Sailing through the Marlborough Sounds was one of the highlights of a 17-day Australia and New Zealand voyage on Azamara Quest. Photo / Supplied
“It’ll be like a new New Zealand every day!” With that, the Teen invites herself on my upcoming trip, a 17-day cruise aboard Azamara Quest: embarking in Melbourne, stopping in Sydney, then cruising the coastal highlights of Aotearoa. I’m dubious she’s the right demographic but figure we could use some quality time together, so it’s decided. Azamara says it’s dedicated to “Destination Immersion experiences”, but what does this mean? And what sets Azamara apart from other boutique cruise lines? Perhaps I can spell it out.
A is for anticipation.
During a personal annus horribilis, the thought of this cruise on the horizon never failed to cheer me up. Even discovering ahead of sailing that some sweet spots are off the itinerary due to hull-cleaning issues fails to dampen my expectations, which are maintained throughout the voyage via Captain Tysses’ jovial intercom updates, and The Insider (a nightly newsletter delivery to our cabin featuring the following day’s programme, excursions, entertainment and restaurant offerings) ensuring plenty to look forward to.
Z is for zzzzz.
The incredibly comfortable beds in our air-conditioned veranda stateroom are made up with luxurious linens and plush pillows, ensuring a sonorous slumber at the end of each busy day. The sitting area has a couch, coffee table, desk and fresh flowers; the veranda with its floor-to-ceiling windows makes gazing out to sea a delight, whether inside or out.
There’s plenty of storage space for the two of us, split between the wardrobe, shelving, bedside tables and safe, while the compact bathroom is well-stocked with toiletries. We’ve fluffy robes, slippers and a hairdryer; an Azamara tote bag, perfect for poolside, is helpfully added (and makes a great souvenir), and there’s an umbrella for inclement weather. The wall-mounted TV has a selection of movies to suit all tastes, and also broadcasts the live shows and lectures onboard so you don’t have to miss a thing, and there are multiple plug outlets and USB ports for charging devices. Meantime our attentive attendant Mohan keeps our cabin spotless, the minibar fully stocked with our favourite thirst-quenchers, and sweet treats with our evening turndowns. After every trip ashore, the warm “Welcome home” greeting rings true - we really do feel like this space is our own sanctuary.
A is for all-inclusive.
For many, expensive add-ons can be a barrier to cruising, but Azamara removes this with plentiful amenities included in your fare such as gratuities, shuttle bus services while in port, and a self-service laundry; plus restaurant or in-room dining (more on this shortly). Most drinks are included too, including bottled water, select spirits, beer and wine (work your way through the A-Z cocktail list if you dare!). This teetotaller traveller appreciates the zero-alcohol beer and mocktails on offer, while the Teen is in soft drink heaven. Also included: the world-class service from the Azamara crew, their faultless attention to detail and genuine warmth reinforcing the idea that Quest is a boutique hotel at sea.
You’ll pay extra for organised shore excursions, Wi-Fi (which can be slow), spa and salon treatments (the Teen is treated to a pedicure), and premium drinks, but it’s entirely possible to leave the credit card at home and still have a great time.
M is for Maggie, and many other new friends we make.
Sociable Sydneysider Maggie, like many others aboard Quest, is an active retiree and a cruise veteran, and we bond over our shared breast cancer journey. The relatively small number of people on board (540 on our trip, with a maximum capacity of 702) hail from Belgium and Brazil, Canada and Korea and 10 other nations besides, with the majority from the US and Australia. Conversations are struck up at mealtimes, poolside, and during on-shore excursions. Norwegians Graham and Kari are on a back-to-back cruise, and their enthusiasm for the Azamara is infectious. It’s no surprise they’ve already booked their next cruise for later this year.
While children are welcome on board Azamara, they are not really catered to - the Teen is the youngest here by several decades, though this means she’s doted on by those who are missing their grandchildren. There’s organised meet-ups for LGBQT+ guests; others for singles and solo travellers. By the end of 17 days, our ship family and their now familiar faces have morphed into Facebook friends.
