Slovenia is the perfect destination for Kiwi travellers looking for an off-the-beaten-path European adventure, from Ljubljana’s historic streets to Lake Bled’s emerald waters. Photo / 123rf
Slovenia is the perfect destination for Kiwi travellers looking for an off-the-beaten-path European adventure, from Ljubljana’s historic streets to Lake Bled’s emerald waters. Photo / 123rf
It’s underrated and largely under-visited, especially by Kiwi travellers, which is why we should all keep our eye on Europe’s latest up-and-coming destination – Slovenia, writes Kate Wickers
I decide to scale the 375-metre hill on foot, rather than take the funicular, that leads to Ljubljana’s castle as the path is leafy green and winds gently, giving teasing glimpses through the tree canopy of the views I’ll enjoy at the top. The castle dates from the 16th century and highlights include the Chapel of St George (older still, dating from 1489) for its frescoes, and watchtower, where, from the rooftop balcony (reached by 95 steps up a spiralling wrought-iron staircase), I take in the Slovenian capital’s full grandeur over red-roofed houses, church spires, and cobbled streets that run to the Ljubljanica river, where boats ferry tourists on pleasure cruises. From up here, I can see why Ljubljana has a reputation of being one of Europe’s greenest capitals, hugged as it is by thick forests that stretch to the Kamnik mountains, but its green credentials run deeper than surface level. It won the accolade of Europe’s green capital in 2016 and a National Geographic World Legacy Award for the example it sets in the Balkans for looking after the environment. Set against the castle walls, Bistro Grad in Vino is a lovely spot for watching the sunset and enjoying a much-underrated Slovenian wine flight (it’s a little-known fact that you’ll find some of the best merlot in the world here), where four glasses of wine cost just €16 ($28).
Slovenia's capital Ljubljana has strong credentials in protecting the environment. Photo / 123rf
Hotel April 1550 is a boutique hotel that opened last year after a seven-year restoration of a 500-year-old building that once housed the families of cobblers, potters, and winemakers in the Old Town. The eight rooms, all painted a chalky white, are simply but stylishly furnished with locally-made furniture, which lets the architecture do the talking – exposed beams and bricks, wooden ceilings, stone floors, and original frescoes feature. At breakfast I get a sense of how important authenticity is to owner Natasa, as she talks me through the breakfast buffet. “Everything is sourced locally, from the cold meats to the breads, which is from the artisan bakery just around the corner,” she tells me, pointing to something called buhteljni, light, fluffy buns filled with a plum compote. I tuck into this, and a homemade granola topped with first-of-the-season blackberries and local honey - beekeeping in Slovenia is a centuries-old tradition.
In 1921, local architect Joze Plecnik decided Ljubljana wasn’t quite unique enough and added extraordinary embellishments to existing bridges and buildings. The most notable example is Triple Bridge, which Plecnik adorned with balustrades and lamps and added two pedestrian-only bridges. On Saturdays, you can take a tour of the National & University Library – thought of as his greatest legacy - but on other days, so as not to disturb the students, you’ll have to make do with its grand black-marble foyer, and colonnaded staircase (don’t miss the unique horse-head doorknobs).
The Triple Bridge in Ljubljana was redesigned by local architect Joze Plecnik, who added balustrades and lamps and converted two bridges for pedestrian use. Photo / 123rf
On Fridays, during summer months, the Odprta Kuhna outside food market gives a nice introduction to Slovenian cuisine, with a smattering of international offerings. The abundance of pork ribs roasting over hot charcoals, and the variety of sausages on offer (try the Kranjska to be traditional) is proof enough that meat plays a key role in the national diet. Vegetarian options include the mushroom-based menu from The Fungalist and struklji, cheese dumplings flavoured with chives.
Food festival Odprta Kuhna runs every Friday from mid-March to October. The festival is very popular among tourists and Slovenians alike. Photo / 123rf
Bars and restaurants flank the river in the centre, and this is where the liveliest buzz is after dark, when revellers drink local Lasko beer and views are to bridges floodlit in green, and historic buildings atmospherically lit with spotlights. Breg is a stalwart on the dining scene, as popular with locals as tourists, for classics such veal shanks and cowboy-style T-bone steaks. Tucked just behind the eastern bank of the river, the Old Town (which quietens down come 11pm in respect for residents), is a less tourist-heavy scene. The three long squares of Mestni, Stari and Gornji all lead into one another, and contain the city’s oldest baroque buildings. For a pre-dinner drink, pull up a chair outside Vida, which specialises in 100% natural wines, then dine on salt crusted sea bass or duck confit with a raspberry cream at Restaurant Valvas’or.
