If you truly want to live like a Parisian in Paris, follow the locals to a flea market. Photo / Getty Images
If you truly want to live like a Parisian in Paris, follow the locals to a flea market. Photo / Getty Images
If you truly want to live like a Parisian, follow the locals to a flea market, writes Demi Perera.
It’s a hot, sunny May morning in Cannes. The world’s media stood huddled together, enormous lenses pointing at the red-carpeted steps of the Palais des Festivals et des Congres. Multi-storey yachts are anchored in the harbour and throngs of people push forward for a glimpse of the world’s biggest movie stars. But my gaze is pulled in the opposite direction by a shiny object glistening on a covered table. I walk away from the crowd towards it. It’s a green stone set in a filigree pendant, the silver metal dulled by time but clasping the stone tightly nonetheless. I go through the other things on the table: rings in an oversized seashell, Cannes of old captured on sepia postcards, tiny ceramic kissing poodles and oval-shaped picture frames stacked against each other. Along the winding lane, there are more stalls, each displaying their wares: tops and skirts, high heels, scarves and French movie posters.
The history of flea markets in France is believed to date back to the 1870s, when rag-and-bone men sifted through rubbish and junk in the night to find discarded items they would then sell in the morning. The story is they hawked piles of salvaged goods on bare land outside the city walls. News of their bargains spread and the markets became popular.
The term “flea market” is thought to come from the French “marche aux puces”, which translates to “market of fleas”. A disgruntled 19th-century shopper is said to have claimed that Paris’ Saint-Ouen market was “nothing but a flea market”, in reference to the parasites found in the upholstery of the used furniture on sale. The phrase caught on.
Paris' Saint-Ouen flea market is the largest in the world, with over 2000 vendors. Photo / 123RF
A different story is that widening of boulevards in mid-19th century Paris forced vendors, who lived in a labyrinth of alleys in the centre, to abandon their storefronts and set up outside the fort. Hence the term “flee markets”, in English, which was perhaps then mistranslated to flea market in French.
Either way, it established a tradition, which spread beyond Paris, and as far as the likes of Cannes. The first and most famous flea market is of course, in Paris - Les Marches aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. It has more than 2000 vendors, spread across several hectares, divided into lanes and alleys.
Smaller markets are spread around the arrondissements; the 20 municipalities the city is divided into. Browsing flea markets, which mostly happen over weekends and public holidays, is a Parisian pastime and way of life. People flock to them to find treasure, hunt for bargains or simply give an old thing a new home.
Flea markets in France date back to the 1870s, originally run by rag-and-bone men selling salvaged items. Photo / 123RF
For visitors to the city, these markets are a fun way to explore Paris neighbourhoods they might otherwise miss. You’ll find everything from crockery to books, clothing, jewellery and bric-a-brac.
So, after the museums and tourist sites have been ticked off, here are some of our favourite places, by arrondissement, where you can rummage to your heart’s content and thrift something to re-love.
Saturday markets
Avenue Trudaine - Ninth arrondissement
The Saturday market, on Avenue Trudaine, starts at 7am and finishes at 7pm. Cadet and Notre Dame de Lorette Metro stations are easiest for getting here. Arrive early if you want the best chance of finding your treasure. Alternatively, arriving later means getting better prices when many sellers want to clear their tables and rails.
Some stalls are better curated than others here and it’s the place for nailing vintage shoes, handbags and designer clothing or a piece of unique jewellery. Most items are priced fairly so pay the marked price.
Carrying some cash, including €1 and €2 coins, is always a good idea; not all vendors accept card payments. As in any crowded place, keep your belongings safe and valuables out of your pockets.
Puces d’Aligre - 12th arrondissement
Puces d’Aligre flea market is convenient whether you’re in Paris for a weekend or longer because it opens everyday (except Mondays) from 8am to 2pm. The market is about five minutes’ walk from Ledru-Rollin station. What makes it special is the attached food market. Boulangeries, cheesemongers and speciality butchers line the street in what many consider to be the best food market in all of Paris.
You’ll find antique hand-embroidered linen, beautiful silverware and ceramics among vintage clothing, vinyl and books. Even if you don’t speak French, learning a few simple words or phrases is polite and holds you in good stead with vendors.
Browsers at a Paris flea market. Photo / Getty Images
Sunday markets
76 Boulevard de Port-Royal - Fifth arrondissement
The market at 76 Port-Royal Boulevard operates most Sundays between 8am and 6pm. Always check details before you arrive as, sometimes, it moves to a different place within the arrondissement. Les Gobelins and Port-Royal Metro stations get you closest to its regular spot. This is a particularly beautiful outdoor market to visit in spring, when the trees along the avenue are in full bloom.
In true flea market style, you will see a mixture of old and new items offered up for sale. Sort through bowls of vintage watches, crystal glassware, ceramic vases and paintings. If buying clothing, look up what French and European sizing translates to before you arrive.
104 Rue Brancion - 15th arrondissement
This weekend market is renowned for being the best for second-hand books. The Porte de Vanves metro station will bring you to it. The market is open from 9am to 7pm but always check opening times before you arrive.
Stalls display books on photography, history, design and a range of fiction and non-fiction titles in multiple languages. Feel free to flick through dusty pages and take time to rifle through boxes. Most locals do it and no one will be offended.
It’s good to note Paris is a very walkable city. Getting anywhere on foot will only add an extra 10 to 15 minutes to your journey compared with taking the metro. Walking is always preferable because you’ll likely stumble on a pop-up flea market not listed anywhere.
Checklist
FRANCE
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Paris with one stopover with Emirates, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines and Air NZ.
