Sometimes you’ve just got to dip your toe in - and trust the behemoth whale shark is as shy as they say and won’t take a bite, writes Carson Bluck
Slipping into the warm blue water, the excited chatter and militant “go go go” of the instructor was replaced by the eerie silence of emptiness. Although I soon realised “empty” wasn’t entirely accurate...
Containing over 700 species of fish, the Ningaloo Reef runs along 260km of Western Australia’s coastline. Of these 700 species of fish, one takes the cake as the world’s largest. The whale shark.
When people hear the word ‘”shark”, they generally think of Jaws, so why would you want to swim with one? Well for starters, unless you’re a micro-organism, you have nothing to worry about. Swimming with these gentle giants is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and a must-see if you’re making the trip across the Ditch.
Whale Sharks can grow up to an astonishing 18m in length. Imagine being in the water, eye to eye with these magnificent creatures, as they glide through the water; so close you could reach out and touch them (don’t, as they are protected, and you might get a telling off).
During the initial practice snorkel close to the coastline, you’ll see an array of colourful coral reefs, tropical fish, and other fascinating marine species. The boat will then take you out to deeper water as you wait for the spotter plane to find a whale shark.
The reason for the spotter plane is due to Exmouth’s commitment to responsible tourism and the preservation of the Ningaloo Reef’s marine ecosystem. The local tour operators are incredibly enthusiastic about sustainable practices to ensure there is minimal disruption to the natural behaviour of the whale sharks.
Once the plane has spotted a whale shark, it’s “Thunderbirds are Go!” The photographer jumps into the water and starts to position the first group into a line, awaiting the 18-tonne (approximately) sea goliath to glide past.
I know what you are thinking - it’s just a big fish - but the first moment you see this thing the initial fear of “holy crap it’s a shark” remains “holy crap it’s a shark”. However, as I swam alongside these majestic creatures, I felt a sense of unity with the ocean, an appreciation for its immense beauty, and a deep-rooted desire to protect it for future generations.
And those feelings come again and again and again, as you stare at this graceful giant gliding through the water without a care in the world.
As the group awkwardly waddles back onto the boat, barely getting to take in what we just saw, our guide throws us back in (not literally) and we spend the next four hours jumping in and out of the boat watching these majestic beasts just swim on by, doing their own thing.
Hours feel like minutes and then it’s time to head back to shore. So, we jump in one more time and then it’s back on the boat, the promise of food just a short ride away.
Exmouth Escape Resort
So, you and your partner have taken the kids on a trip to Exmouth to swim with whale sharks. Exmouth Escape Resort is the place for you. With its 17 three-bedroom (and two-bathroom) self-contained villas, 23 two-bedroom two-bathroom apartments and 23 one-bedroom apartments, as well as its on-site restaurant Whalers, and pool, you have heaps of variety at this 4-star accommodation - not to mention Ningaloo Reef at your doorstep. This place is a great base of operations for you to experience Exmouth’s town, the beach, restaurants and pubs, all within walking distance. Plus, the quiz night at Froth Craft Brewery on Sunday is a good hoot.
Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef
This one is a little more on the bougie side, but worth it if you want to unplug. Nestled in the dunes of Western Australia’s Cape Range National Park, Sal Salis is a luxury eco-retreat. Boasting impressive views of the expansive Ningaloo Reef, Sal Salis blends into its surroundings both with the colour of its tents, and its minimal impact on the environment.
Sal Salis takes the idea of glamping and turns it up to 11. Almost 100 per cent of the camp’s power is generated via solar panels to ensure a primarily clean source of energy and to preserve the peace and quiet of this pristine area.
Sal Salis operates under a license agreement with the Department of Parks and Wildlife in Western Australia, in what is a partnership between National Parks and private sector tourism. The aim is to conserve the region’s natural environment through educational and environmentally sound tourism operations.
The whale sharks usually arrive in early March and stay until late July or early August. March and April offer hot weather with special events like coral spawning and baby turtles hatching. Late May and June bring manta rays and humpback whales to join the whale sharks. July is considered the best month by locals.
If you are travelling from NZ, fly from NZ to Perth and spend the night there before an onward flight to Learmonth Airport. That way you get to experience Western Australia’s biggest city with its spectacular food and nightlife, as well as one of its 19 beaches where it’s easy to soak up the sun and relax.
The first thing to note is a big one... know how to swim. The guides are there for your safety but will not let you in the water if you can’t swim. This may seem obvious but there were two people on our boat who had signed all the forms only to say “I can’t swim” as they were about to jump in the water. Needless to say, their “swim” was cut short.
Secondly, be respectful of the environment and the animals. It’s an unparalleled experience to swim in the presence of these gentle giants and the saying “leave only footprints, take only memories” really does come into effect.
On that note, number three: when you’re in the water don’t just stare at your GoPro screen “trying to get the best shot”. Take a moment for yourself and just admire what you’re witnessing.
And lastly, the swim is quite “active” so be prepared for your legs to get a bit of a workout.
GETTING THERE
Fly nonstop with Air NZ from Auckland to Perth in 7.5 hours. An onward flight to Learmonth Airport with Qantas takes 2 hours.
DETAILS
The five-star Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva offers the perfect blend of old and new.