Where to eat in Bali: A guide to the best dining spots 2023. Photo / Getty Images
Whether nuanced cuisine from around Indonesia or fine-dining fusion fare, Bali doesn’t disappoint when it’s time to dine, writes Natasha Dragun
There are more than 17,500 islands in the Indonesian archipelago, but for many travellers, there is just one. Bali attracts party people and posh in equal measure, and its resorts, beach clubs and restaurants reflect this diversity, embracing both the traditional – and the innovative. From the jungles of Ubud to the beaches of Seminyak, here’s a taste of the isle’s top places to eat in 2023.
Locavore
Tucked away in Ubud, Locavore’s chefs have a passion for sustainability and showcasing the archipelago’s freshest ingredients through dishes that unite modern culinary techniques with Balinese flavours. The set menu changes seasonally, but might include frangipani flower fritters with marigold emulsion; coconut, cashews, tamarind and chilli wrapped in young betel leaves; or grilled lobster marinated in shio koji with sambal and passionfruit-pickled bangkuang. Whatever you order, expect it to be presented with artistic flair. locavorenext.com
Chef Will Meyrick’s love affair with Bali continues at Mama San, an always-busy Seminyak haunt that is 1920s Shanghai-chic in design and Southeast Asian in flavour. There are two concepts here: The Dining Room & Bar, downstairs; and The Supper Club, on the upper level. Arrive at the former for aged tuna crudo with pomelo and shiso leaf, perhaps, or scallop and coconut pancakes. Or elevate your dining experience at the latter where you can opt for the chef’s set menu or order a la carte: the Sumba prawns in smoked coconut milk are a highlight. mamasanbali.com
Alchemy
With outlets in Ubud and Uluwatu, Alchemy is all about heroing ingredients via dishes that are vegan and almost completely raw. Sip ridiculously good cold-pressed juices while browsing the store’s range of natural body and beauty products – there are also courses on the topic, for those wanting to make their own. Then sit down to “medicinal soups” like turmeric laksa with coconut and ginger, jackfruit wraps, and mung bean crepes with pine-nut cream cheese. For an antioxidant hit, try one of the bountiful salads, made using produce plucked from surrounding farms. alchemybali.com
Tanaman
With eye-popping decor – think, bright blue furniture and neon lights – Tanaman celebrates the humble vegetable. Every single inch of the vegetable, from the skin to the seeds. Part of the Potato Head complex in Seminyak, the restaurant’s head chef (Aussie superstar Dom Hammond) sources ingredients from small Balinese farms and turns them into pretty plates that might include dumplings filled with apple, carrot, pumpkin and tempeh; or wood ear and oyster mushroom satay served with black garlic aioli. Book a seat at the chef’s table to enjoy a set menu paired with cocktails. seminyak.potatohead.co
Merah Putih
A shrine to the archipelago’s culinary heritage, Merah Putih in Seminyak takes traditional Indonesian dishes to new heights. The impressive interior design of soaring bamboo structures sets the stage for a foodie feast that spans the country’s islands. If you can’t decide what to order, consider the tasting menu. Otherwise, sit down to delights like jangkang (soft-shell crab with tomato, green papaya, pomelo and tamarind), or babi panggang (slow-roasted pork belly, soy, black bean paste and sambal matah). merahputihbali.com
The Cave
Bali has its fair share of dramatic dining rooms, but few compare to The Cave, carved into the rocky cliffs of Uluwatu – replete with stalagmites and crescent walls. The seven - or 10-course menu - is the brainchild of chef Ryan Clift, and each dish is as eye-catching as it is tasty. Get set for a degustation of crab croquettes with salted-egg sauce, tiger prawns with Napa cabbage and XO, and venison with pickled blackberries and coffee mousseline. There’s space for only 22 guests, so reserve your spot well in advance. thecavebali.com
No definitive list of Bali’s best restaurants would be complete without mentioning this Ubud eatery, perhaps the most-awarded dining room on the island. Chefs Chris Salens and Blake Thornley unite seasonal ingredients with modern French flavours in their two degustation menus, one of which is wholly vegetarian. The result? Frozen burrata with candied beetroot, perhaps. Kingfish “ham” in gazpacho with kaffir, definitely. And delectable seared scallops with crab and tapioca. Take a seat in the main restaurant, at the chef’s table or in the gazebo, with space for two. mozaic-bali.com
La Lucciola
This cult favourite has been sitting pretty in an open-air bamboo pavilion overlooking Seminyak beach for more than 30 years. If the view doesn’t steal your heart – unlikely – then the menu of Italian favourites will. If you can tear your gaze away from the ocean, order baked snapper, hand-rolled linguine with king prawns, zucchini flowers stuffed with crab, and Ligurian seafood stew. Then sip a fruity cocktail and watch the day disappear over the water. lalucciolabali.com
BLANCO Par Mandif
There’s space for just 28 very lucky diners at this restaurant, helmed by Indonesian celebrity chef and kitchen wunderkind Mandif Warokka. The seven-course degustation might feature aged sawara fish with smoked bone broth and obi oil; Jimbaran Bay Rock Lobster with green pea puree, Kalio curry and burnt leek; or a lamb rack on eggplant with a truffle-miso sauce. There are separate menus for vegetarians and pescatarians and a stellar wine list – opt to have each dish paired with the sommelier’s pick. blancoparmandif.com
Checklist
BALI
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies a seasonal direct service from Auckland to Bali between March and October. airnz.co.nz