Make the most of Christmas in the colder hemisphere and fly to London for a winter holiday. Photo / Getty Images
Europe’s suffocating crowds was a hot topic this summer, which is why a magical, midwinter break to London is more attractive than ever, writes Tamara Hinson
The UK’s capital doesn’t need much of the white stuff to transform into a winter wonderland – ice rink-filled parks, Christmas markets(our favourites include the annual ones held in Covent Garden and Leicester Square) and the increasingly spectacular Christmas lights which illuminate its busiest streets make it a brilliant destination for the dark days of winter. Here’s how to make the most of the festivities in England’s capital.
Day one
09:00
Central London’s Somerset House, which dates back to the 1500s and has been home to various royals (including Princess Elizabeth in the 1550s and Anne of Denmark in the 1600s), is a sprawling neoclassical mansion built around a beautiful courtyard. Located on the Strand, it’s close to London’s theatre district (in December and January, this is where you’ll find the best Christmas pantos), and is a destination in its own right, with numerous restaurants and cafés (we recommend Spring, in the former drawing room), regular guided tours and a packed calendar of events. Visit in winter for the twinkling Christmas lights and to check out Skate, the ice rink in its central courtyard. This year, it will remain in place until January 14, and there’s the ridiculously cosy rink-side Skate Lounge for warming glasses of mulled wine afterward.
Catch the tube to Hyde Park, which is one of London’s largest green spaces and has a rich history. The Rolling Stones once played by its lake, the suffragettes called for women’s rights here and Nelson Mandela took to the stage here in 2008, when the park was the setting for a concert marking his 90th birthday. The highlight is the annual Winter Wonderland event – in place until January – where highlights include an Ice Kingdom (500 tonnes of ice and snow have been used to make its various sculptures), Zippo’s Christmas Circus, an ice rink, ice bar and fairground.
13:00
Time to check in to your accommodation. For a hotel with history, it’s hard to beat Raffles London at the OWO. The OWO stands for the Old War Office, and the building dates back to 1906, when it was constructed as the new 1000-room workplace for 2500 military and government officials. Some seriously stupendous facts: the building has 26,000 tonnes of Portland stone, 25 million bricks and 20 hectares of plasterwork. Reminders of its history are everywhere (on tours led by the in-house historian, guests can see rooms in which Churchill once worked) and staff have gone all out for its first festive period - we’re particularly smitten with the forest of fairy light-adorned Christmas trees by the entrance. Touches such as the corridors’ thick berry-red drapes (inspired by the uniform of the Household Cavalry soldiers, based opposite the hotel) and the decadent warmth of the UK’s only Guerlain spa, make it a fantastic (albeit expensive) winter retreat.
London’s afternoon teas are legendary, and you’ll find some of the best at the JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. This year, the hotel has created a tribute to the popular children’s book with The Snowman Afternoon Tea, available until January 7. This limited edition extravaganza’s sandwiches and scones are delicious, but the stars of the show are the cakes: a meringue sculpted into a snowball, a ball of citrus mousse resembling the orange used for the Snowman’s nose, a miniature Christmas tree made from salted caramel and chocolate, a Snowman made from chocolate ganache and a tree stump-shaped slice of hazelnut and praline sponge cake. There’s also a Bible-like tea menu. Never sipped a cup of peach-scented Taiwanese Oriental Beauty tea or Kashmiri saffron-infused Royal Zafrani tea? Now’s your chance.
17:00
South Kensington’s Victoria and Albert Museum dates back to the 1800s and has 2.8 million items relating to everything from furniture, fashion and photography to design, theatre and performance. The entire place feels wonderfully festive, and curators go all out to highlight items with seasonal relevance. Christmas-themed gems on display include the stained glass nativity scene, which dates back to the 1550s and can be found in the rooms dedicated to the Medieval and Renaissance era; the priceless golden mistletoe brooch, which dates back to 1903 and is located in the jewellery section; and the 16th-century gold, silver and mother-of-pearl partridges in the Silver and Mosaics section.