This jewel of New Zealand tourism is our favourite shore excursion (especially after other anticipated gems like Eden in New South Wales, Milford Sound, Akaroa and the Bay of Islands are switched out at short notice). Hearing gasps from fellow passengers at the golden sands, turquoise waters and fiord-like hills, this Kiwi’s chest puffs out as if I’d created the magnificence myself. Our seven-hour trip includes sailing aboard a Vista Cruise catamaran with a picnic-style lunch; an easy three-kilometre guided loop walk through Kanuka Forest to Pitt Head, an ancient pā site; and enough time for a glorious dip at the stunningly beautiful Anchorage Bay before returning “home”.
There’s a number of excursions to choose from in each port, and with overnights in Sydney and Tauranga (plus late nights in several other ports), there’s plenty of time to explore, and something to suit every interest and fitness level. We enjoy Sydney’s Taronga Zoo, with its million-dollar views, where we see platypuses and gorillas for the first time; a wildlife discovery cruise from Dunedin to Taiaroa Head (the albatross colony and basking seals almost as impressive as captain-cum-guide Buddy’s commentary); and marvelling at Ngāi Tahu Māori rock art at both Te Ana in Timaru, and at limestone caves in Ōpihi, a little-known national taonga. In ports where we have nothing organised, the complimentary shuttles make it easy to explore on our own. We walk, photograph, shop, and even make impromptu visits to family and friends - one of the perks of travelling around your own country.
R is for - well, R & R!
Despite the attractions ashore, there’s plenty of time to enjoy the ship, and plenty of areas in which to do it. Key for the Teen is deck 9, with its pool and adjoining twin spa pools, and the pièce de résistance: a self-serve frozen yoghurt station with a dazzling selection of toppings. Reclining on a daybed here is our favourite way to while away a sunny afternoon at sea, drink and book in hand. No need to take up valuable suitcase space with a hefty tome either: upstairs in the Drawing Room, a well-stocked library has something to satisfy everyone. In less clement weather, we tend to tuck ourselves in the Living Room’s high-backed wing chairs (“like purple thrones” observes the Teen), looking forward over the ocean waves and emerging occasionally to take part in the regular trivia contests.
At the very top of the ship, the sundeck provides a stunning if breezy place to take in port arrivals and sailaways - leaving Sydney is a particular highlight as we sail under the Harbour Bridge (another of the advantages of a smaller ship), scaring the bejesus out of bridge-climbers as our captain blasts the horn before we cruise past the Opera House. We take unobstructed shots of a magnificent Marlborough Sounds, a steaming Whaakari/White Island, and a bustling Mount as we berth right next to it. And seated on our veranda, gazing at seemingly empty ocean is twice rewarded by magical displays from large pods of dolphins, who leap alongside long enough for us to take some snaps.
Beyond our favourite haunts, the well-equipped gym provides a workout with a view (along with a steam room), and includes numerous group classes, while the Card Room exercises the brain with games and puzzles (the daily crossword becomes part of my mornings) and In-Touch houses computers for those without their own Wi-Fi. I never see the jogging track free of circling bodies getting their steps in (though I never see anyone actually jogging on it, to be fair), and some game guests even try their hand at table tennis - trying to keep the ball from going overboard is a workout like no other. There’s also the Den for virtually travelling the world, and several tucked-away outdoor seating areas to enjoy the at-sea solitude or soak up the sun.
There are so many entertainment options it’s impossible to attend them all, from sunrise yoga on the upper deck to the late-night disco hosted by DJ Scott. By night, The Cabaret Lounge provides the perfect backdrop for Signature Shows with Azamara’s multi-talented performers; live bands, and special guests: we are graced by an Opera Australia alumni, a virtuoso violinist, a Kiwi comedian and, in a cruise highlight judging by the enthusiastic response, a cultural performance from Te Whānau-ā-Apanui (who just weeks later will take out the kapa haka crown at Te Matatini). The audience participation segment brings the house down: while our new friends’ poi and pūkana skills need some work, the joy is written all over their faces. By day, the same venue offers pre-destination enrichment talks, or true crime lectures, hosted by guest experts.
