The view is spectacular from the top of Matsuyama Castle on Mt. Katsuyama.
The view is spectacular from the top of Matsuyama Castle on Mt. Katsuyama.
If you hate crowds and prefer to travel blissfully slow, sidestep Tokyo and head to the under-explored region of Ehime, writes Ivy Carruth.
In Japan’s Ehime Prefecture, the lights and sounds of the modern behemoth Tokyo seem worlds away, even though one lies merely a two-hour flight from the other. You probably haven’t heard of Ehime or the island on which it sits, which is Japan’s fourth-largest, Shikoku, and that’s absolutely fine with the folks who call it home. They’ve no desire to become the next bustling metropolis; they aren’t aiming to be anything they aren’t. What you will find is a brand-new way of experiencing Japan.
You probably haven’t heard of Ehime. The good news is, nobody else has either. Photo / Getty Images
Far from the maddening crowd
Travelling means different things to different people. For some, it’s an all-out assault on the doing, the seeing, and the joining, while for others, it’s an opportunity to quietly appreciate and assimilate into the authenticity of “place”. That’s what makes this particular part of Japan so appealing. It’s a relatively unknown hideaway that teems with culture and ritual. What it lacks in glitzy razzle-dazzle, it more than makes up for with verve and hospitality. In this prefecture, you’ll find the flourishing metropolitan area of Matsuyama and a handful of other cities and towns.
Only a little over three hours drive from Hiroshima or an hour more from Osaka, it’s definitely worth considering adding to your itinerary if you’ve been to Japan before and are aiming for something different or if you’re looking for a counterpart to the hectic scurry of the capital city. Ehime is also off the tread-worn path of the Golden Route and isn’t often visited by international tourists. You get to be a trailblazer.
Ehime Prefecture is located on Shikoku, Japan's fourth-largest island.
Samurai strongholds
One thing you can’t do just anywhere? Visit two of the country’s twelve remaining original castles. The Edo period from 1603-1868 focused on peace, growth and strict social order, and the Tokugawa Shogunate specified “one fief, one castle”. Thus, once scattered throughout the country, many were destroyed under the whim of rulers seeking to unify and equalise power.
Matsuyama Castle sits on the tip of Mt. Katsuyama, smack in the centre of Matsuyama City, Ehime’s capital. It’s rather majestic, especially considering its construction commenced around 1602, and it now sits hulking, though at the same time, somehow delicate. My advice? When you arrive at the top (more on that in a minute), go to the main keep; sweeping views of Matsuyama and the Seto Inland Sea are best from here. Stop and take it in: the gates and turrets, the Ninumaru Garden that preserves the space where more of the castle’s footprint once stood, and in the distance, the city and ocean blue. In March and April, hundreds of pink cherry blossom trees turn the grounds into a candy-floss swirl of rioting petals. The open chairlift is a spectacular way to get up or down, but you can also take one of the walking trails, which aren’t too strenuous (allow 30 minutes), or the ropeway cable car.
Matsuyama Castle is surrounded by cherry blossoms in March and April.
It probably won’t strike you as the most grand, but Uwajima Castle, located in the town of the same name, was a wonder when it was built around 1596. Five-sided in a bid to thwart enemy ingress, the clever manner of aiding in defence made it noteworthy. It has survived earthquakes, dictators, and wars and now sits as pretty as a picture, three layers atop stone walls with rafters upturned like whai wings, and the intricate roofline trim calls to mind a perfect set of square teeth. It’s more traditional-looking and atmospheric than Matsuyama, and getting there requires a traipse through green-treed thickets and lichen-shrouded rock boundaries. Spend a few moments engaging in Shinrin-yoku, the therapeutic act of spending time in the forest. Stop and listen to the birds, breathe in the loamy air, let the stillness around you relax your mind and appreciate the moment.