18:00
For the ultimate seasonal selfie, head to Covent Garden and strike a pose on the gold-trimmed sleigh in the historic Market Building. Covent Garden’s Piazza, Market Building (the latter has been decorated with 40 gigantic bells, 12 giant baubles and eight festive mirror balls), Neal’s Yard and Seven Dials area have all been transformed into a Christmas village. All of the stores have had seasonal makeovers, and there will be dozens of market stalls and pop-ups - we’re especially excited about the Marketplace’s Whittard of Chelsea, which will be offering seasonal sips such as ginger snap oolong chais. For a pre-dinner tipple, head to Covent Garden’s Henrietta Hotel. Its cosy bar feels fabulously homely, and until December 23 it will be transformed into the Miracle Bar, a fabulously kitsch, Christmas-themed bar.
20:00
Another hot new hotel opening in London is the Peninsula London. For dinner with a view, head to the rooftop Brooklands restaurant, which is named after the historic racetrack in Surrey, just outside London, and pays tribute to the history of British motorsport and aviation – don’t miss the replica of Concorde that hangs from the ceiling. It’s a brilliant spot to soak up the views over London – including nearby Winter Wonderland – and the menu is all about luxurious British comfort food (think Cornish squid, Lake District lamb and Exmoor caviar).
It doesn’t get more festive than Regent St, one of London’s busiest thoroughfares. This is where you’ll find Hamley’s toy shop, with its seven storeys of fun, the capital’s sparkliest Christmas lights and its most spectacular window displays. Shout-outs should go to Liberty, the department store housed in a gabled, listed building with stunning window displays and a pine tree-filled Christmas store on the fourth floor (don’t miss the interactive screens which allow you to personalise your own baubles), and nearby Selfridges. This year, the department store’s Christmas shop is bigger than ever, and has no less than 1200 baubles (many of which are made from sustainable materials).
12:00
Time for an art fix at the Tate Modern art gallery inside Battersea Power Station, which reopened in 2022 after lying empty for 40 years (although the Tate Modern opened here in in 2000). NZ$17 billion was spent on its revamp, and it’s truly spectacular. Inside, it’s all about industrial chic – think exposed girders and metalwork which pay tribute to the building designed by Giles Gilbert Scott (creator of the UK’s iconic red telephone boxes) in 1929. The power station’s control rooms were meticulously restored, and one is now a bar. It’s one of many businesses, which include dozens of other bars, boutiques and restaurants, inside the former power station.
13:00
For lunch, head to Arcade, a brilliant food hall on the first floor of Battersea Power Station. The best bit? Although diners can order from numerous menus – there’s everything from Taiwanese bao and Japanese sushi to fried chicken and Mexican tacos – it’s all about table service here. Simply scan the QR code, browse the menus and your food will be delivered to your table.
15:00
Check into the Royal Lancaster London hotel, next to Hyde Park. Just a stone’s throw from Knightsbridge (where you’ll find Harrods and its stunning window displays), the hotel is known for its Christmas celebrations, which include festive afternoon teas and Christmas menus at most of its restaurants. Feeling flush? Splash out on a Winter Wonderland Park Suite – you’ll get a night in a beautiful suite decked out with stunning Christmas decorations, including a Christmas tree.
17:00
For some last-minute Christmas shopping, head to the Christmas in Leicester Square market in the heart of the theatre district. You’ll find dozens of fairylight-bedecked miniature chalets selling crafts, seasonal snacks and mulled wine, and the event’s market stalls also spill over into nearby Trafalgar Square, where the pièce de resistance is London’s most famous Christmas tree, a yearly gift from Norway.
19:00
Finish your visit to London with dinner at the boutique-style Laslett Hotel in Notting Hill. At the core of this design-focused hotel is a burning passion for all thing sustainable, and this extends to the food served at the Henderson Bar and Kitchen. We suggest ordering the salmon fishcakes or the Harissa chicken. Feel brave? Dine outside on the hotel’s heated terrace, where there’s no shortage of blankets to ward off winter chills.