Ljubljana's Old Town has three long squares with the city's oldest baroque buildings and quietens down by 11 pm for residents' sake. Photo / 123rf
The next day, from the Butchers Bridge I take a 50-minute river cruise with Barka Lea (arrive 10 minutes early to bag seats on the bow), to float beneath the city’s many bridges. Of these, the Dragon Bridge is an Art Nouveau beauty, guarded by four fire-breathing beasts. Once past the Cobbler’s Bridge (where shoemakers traded in the Middle Ages to avoid paying taxes), the beauty of the riverbanks unfolds, where locals sprawl with picnics under weeping willows and deckchairs and bookcases, filled with books to borrow, are found – part of a lovely initiative called Reading Under the Trees with an aim to provide access to books for all.
A statue of Prometheus by famous Slovenian sculptor Jakov Brdar on the Butchers bridge, over the river Ljubljanica. Photo / 123rf
Lake Bled lies just 55km to the west from Ljubljana, with the highest peaks of the Julian Alps as its backdrop, and combined with the capital makes for an idyllic twin-stay. For anyone with a love of wild swimming, the clear waters of this emerald-green lake are the biggest draw, which stays at a constant 20C year-long thanks to thermal springs. The whole town is postcard-perfect, with a castle perched impossibly high on a rocky outcrop above the lake and the Church of the Assumption sitting pretty on Bled Island, looking every inch the stuff of fables. Couples come from all over Slovenia to tie the knot here and tradition dictates that the groom must carry the bride up the 99 stone steps that lead to the 15th-century church. The novel invitation is to ring the wishing bell, which hangs from a rope before the altar and sounds out across the water.
The Church of the Assumption on Bled Island is famous for its wishing bell, which visitors ring to make their wishes. Photo / 123rf
Trading off its glamorous past as Slovenia’s greatest luxury hotel, Grand Hotel Toplice is a little tired these days (in bedrooms expect wooden parquet floors that creak like boards on a ship and very dated furnishings). However, what remains five-star is the romance of its location, perched on the lakeside with views that are impossible to drag your eyes from, and a private lido to swim from. They also have a fleet of small wooden boats that guests can use to row to Bled Island (an hour’s round trip, plus time for exploring). If you’re not feeling energetic, you can opt to be rowed gondola-style on punts, for hire around the shore.
Early morning I walk the lake’s 6km perimeter, taking a detour up the Ojstrica trail, a short but steep climb up a hill on the west bank that delivers me to a rock-riddled viewpoint. You could lose days to boating, swimming, and hiking just in Bled (and I do) but there are a few nearby beauty spots that shouldn’t be missed. Vintgar Gorge is one, just 5km out of town, where I don a hard hat and follow a wooden walkway (first built in 1893, though regularly maintained) bolted to the rock face, while underneath me frothy, menthol-hued water rushes. Another day I head 30km to Lake Bohinj, which, although not receiving anything like the attention that Bled does, is equally beautiful and an epicentre for wild camping.
Lake Bohinj, 30km from Bled, is ideal for wild camping and outdoor activities, yet less crowded than Bled. Photo / 123rf
Back lakeside in Bled, I dine on local trout on the terrace of the casual Park Restaurant and look to where fishermen cast lines for catfish that, once photographed, are thanked for their time and then gently lowered back to the water. Mother ducks, with chattering ducklings underwing, sit in congenial rows on the shore, as a gentle breeze stirs the lake to a ripple. The church bell peels out from Bled Island as if to mark the day’s end, just as the sun slips behind the castle on the hill, and there’s no doubt that I’m, as the Slovenian saying goes, ziveti kot pticek na veji (living like a bird on a branch), meaning wonderfully carefree.
Vintgar Gorge, near Bled, has a wooden walkway from 1893 with stunning views of menthol-hued waters. Photo / 123rf
Checklist
Ljubljana, Slovenia
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport with two stopovers, flying Singapore Airlines and Lufthansa, or Singapore Airlines and Swiss Air.
