Alacati Town in Izmir is one of Turkey's most authentic old towns, with stone houses, narrow streets, boutique hotels and restaurants. Photo / Getty Images
Alacati Town in Izmir is one of Turkey's most authentic old towns, with stone houses, narrow streets, boutique hotels and restaurants. Photo / Getty Images
Turkey's megacity of Istanbul has long been a popular spot for travellers. But Izmir, its quieter cousin a little further south, is also well worth a look. Here, you'll find a brilliant market, superb architectural and archaeological highlights, and a diverse and vibrant culinary scene, writes Brett Atkinson.
What to see:
An authentic world away from Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, Kemaralti Market is Izmir's most interesting place to get pleasantly lost for a few hours. Unlike Istanbul, there are no silver-tongued touts offering spices, leather jackets and knock-off football shirts to international visitors, just locals shopping and socialising in an historic labyrinth that's the absolute heart and soul of the city.
Courtesy of the different cultures that have called Izmir home across the centuries – including Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Levantines and Turks – historic buildings to seek out includes churches, caravanserai and synagogues, and food vendors are always happy to offer a complimentary sample of street food and on-the-go snacks.
The ancient Greek town of Ephesus, now located in Izmir, is a major drawcard for history buffs. Photo / Getty Images
Often overlooked by visitors travelling one hour south to the ancient Greek city of Ephesus, Izmir's Museum of History and Art is one of Turkey's best repositories of ancient artefacts. Sculpture and statuary from the ancient sites of Smyrna, Ephesus and Pergamon fill three high-ceilinged pavilions, while 7th century BC gold currency minted by the legendary Persian ruler, King Croesus, are regarded as some of history's first coins.
What to do
Lined with wharves and warehouses recalling the days when Izmir was the eastern Mediterranean's most important trading hub, the Kordon runs for more than 2km along the city's western shoreline. Bike paths and a walking promenade are very popular with Izmirli locals – especially when the sun's setting over the Bay of Izmir – and the Kordon's eastern side is fringed with bars, cafes and restaurants, all reinforcing Izmir as one of Turkey's most liberal and cosmopolitan cities.
It's easy to get lost in Izmir's markets. Photo / Getty Images
To appreciate how Izmir's multi-cultural history continues to influence the city's food scene, join an Only in Izmir Culinary Walk with Culinary Backstreets. It's your best chance to avoid getting lost in Kemaralti Market, and local treats sampled across almost six hours include boyo, a Sephardic Jewish fried pastry served with tahini and a boiled egg - tastier than it sounds – and sambali, almond-studded cake made with yoghurt and semolina. Try it with kaymak (clotted cream) at the Meshur Hisaronu Sambalicisi bakery in Kemaralti Market. It's all they've served since 1942, so they've definitely mastered the recipe by now.
Where to eat:
In an historic stone-walled house in Kemaralti Market, Aysa specialises in Bosnian food, not unlike Turkish food, but further imbued with the flavours and ingredients of the Balkans. Recommended form is to choose from the dizzying array of mezze – the delicious borek (cheese and spiced meat in filo pastry) is a good place to start – and there are also eggplant and potato versions for vegetarian palates.
Diners pack the streets on warm evenings in Izmir. Photo / Getty Images
Along the Kordon, seafood served with raki (a distilled aniseed spirit), or wine from the emerging vineyard scene at nearby Urla, is the focus for leisurely lunches and sunset dinners. Perennially popular restaurants with Izmirli diners include Deniz (the Turkish word for "sea"), and Veli Usta, where signature dishes include octopus, and a fish kebab made with John Dory. Kicking things off with a few shared mezze plates is always a good idea.
Coffee and beer are the two essential beverages keeping many Izmirlis recharged and refreshed. In Kemaralti Market, follow the aroma of Turk kahvesi (Turkish coffee) to Kahveci Omer Usta in the shadow of the Hisar Mosque, while the city's best lattes and espressos are served at No 18's hole-in-the-wall spot in Alsancak.
At the northern end of the Kordon, Alsancak's winding streets and narrow laneways make up Izmir's nightlife hub, and are especially busy with local students on Friday and Saturday nights. No 9 Cafe & Bar combines happy-hour prices on frosty bottles of Efes Pilsen beer with vintage Turkish jazz, while Turkey's fledgling craft beer scene is well-represented at La Puerta. Brews from Gara Guzu and Feliz Kulpa are always worth trying.
Journey one hour west to Alacati at the end of the Cesme Peninsula. Boutique hotels and excellent restaurants feature in the white-washed stone houses of Alaçati's Greek old town, while nearby Urla is the centre of Turkey's fastest-growing wine-making region. In Alacati, Arven Winehouse's garden setting showcases the best Urla wines.
Where to stay:
Modern and spacious rooms and one of Izmir's best breakfast buffets feature at the Zeniva Hotel, and it's a just stroll to the Kordon.
Getting There:
Izmir is a one-hour flight south of Istanbul with Turkish Airlines, or on the nation's low-cost alternative, Pegasus Airlines. By direct bus, it's around eight hours. If you're driving from Istanbul, it's about 10 hours total driving time, factoring in an essential detour to the Anzac battlefields at Gallipoli.
Travel Checklist: Travellers to Turkey must present an International Travel Vaccination Certificate, or a negative Covid-19 PCR test taken, at most, 72 hours before arrival, or a negative Covid-19 antigen test taken, at most, 48 hours before arrival. Check with your airline for details.
