Looking for a holiday that recharges your body and mind? Lord Howe Island might be just the place. Photo / Tourism Australia
It turns out that when you book a nice place to stay and embrace exercise, nourishing food and nature, being good to yourself isn’t that bad at all, writes reluctant health freak, Tiana Templeman
“For newlyweds or nearly deads.” It’s not exactly the (unofficial) tagline of tourism commission dreams, but this has never stopped my husband and I from visiting Lord Howe Island. It’s been years since we last explored this tiny dot in the ocean off Australia’s east coast, but we know this peaceful place will be perfect for the relaxing holiday we so desperately need.
The smell of Norfolk Island pine needles and Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower towering over the southern end of the World Heritage-listed island brings back fond memories. It’s a relief to see that nothing has changed, and Lord Howe Island is as beautiful and unspoiled as we remember. We can’t wait to rediscover our favourite walking trails and snorkelling spots but first, we need groceries.
After picking up a couple of hire bicycles, we lace up our sneakers and set off on a ride to the shops. It’s then we discover that one thing has changed since our last visit. Our fitness – or lack thereof. Last time we visited the island, we were exercising regularly and going to the gym. These days, the closest we get to the gym is the Thai takeaway down the road from it.
With no way to get around except by walking or cycling, we’ll probably die of exhaustion before we get the chance to buy any food. Or hunger as we’re puffing our way to the shops so slowly, they’ll be closed by the time we get there.
Our biggest concern when choosing our accommodation shouldn’t have been how far it was from the island’s major highlights, but how many hills we’d have to climb to reach them. Our legs are already telling us there are way too many long before we get our groceries home.
With entertainment focused solely on the great outdoors, we get out and get among it the following day with a snorkelling trip and a ride up one of the island’s steepest streets to our favourite walking trail. Our aching muscles remind us how unfit we are, but it’s easy to ignore them when we’re surrounded by towering Banyan trees, birdsong and sweeping ocean views.
Choosing a destination that would improve our fitness certainly wasn’t part of our relaxing holiday plan. Our idea of being healthy usually involves drinking cocktails made with fruit juice. But we’re beginning to discover there’s a sense of achievement in trying different activities and pushing our muscles to do something more challenging than balancing on a bar stool.
All the endorphins from our daily walks and snorkelling adventures also give us a happy buzz and banish the grumpiness that sometimes crops up when we’re away. It turns out being good to yourself is not bad at all when you embrace exercise, nourishing food and nature, and switch up your holiday routine. We’re united as we cheer each other on during each new physical challenge and also sleep better than we have in years. Probably because we’re so exhausted after days spent swimming, snorkelling and exploring the island’s 20kms of trails, that it’s impossible to stay awake.
However, halfway through our holiday, our aching muscles have had enough and we relax on the beach and read for an entire day. If being healthy is about giving your body what it needs, mine needs a rest. The next morning, our muscles are stiffer than ever after our day of relaxation. Getting to our favourite beach involves a tailwind that sees us zooming along on our bikes with grins on our faces and zero effort, but battling a headwind on the way back that has us begging nature for mercy. However, our biggest battle with each activity is usually mental rather than physical.
Where did our sense of adventure go since we were last here? Back then, we were up for anything. We even climbed Mount Gower, a gruelling eight-hour guided hike that saw us pushed to our limits and in pain for days afterwards but thrilled that we had made it to the top.
At the start of this trip, we were apprehensive about even the smallest things, like exploring a different part of the reef. Sure, it was tricky to get to, but this had never stopped us before. With our sense of adventure reignited, we’re determined to give it a go, even if the scramble down a steep, rocky hill and across an even rockier shore covered in small roly-poly rocks slows us down.
When we finally arrive at the beach, it’s lucky no one is there to see us waddling across the unstable rocks in our flippers like demented penguins, laughing like lunatics as we cling to each other, trying not to fall over before we reach the ocean. The coral isn’t as good as some of the other spots around the island, but it doesn’t matter. The sense of achievement is enough.
Our time on Lord Howe Island passes all too quickly, but our improved health and fitness, sense of fun and happiness are coming home with us. We’re waiting at the tiny airport and already planning another visit when we see a brochure for the full-day hike up Mt Gower. Is it something we should do again? Thankfully, the look on my husband’s face tells me the answer is no.
Checklist
LORD HOWE ISLAND, AUSTRALIA
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Sydney with Qantas, Air NZ, LATAM and Jetstar. Qantas offers year-round flights to Lord Howe Island from Sydney, taking just under 2 hours.