looking out to sea and reflect on his life and reign, he has come under attack for trying to tighten his near-absolute rule and is facing ever-louder demands for democracy.

Today, women in the King's villages of Kolovai and Kanokupolu will wake early and start the slow cooking of pigs in umus, underground pits.

Trucks will deliver the customary banquet to the royal palace, where a vast feast will be served in a marquee.

To the casual observer, there is little to suggest people feel anything other than great devotion to the king and his nobles.