Olomouc's historic main square, featuring the Holy Trinity Column. Photo / Getty Images
Olomouc's historic main square, featuring the Holy Trinity Column. Photo / Getty Images
Olomouc (pronounced "Olla-Moats"), is a relaxed Moravian alternative to Bohemia's busy destinations of Prague and Cesky Krumlov, writes Brett Atkinson.
Founded by Julius Caesar, successful in repulsing a Mongol invasion in the 13th century, and mentioned in an obscure 2001 album track by US indie band R.E.M., Olomouc may be the Czech Republic's best-kept secret.
What to see:
Olomouc sees a fraction of the tourist numbers visiting Prague and Cesky Krumlov, which means travellers are guaranteed a more authentic experience while exploring the city's Old Town.
Ornate fountains and pastel-coloured heritage buildings are features of Olomouc. Photo / Getty Images
Highlights of Horni namesti, Olomouc's glorious main square that's equal to anywhere else in Central Europe, include the exuberant Baroque overkill of the Unesco World Heritage-listed Holy Trinity column, and ascending the soaring tower crowning the 14th-century town hall. At the base of the town hall, Olomouc's quirky astronomical clock is a Social Realism-themed wonder enlivened by ideologically pure representations of 1950s farmers and factory workers.
Olomouc's quirky astronomical clock at the Town Hall. Photo / Getty Images
Elsewhere in the main square, framed by a roll call of pastel-coloured heritage facades, Olomouc's famous fountains include the Hercules fountain from 1688, and a (slightly) more modern 1724 depiction of Julius Caesar. During Czechoslovakia's Communist era, from 1948 to 1989, the Roman emperor straddling his horse was crowned with a single red star.
From the square, it's an 800m stroll to Olomouc's Archbishop's Palace, built on historic foundations more than 1000 years old, and now best explored on a guided tour with the city's information office. Other highlights of Olomouc's oldest precinct include the Archbishop's Museum, especially the glittering and bling-tastic 18th-century Troyer Coach and the excellent Olomouc Museum of Modern Art.
Car rental is good value in the Czech Republic – count on around $40 per day – so negotiate quiet rural roads while exploring nearby caves and castles. North of Olomouc, Sternbek Castle dates back to the 13th century and was given Grand Designs makeovers in 1480 – in Renaissance style – and a moody Romantic look in 1886.
Brooding Bouzov Castle in the Moravian countryside. Photo / Getty Images
Even more impressive are the defensive moats and watchtowers of brooding Bouzov Castle, northwest of the city, and the home of the Order of Teutonic Knights from 1799 until 1939 when the castle was looted by the Nazis. From Bouzov Castle, it's an easy 5km hike through Moravian countryside to the Javoricko caves. See visit.caves.cz for English-language information on exploring the impressive subterranean system.
Where to eat:
Some of Olomouc's best traditional food is conveniently served with excellent Czech beer, especially at popular local microbreweries. At Moritz, try the roast duck with red cabbage and potato dumplings, or dive into the stonking "Brewery Skewer" - crammed with pork, bacon, sausage and chicken - at the Svatovaclavsky microbrewery.
Modern cafe-style meals are served with seasonal beers from smaller Czech craft breweries at Long Story Short, and the versatile venue also hosts an excellent bakery and one of the Czech Republic's best flashpacker hostels. A surprising feature of the Olomouc restaurant scene are a few good Vietnamese restaurants, a legacy of when Prague and Hanoi were close cultural partners during the Cold War. Try Ca Phe District for Vietnamese coffee and banh mi sandwiches.
Where to drink:
Olomouc hosts one of the Czech Republic's most important universities, so there's always an energetic vibe to the city's bars. Team Olomouc's famously pungent Olomoucke tvaruzky (aged cow's cheese) with local beers at the Svatovaclavsky microbrewery, or book a session at their pivni lazne (beer spa) where relaxing treatments include bathing in a hot tub infused with the healing power of hop flowers.
Another recommended destination for travelling beer fans is Pivovar Chomout, easily reached by taxi 6km north of the city. Featured brews include traditional Czech-style pilsners, and also IPAs and farmhouse ales in a nod to more contemporary beer culture.
To explore the up and coming wine-making scene of the eastern Czech region of Moravia – especially wines from the Mikulov sub-region two hours south of Olomouc – adjourn to Vinoteka U Tri Bratri ("Three Brothers Wine Bar"). Varietals achieving global recognition include cool-climate riesling and gewürztraminer.
The best coffee in Olomouc is at Traffic!, where single-origin beans are roasted and served in a cool and cosmopolitan spot in contrast to Olomouc's heritage ambience.
Just a short walk from Olomouc's main square, Penzion Na Hrade has modern and stylish rooms with wooden floors and contemporary decor. There's a shared garden that's perfect for warmer spring and summer evenings, and breakfast is a leisurely affair with coffee and freshly-baked pastries. Booking ahead in July and August is recommended.
Getting There & Around
Olomouc is easily reached on direct train services (two hours 45 minutes) from Prague's main train station. Currently, the most straightforward route to Prague for New Zealand travellers is via Dubai with Emirates, or through Doha with Qatar Airways. Flights via Singapore include transiting in Frankfurt onto a final flight to Prague with Lufthansa. To rent a car in Olomouc, contact Autopujcovna Renorent.