Keen to sleep like a feudal lord or lady? In Ozo, which insiders call “the small Kyoto”, slumber as the samurai did with a tranquil stay in the village palace. Think shoji screens, Japanese cypress beams and hushed luxury. It’s an introvert’s dream and, for those interested in the culture and heritage of the area, a boon to the itinerary.
Delight in the unexplored in Ehime, far away from crowds and noise. Photo / Lucas Calloch
The birthplace of Japanese onsen
Long heralded as a spot for retreating and relaxing, Ehime certainly doesn’t fall short in the things-to-do category. In fact, Dogo Onsen, Japan’s oldest hot spring, is located here, an institution that’s inspired movies, hosted world leaders and, for more than 3000 years, been a refuge for regular folks, too. If you’ve never stayed in a traditional Japanese accommodation or ryokan before, an onsen is an ideal place to try it for the first time. Choices abound with inclusions and amenities, and many serve a customary meal, so take the time to find exactly the one that suits you.
The oldest onsen in Japan is here in the Ehime Prefecture, with the city built around its antiquated footprint.
Japan’s most loved bike track
Slap on your shorts and mount your bike because the Shimanami Kaido, Japan’s most popular biking highway, is ready to take you where you want to go. For hard-core touring cyclists, 87km is all that stands between you and the completion of the entire route. You’ll roll through all six islands of the Seto Inland Sea, with plenty of sights to stop you in your tracks. Look for sea caves visible only at low tide, grab some rose icecream (it tastes like musky lemon) at the Yoshiumi Rose Garden, and learn more about the marauding Murakami Suigun pirates at the museum.
Catering to all levels of riders, from casual novices to those with thousands of kilometres under their belt, simply ride from one vantage to the next or choose an itinerary based on your interests. My pick is a smoothly powered e-bike; it’s the best of both worlds and helps immensely during the uphill bridge approaches. All equipment is hirable, so don’t worry about packing a thing, and since Ehime is tucked between seas and mountains, the mild climate is ideal for hitting the track year-round.
Jump on the Shimanami Kaido, Japan's most popular cycling highway. Photo / Florian Kurrasch
Feed me
This close to the sea, it’s only natural that it would serve as the pantry for much of the diet in this province. Tai-meshi (translates to sea bream and rice) is a dish well-known and much-loved here, and every city in the prefecture is apt to do it slightly differently. One thing they all tend to have in common is the utilisation of the most unctuous and rich parts of the fish, the leftover bones and head, to create a glossy bouillon for soaking the grains.
Another regional seafood dish to try is Jakoten. It’s made from small native fish called hotarujako which, strangely, are bioluminescent. They’re ground into a paste, seasoned, and shaped into a log or patty before being deep-fried. No, the patties don’t glow, but they do go down quite nicely with a cold beer and slices of crispy, peppery daikon. More a snack than an actual meal, they’re ubiquitous along the shopping streets throughout the town of Ewajima and the perfect hand-sized treat.
While it’s likely you’ve had many a skewer of yakitori in your travels through Japan, you’ll find it’s done differently here, and might I say… better? Instead of being pierced on a rod or kushi, it’s prepared loose on a searing hot plate and pressed down into the surface of the grill for a crispy, less fatty feast. Just assume you’ll order another serving – it’s that good.
Deceptively simple, but definitely moreish, the region's yakatori is unique. Photo / Mario Hafliger
It’s impossible to visit Ehime’s warm weather climate and not partake in the abundance of locally grown mikan. A tangerine-like citrus fruit, its skin is loose for easy peeling and its flesh the perfect mingling of sweet and barely sour. You’ll find it everywhere here, in jelly, icecream, as a garnish and, of course, as cold fresh-squeezed juice. In winter, they’re even roasted over coals and enjoyed hot.
So why not take the less-trodden path for a new adventure that focuses on meaningful cultural immersion and engaging more deeply with your surroundings? The quieter corners of the globe have much to offer those of us open to receiving.
Dining can be informal or very much the opposite in Ehime. Photo / Josh Wilburne
