Broken River's Cheese Roll is a snowy twist on the world's oddest sport. Photo / Richie Goldsbury, Broken River Ski Area
Introducing nine unusual New Zealand snow sports and winter destinations for skiers and non-skiers alike, by Thomas Bywater
New Zealand is alone in the Pacific Ocean as an island of snow sports. Our mighty maunga are home to the only glaciers for 3000km in any direction and the world’s only alpine parrot.
The Southern Alps, the Tiritiri Moana that divides the oceans, are a magical and improbable snow trap that stands out of the Tasman Sea. Each winter they catch around 2m of the white stuff and up to 1.7 million skier days, from mostly Kiwi and Australian skiers.
But there are plenty of options for winter trips beyond the big fields, even non-skiers can enjoy.
Broken River is a locals’ favourite and one of the “Selwyn Six” - a collection of Canterbury club ski fields. It’s also home to several “novelties” you’ll not come across on other Kiwi ski slopes. These include infamous nutcracker rope tows (snowboarders beware!) and the Southern Hemisphere’s only funicular ski lift.
However the annual Cheese Roll is an event you don’t need to be a skier to enjoy. The downhill race after a 3kg roll of cheese is a snowsport that even spectators get a kick out of.
The snow field bills itself as “playground of the gods”, and this end-of-season event lives up to that fun and games description. At 1800m above sea level, the highest game of curling in the country is held on Olympus Tarn close to Lake Coleridge in Canterbury, not far from Christchurch and the Mount Hutt ski field.
While on-site accommodation day visitors are welcome and fancy dress is encouraged.
The North Island’s most famous alpine root vegetable turns 40 this year. There are several events scheduled for June to mark the milestone for the giant carrot and the beginning of the snow season.
On 1 June, at Ohakune Junction, near the giant fibreglass carrot is being thrown a party in green and orange, then on the 22nd Ohakune Mardi Gras promises to be even more colourful. Headlined by Netsky, the winter weekend festival is also heading to Queenstown.
With the local ski field under new ownership by Pure Turoa Limited, there’s plenty to celebrate this year.
The Slush Cup - Nelson’s Rainbow Ski Area
St Arnaud is a cup-half-full kind of place when it comes to snow. No event demonstrates this better than the annual end-of-season Slush Cup.
When others might head home, the Rainbow Ski Area turns the slushy sticky snow on the lower slopes into an event. They go out with a splash.
Every year the slopes, 80km south of Nelson, dig a water-filled ditch into which visiting skiers are challenged to cross… at speed. Last year saw skiers aged 6 to 60 skimming across the pond. With little time to practise, the approach is sink or swim. However, it draws a large crowd of participants and spectators.
Snowsports’ answer to Easy Rider, the low-seated snow scooters are a French innovation. Yooners may not be suave or stylish but they come with shock absorbers on their seats. A casual alternative to ski or snowboarding, they’re perfectly at home en piste and a welcome break for anyone with burning calves from too many ski sits.
Available for hire from the Queenstown iSite, Coronet Peak and Remarkables Ski Fields.
Easy on the legs, kind on the bum. What’s not to like?
No mountains, no problem. Queenstown Snowmobiles offers a winter motorsport with a difference. High on the snowy plateau, the one-and-a-half-hour snowmobile safari allows guests to roam as far as the eye can see.
The outfit also offers New Zealand’s only heli-snowmobiling experience, in partnership with Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters. It’s a combo so obvious you wonder why you haven’t seen it anywhere else. Although that does bump up the price from $1105 to an eye-watering $5970 per rider. Hey, winter comes but once a year!
Next to Tekapo’s scenic hot springs is an ice-cool activity for all abilities. Follow a 150m downhill course with a helmet, inflatable tube and little control over where you go - the Snow Tubing Park runs at Tekapo Springs from April through October - depending on the weather.
Wrap up warm and children must be at least 1m tall to ride.
Step out for the day on the Pisa Ranges, one of New Zealand’s most unique snowsports areas. Snow Farm is the national cross-country ski centre. While this esoteric ski discipline for people who hate hills, the centre also offers snowshoeing experiences. No experience necessary, the centre hires shoes for those who want to go walk about in Wānaka’s wintery heights. Overnight options are also available with winter huts and dogs are welcome too, with day and season passes for Fido.
As the white caps settle on the maunga, it’s that time of the year one thinks of finally booking a lesson and learning a new snow sport. But there’s one snow school far beyond the boundaries of the ski resorts, for would-be mountaineers. Hillary Outdoors runs two introductory and intermediate, two-day courses a season. Held on the side of Ruapehu, it’s the perfect first steps for budding alpinists to learn skills and safety to explore the winter alpine environment.
Along with two days’ instruction, the course includes food, equipment and accommodation.