The delicious pastel de nata has roots in the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém district of Lisbon. And while there are many places selling this treat, you can taste the original recipe at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem. Photo / 123rf
The delicious pastel de nata has roots in the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém district of Lisbon. And while there are many places selling this treat, you can taste the original recipe at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem. Photo / 123rf
A coast full of bountiful seafood, mountain villages with hearty stews and city bakeries dishing out sweet pastries, Portugal is a foodie’s road trip dream, writes Joana Taborda.
There are many reasons to journey around Portugal: endless beaches, centuries-old monuments, scenic hiking trails, and, of course, delicious food. Here freshly-caught seafood is delivered straight to your plate, the juiciest cuts of meat fill sandwiches and stews and pastries still follow recipes concocted by monks and nuns centuries prior. Come to see the sights, but stick around for these famous Portuguese dishes.
Tras-os-Montes: Feijoada a Transmontana
Few tourists venture through the region of Tras-os-Montes in the North of Portugal. It is a land of remote villages, like Podence, where devilish figures haunt the streets in a traditional carnival parade, and lush natural parks, like Parque Natural de Montesinho, provide a habitat for wild deer and wolves.
Winters here are long and cold. Perhaps that’s why one of the regional dishes is a nourishing meaty stew. The Feijoada a Transmontana features all kinds of pork cuts, including ribs, ham, cured sausages, pork neck and more. Red beans are also thrown in the pot for extra protein alongside vegetables like carrots and cabbage.
Hearty Portuguese lunch Francesinha. A sandwich with bread, ham, fresh sausage, roasted meat, melted cheese and with a fried egg on top. Photo / 123rf
Walking through the northern city of Porto feels like being on a roller coaster. Somehow, you’re constantly going up and down hills. Luckily, there’s always something to catch your interest along the way. Whether that’s the boats sailing through the Douro River, the spires of a church or the ubiquitous blue-and-white tilework. And, of course, that Port wine pitstop.
Boats on the picturesque Douro River in Porto. Photo / Unsplash
When hunger strikes, there is one dish that will fill you up in a heartbeat: the Francesinha. Translated as “Little French Girl”, this multilayered sandwich took the French croque monsieur as inspiration and turned it up a notch. Ham, steak and sausage (yes, all three) are wedged between thick slices of bread and topped with melted cheese and the occasional fried egg. The sandwich is submerged in a beer and tomato sauce and served with fries to mop it all up.
Aveiro: Ovos Moles
The origins of this sweet treat date back to the 16th century when it was created by nuns of the Convento de Jesus. It transitioned from a medicinal remedy to strengthen patients to the city's most beloved pastry. Photo / 123rf
The canals, the narrow arched bridges and the gondola-style boats have earned Aveiro the nickname of Portuguese Venice. But there are a lot of things that distinguish the two cities. The Aveiro boats, known as moliceiros, are much more colourful, with their bow and stern showcasing satiric illustrations, while the city’s waterfront is a gallery for Art Nouveau buildings.
Then there’s the ovos moles, a traditional sweet created by the nuns of the Convento de Jesus in the 16th century. What was once a medicine to strengthen patients in convent wards is now Aveiro’s most iconic pastry. Egg yolk, water and sugar are mixed into a paste and stuffed inside tiny barrels or communion wafer-like cases shaped like shells and fish. Learn to whip up a batch of these at Oficina do Doce.
Mealhada is known for serving its prized suckling pigs with slices of orange. Photo / 123rf
In central Portugal, between Aveiro and the university city of Coimbra, is an area known as Mealhada. It is home to the national forest of Bussaco, the thermal baths of Luso, and a myriad of restaurants serving suckling pigs.
The Leitao a Bairrada, as it’s known here, is typically cooked whole on a spit roast before being served in chunks on a platter with slices of orange (it helps cut the fat). You know it’s a good one when the meat is crunchy on the outside and soft and tender on the inside. Pair it with a glass of sparkling Bairrada wine.
Lisbon: Pastel de Nata
There’s something magical about getting lost in the Portuguese capital. Sure, you could follow the signs to the nearest monument, but you would miss out on the experience. You’ll want to linger over a bica (espresso) at a kiosk, capture the colourful street art murals and witness those cotton-candy sunsets from a viewpoint with a beer in hand.
