What to see and do in Budapest during Europe’s summer

By Julia Hammond

NZ Herald·

25 Apr, 2024 06:00 AM6 mins to read

Budapest is highly regarded amongst Europeans as a top destination to visit. Photo / Getty Images

Travel writer Julia Hammond finds out what it’s like to spend a few days in Budapest, Hungary’s famous capital that’s blowing up on socials right now.

Budapest isn’t short of nicknames. Some dub it the “Pearl of the Danube”, others the “Paris of the East”, but its “City of Spas” tagline sums up what I like best about the Hungarian capital.

The tradition of soaking in a thermal bath here goes back many centuries. The Celts, Romans and Ottomans all made the most of the mineral-rich water that bubbles up under the city. Today, there are still more than a hundred thermal springs.

With just a few days at my disposal I was never going to be able to try them all. Some no-frills establishments cater largely for a local crowd where functionality trumps style; others are swankier affairs designed to appeal to moneyed visitors.

I plumped for the neo-Baroque Szechenyi Baths, which falls somewhere between the two. Luxuriating in its outdoor pool, where the water temperature is a toasty 27 to 38C, I wallowed until my fingers wrinkled. Beside me, grey-haired retirees played their regular games of chess against a babble of background chatter that was unquestionably pan-European.

The Szechenyi Baths offer a blend of luxury and functionality, attracting visitors of all ages. Photo / Linda Gerbec on Unsplash

The city sights beckoned, so I hopped on what residents call the kisfoldalatti. Built in the 1890s, it’s the third oldest metro in the world. I emerged in Vorosmarty ter where, if you’ll pardon the pun, finding a historic cafe turned out to be a piece of cake.

The Art Nouveau Cafe Gerbeaud was even older than the subway, replete with brass, polished wood and high ceilings dripping with crystal chandeliers. Suitably caffeinated, I took a walk beside the river, passing the poignant “shoes on the Danube Bank” memorial that commemorates those Jews who died in a World War II atrocity.

Budapest's metro, built in the 1890s, ranks as the world's third oldest. Photo / 123rf

Backtracking to the landmark Szechenyi Chain Bridge, I strolled across the Danube from Pest to Buda – the two combined to form a single city in 1873.

Luckily, there’s a funicular that makes light work of the steep hill up to Buda Castle. The changing of the guard ceremony takes place there on the hour, with the added bonus of musical accompaniment at noon.

Another highlight of this district is Fisherman’s Bastion, an ornate lookout with white stone turrets give it a fairytale castle vibe. From here, the view over to the Hungarian Parliament – an intentional knock-off of London’s Palace of Westminster – is impressive and the backdrop for many a selfie.

Fisherman’s Bastion offers a fairytale view of Budapest, reminiscent of a castle. Photo / 123rf

I don’t often make a habit of winding up in a bar by mid-afternoon, but in Budapest I was happy to make an exception. Szimpla Kert (the name translates as simple garden) is the city’s original romkocsma or ruin bar.

Owner Abel Zsendovits transformed a dilapidated building in the heart of the Jewish Quarter into a cool place to hang out. Two decades on, it remains defiantly ungentrified and has been the prototype for countless others.

Szimpla Kert, Budapest's original ruin bar, remains a hub of cool and sustainability. Photo / 123rf

Under a roofless courtyard hung with mirror balls and house plants, graffiti masked peeling paint on mismatched wooden doors and scruffy brick walls.

Salvaged furniture dominated the eclectic decor – I almost stumbled over the front half of a vintage Trabant car tucked up against an iron staircase. It’s not only a popular place to drink but also a unique take on sustainability: while some cities embrace greener public transport or recycled materials, Budapest goes one better – it recycles spaces.

Breakfast the following day was an altogether more refined and elegant affair. The New York Cafe welcomed its first customers in 1894. The restored interior of this fin-de-siecle gem is one of the most opulent in the city, boasting red velvet chairs, frescoed ceilings and yet more crystal chandeliers.

A waiter brought me a cappuccino dusted not with chocolate, but with 24-carat gold. As I sipped the foam, a violinist wandered out onto a grand staircase flanked by marble columns and began to play Strauss’ Blue Danube. I was 10 minutes’ walk and a hundred years away from last night’s shabby chic bar.

Spend a few days in Budapest, Hungary’s capital. Photo / Ljubomir Žarković on Unsplash

Later, I boarded a tram and rattled through the suburbs to reach the terminus of a short but very special stretch of track. I took my place on a wooden bench in a spotless train carriage and settled in for the scenic 11km ride through the Buda Hills. Pretty forested glades fell away on one side of the track to reveal a panoramic view of Budapest’s church spires and rooftops.

The Children’s Railway, known locally as Gyermekvasut, was staffed almost entirely by youngsters no older than 14. They collected fares, performed station-master duties and checked tickets on board. In fact, they took care of pretty much everything except driving the trains. These were the elite of Budapest’s primary schools; to work here was a privilege afforded only to those with the best grades.

My short break was almost over and it would soon be time for me to fly home. And as I looked at the beaming smiles of the children in their immaculately pressed uniforms and shiny peaked caps, I wished they could run everything there as well.

How to get there

Flights with Air New Zealand from Wellington, Auckland or Christchurch to Budapest start at $1495. Alternatively, break your journey up in a European hub such as London and fly on to the Hungarian capital with a low-cost airline such as Hungarian carrier Wizz Air from as little as $80 return.

Where to stay

The centrally-located AK7 Boutique Suites are a quality budget option, doubles cost about $102 per night. Budapest’s most famous five-star hotel, the Gellert, is currently undergoing an extensive renovation and is expected to reopen as a Mandarin Oriental in 2027.