At-sea days understandably offer the widest entertainment options: there are watercolour classes, beginner bridge lessons, cooking demos, zen colouring, women’s wellness with mini-spa treatments, mini putt and ten-pin bowling challenges, and more.
One morning, I find myself under the charming tutelage of entertainers Kimmi and Apollo at a jewellery class. The vast array of shimmering beads, colourful gems and cute charms turns me into a magpie; the Teen is so impressed by the necklace and earrings I create that she comes to the next class, making matching bracelets for herself and her big sister - priceless mementos of our time aboard Azamara Quest. The Quest’s boutique shops offer more upmarket baubles, and a handy range of incidentals you may have forgotten to pack.
But as anyone who has ever cruised knows, the main pastime on any ship is dining and imbibing, and once again we are spoiled for choice. With fresh ingredients, careful preparation by the 60 chefs and cooks on board, and a variety of menu choices, Azamara offers a choice of six distinctive dining options, including room service. Windows Restaurant is our go-to for breakfast and buffet dinners; its adjoining Patio beckons us at lunchtime with its casual al fresco vibe; Mosaic makes delicious specialty coffees and teas (with tasty snacks) at any time; and Discoveries with its open seating and world-class cuisine is truly memorable for dinner - the Teen will remember sampling her first duck dish here. Each restaurant has plentiful plant-based options, and dishes can also be ordered through room service using handy QR codes on our daily Insider missive.
In addition, there are two specialty restaurants (a small surcharge applies): Aqualina for sumptuous Italian-inspired fare, and Prime C which favours steak and seafood dishes, and whose rich wood-panelled decor gets my vote for the most inviting dining space.
There are several bars too, perfect places to meet up - or meet your favourite new cocktail - and enjoy the banter from well-travelled bartenders.
When we don’t have an early start in port, our favourite indulgence becomes breakfast in our stateroom; it’s always delivered promptly, with a white tablecloth to transform our table (whether on our veranda, or in our cabin) -- a morning banquet to savour along with the view. You can also order sweet or savoury afternoon teas to enjoy in private.
Lastly, but not least, there’s White Night, a spectacular signature event held once per cruise. Berthed in Nelson, we get our glam on and don our best white attire, while the crew get busy transforming the pool deck into a glittering backdrop for a truly special evening. Officers step behind mini-kitchens serving up delectable dishes; bartenders turn alchemists and pour (literally) smoking cocktails at our request; the band plays on and the dancing begins; the drinks flow, the white-clad guests glow, and the party moves up to the Living Room when all the feasting is done. A night to remember for all aboard.
A is for AzAmazing Evening.
A complimentary offering on each Azamara cruise, this private and bespoke off-ship event promises to deliver “an authentic travel moment to bring you closer to your destination, its culture and its people”. For us, it’s Wellington’s Symphony By The Sea. We’re all bused to the Opera House with military precision, plied with bubbly and nibbles, and treated to a sublime performance by Orchestra Wellington and the Pasifika-infused Signature Choir, with a mix of well-known opera overtures alongside popular and traditional Pacific Island songs. The lush harmonies of the choir in particular move this guest to tears, and looking around I know I’m not alone. Even the Teen rates this as a trip highlight. AzAmazing indeed.
Lorna Riley hosts Coast’s Days show from 9am-3pm. thecoast.net.nz
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: AZAMARA
A negative Covid test is required prior to embarkation only where governments require this - at the time of our journey, Australia did, but check requirements for your destinations before you travel
A travel adaptor is a must as outlets are US/European - add a small powerboard so you can charge all your devices from this
Dress is less formal than on some other cruise lines - smart casual takes you to most events. Make sure to take warm clothing and a raincoat for inclement weather
Excursions fill quickly - book these prior to your trip to avoid disappointment
Spa treatments are priced in US$ and also attract an 18 per cent surcharge, which can lead to credit card shock. Again, appointments fill fast so get in quick