Samoa's approach to tourism is laid-back, with a focus on enjoying time together, perfect for families looking to unwind. Photo / Samoa Tourism Authority
Good news if you’re looking for your next family holiday with teenagers, there are no doors to slam on the idyllic beaches of Samoa, writes Sarah Cameron.
Travelling to the Pacific is de rigueur for Kiwi families during school holidays. Armed with memories of our last Pacific stay at a jam-packed, noisy resort in Fiji, we knew that this time we wanted somewhere more teen-friendly, devoid of hordes of primary schoolers dominating the pool; somewhere where relaxation and action are found in equal measure.
On the recommendations of friends, we book 10 days in Samoa. Not knowing much about the country except for mandatory Googling of what the weather is like (amazing), it turns out to be the best holiday our family of three has had in years.
In Samoa, nothing feels familiar. Fiji and Rarotonga are slick in comparison, a more polished holiday experience gained from generations refining their offerings. There’s nothing like home here. It’s free-spirited and a bit rough around the edges, but that’s a big part of its attraction.
A relative newcomer to the tourism scene, Samoa is a place where the concept of time is loose and the priority is on togetherness. It’s hot, lush and relaxed. And it turns out, the perfect place for teenagers to switch off and slow down, take a break from thinking about NCEA or their future plans, and decompress.
We arrive in Apia and it’s an hour’s drive to Saletoga Sands Resort on Upolu’s southern border, Samoa’s prettiest stretch of coastline. Owned by Kiwi couple Gavin and Lou, accommodation is in private fales, each with its own walled outdoor shower. The scent of the frangipani and the soaring palms above make showering a truly heavenly experience. Designed and built by Gavin, the fales are intentionally cool, each facing the pool or the beach. All are surrounded by lush tropical planting, palms of every kind and the most impressive, brightly coloured bromeliads and ginger plants. Gardening is a national sport in Samoa, and Saletoga’s gardens are as carefully tended as the ones in the numerous villages we drive through – pristine and proudly on display.
It doesn’t take long to don the lavalavas (sarongs) we find on our beds and recline on loungers looking out to the ocean, cocktails in hand. Gavin handpicks his suppliers – many from New Zealand – and the food is some of the best we’ve had. The suckling pig cooked in a traditional umu at the Fia Fia cultural night is a highlight, as are the Angus burgers. Saletoga’s swim-up bar should have its own Instagram page – the margaritas are legendary. It’s the place where we meet new friends - a family group from Northland and a collection of friends with their teenagers from Auckland. People are in full relaxation mode, so striking up a conversation is easy.
At Saletoga, younger children are taken care of with their own playground and pool area, and there’s a noticeable absence of lifeguards, kids clubs and organised activities, meaning parents of littlies are very much on duty.
‘Fa’a Samoa’ or the ‘Samoan way of life’, suits the older kids to a tee. Our 17-year-old Max spends his days with new-found friends (met over a ball throwing session in the pool) snorkelling off the beach, paddle boarding, swimming in the warm waters of the resort’s lagoon, sliding into the ocean on sea slides or sunbathing on the pontoon. There’s space and time for independence. The evenings are balmy, perfect for hanging out in the fale at the end of the jetty watching the sunset and listening to music while parents gather on a deck or at one of the many oceanfront bars for a drink and a chat. Many of the parents we meet are return visitors to Samoa, who, like us, have fallen in love with its wild charm.
I chat to groups of teens and discover a common thread about why they love Samoa – not only the heat, crystal water and great food, it’s a place where they can free-range. The resort is large but not overly so, with the lagoon safely protected from the open ocean by a reef. Even on a Pacific island, staying connected is hugely important. The resort’s Wi-Fi only works in the reception area, so it becomes a social hub with couches full of teenagers (and the odd adult) catching up on their socials and forging new friendships.
Lazy days are spent between the pool and the sea, literally a few steps away from each other. On other days we explore some of Samoa’s natural attractions. To Sua Trench is an iconic image in Samoa’s tourist brochures and lives up to its reputation. Essentially two huge sinkholes connected by a lava tube and only accessible by a steep, rickety ladder, the reward is swimming in a 30-metre deep trench in some of the most crystal clear water on the planet, surrounded by lush jungle. My boys love it.
Samoa is often referred to as the ‘land of the waterfalls’. Surrounded by rainforest, they’re a spectacular place to escape the humidity and cool off. The most popular include Fuipisia, Sopo-aga Falls, Togitogiga, Afu Aau and Papapapai-Uta. There are also walks and hikes of every kind, from longer guided trails to shorter walks signposted on the roadside.
We drive to the giant clam sanctuary in Savaia, a marine protected area. No one prepares you for how beautiful the clams are. But the highlight for me is snorkelling with the turtles. While the resorts organise tours to the sanctuary, you’re pretty much on your own once you get there, so being a strong swimmer is a must. A better way to experience it, especially with younger children, is with the local village who for WST20 (approx. NZ$12) each, provide a guide, snorkelling gear and flotation devices.
We use the one day of stormy weather to drive across the island to the northern coast and spend the day in the capital, Apia. Brunch at the fabulous Nourish café is followed by a walk around the city and a visit to Fugalei market. It’s steamy, busy and noisy and we love it. We’re happy with our purchase of pawpaw and a sundress for a little friend back home.
We visit the Robert Louis Stevenson museum, a plantation home surrounded by manicured gardens built by the famous author and subsequent home to several government administrations. We arrive around lunchtime, a rookie mistake as everyone is on their lunch break – eating together is encouraged here. However, the lack of signage and descriptions of the home’s treasures means we walk around aimlessly. A guided tour would have improved our experience.
Back on the coast, we drive down to Lalomanu Beach. It’s absolutely spectacular, home to the Taufua beach fales, voted in the Top 10 Beach Destinations in the World by Lonely Planet. The bright blue and yellow huts are sophisticated enough to be comfortable, where you can happily snooze the day away or sleep the night. We opt not to stay but dine at the open-air restaurant next door.
During our tens days holidaying in Samoa, we hardly scratched the surface of this beautiful country. We’re already planning our return where we’ll explore more of Upolu and the other large island, Savai’i.
Samoa, you’re a rough diamond, a joyful place to unwind and reconnect with family, and the three of us can’t wait to see you again.
Be one of 2000 worshippers at a Sunday service at this eye-catching Cathedral in Apia. A must-do for the singing alone.
An uninhabited island off the south-eastern tip of Upolu and only a ten-minute boat ride from the mainland. A great place for swimming, turtle spotting and snorkelling. The island’s calm and shallow water makes it ideal for younger kids.
Samoa’s surf breaks have been described as having “the beauty of Indonesia and the power of Hawaii”. Get a local guide to take you out – going on your own is not recommended as you need to go beyond the reef to get to the huge wave sets. For confident surfers, it’s bliss.
For more things to see and do in Samoa, visit samoa.travel
When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.