On your wanderings, you’re bound to find a pastelaria (pastry shop) selling the infamous pastel de nata. This creamy egg-custard tart hails from the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém district. You can taste that original recipe at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, but places like Manteigaria and Castro are close contenders.
You’ll want to linger over a bica (espresso) in Lisbon. Photo / Unsplash
Setubal: Choco Frito
With a history tied to the fishing industry since the Roman era, Setubal proudly showcases its main delicacy, choco frito (fried cuttlefish), across many restaurants in the city. Photo / 123rf
Just a train ride away from Lisbon is Setubal. Since the Roman era, this coastal city has been tied to the fishing industry. At one point, it was the country’s largest canned-fish producer. A visit to the city’s market, Mercado do Livramento, is a must if you want a glimpse of the local cuisine.
The main delicacy here is cuttlefish. You’ll see choco frito (fried cuttlefish) announced all over restaurants. Similar to fried calamari, the crispy cuttlefish strips are served on a large platter with wedges of lemon to drizzle on top.
The Alentejo: Porco Preto
The vineyards of Alentejo. Photo / Supplied
A vast field topped with a lonesome oak tree is the quintessential image of the Alentejo. This is the country’s heartland, where vines grow alongside prickly pears and century-old olive trees that produce the beloved Portuguese olive oil. The region is worth a road trip in itself, starting with the region’s capital, Evora, home to a Roman temple. From here, you can take off to explore medieval towns, river beaches and award-winning stargazing sites like Lago Alqueva.
A tour of the local wineries is a must (this is the country’s biggest wine region, after all), as is sampling porco preto. The Iberian black pig tastes nothing like your average pork. This extra succulent variation is raised freely on a diet of acorns for at least a year. It’s especially tasty when grilled in cuts like secretos (behind the shoulder) or lagartos (rib-loin).
The Algarve: Cataplana
The name of this traditional seafood stew is derived from the clam-shaped copper pan used in its preparation. Photo / 123rf
On the south coast of Portugal lies the Algarve. The region’s charming seaside towns and paradisiacal beaches make it one of the first ports of call for those visiting the country.
Sagres attracts the surf crew, Lagos is full of photo-worthy sea caves, and Almancil is a golf haven. But there are also less-visited corners like the Ria Formosa Natural Park and the surrounding villages of Olhao and Tavira.
Seafood takes centre stage here, and one of the best ways to sample it is to order a cataplana. This traditional stew is named after the clam-shaped copper pan in which it’s cooked. The ingredients — which can be anything from a mix of fish, seafood or both — are slowly steamed together with white wine, veges and herbs such as coriander.
Madeira: Peixe-espada
The peixe-espada preto (black scabbard fish) is so prevalent in Madeira that you'll spot it in nearly every restaurant. Photo / Supplied
Madeira’s semitropical Portuguese island sits off the coast of Morocco. From the mystical forest of Fanal to the Mars-like paths of Ponta de Sao Lourenco and the mountain peaks of Areeiro and Ruivo, it could be the setting of a Peter Jackson epic.
When it comes to food, there is one fish that you’ll spot in pretty much every restaurant, and that is the peixe-espada preto (black scabbard fish). Some serve it with banana and passion fruit (the touristy version), while others present it as picado de espada, Madeira’s equivalent of fish and chips.
The Azores: Lapas
Limpets, known locally as lapas, are a delicacy in the Azores, found clinging to the island's sea rocks. The traditional method of grilling them with garlic and butter makes them a must-try when visiting. Photo / 123rf
This Portuguese archipelago is made up of nine volcanic islands, each with its own character. Never-ending greenery, lagoons and hot thermal springs fill the Azores’ main island of Sao Miguel. Here you can visit one of Europe’s oldest tea plantations, taste homemade pineapple liqueur and spot whales in the wild.
Clutching to the island’s sea rocks are small aquatic snails known as limpets or lapas in Portuguese. Locals eat these grilled with generous amounts of garlic, butter and a drizzle of lemon to top it off. Try them at Bar Caloura, a humble seaside restaurant a few miles south of Lagoa do Fogo.
