The view from the Taranaki Falls hiking track. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
The view from the Taranaki Falls hiking track. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
OPINION
Madeleine Crutchley takes a trip down State Highway 4 and finds pretty alpine towns with lots to do in the sunshine.
As spring and summer appear just over the horizon, the shores of Aotearoa or the sands of Australia begin to beckon. Though the beach whistles with familiar relaxing tones, you might be persuaded to go further inland.
There are a string of spots down SH4, past the mountainous peaks of Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngāuruhoe that beckon visitors to tramp, mountain bike and soak in the cooling mountain waters. More now as the development of the Mountains To Sea Trail continues (Te Ara Mangawhero and Te Hangāruru are two sections currently in construction), eco-tourism in the region will expand to welcome both novice and expert mountain bikers.
For a couple of beginner mountain bikers, with limited experience but a lot of enthusiasm, we found so much to love in an alpine landscape we previously hadn’t imagined could be for us.
Our trip begins in Ōngarue with a stunning bike ride.
The Timber Trail is an 85KM track that runs through the Pureora Forest Park. It’s a wilderness that doesn’t seem so distant in location – the marker for the centre of the North Island is dropped somewhere among the trees of the bush.
We start our electric mountain biking experience with a lift from Timber Trail Shuttle & Bike Hire in Ōngarue (bikes trailing behind). We drive into the forest past the 1923 Rail Disaster Memorial, Te Ihingarangi Marae and one of New Zealand’s most prominent treetop protest sites. Our excellent guide, Julian Goulding of Camp Epic, reveals some of its history.
Protestors in the treetops of Pureora State Forest Park. Photo / Morrie Peacock via Alexander Turnbull Library
In 1978, a group of conservationists protested the felling of native trees for logging, making headlines for their steadfast stances around the 1000-year-old totara in the area. They built platforms in the trees and hid under logs, clashing with local forestry workers who relied on logging for their income. In the years since, community members have continued to advocate for the expansion and protection of the forest.
The Timber Trail, completed and opened in 2013, is a historic ride through this storied felling and its fulminations. The forest is a neon green mix of native, introduced and regenerated trees.
The track has connected old logging roads and tram lines with perilous suspension bridges. The terrain, rated at grade 2 or 3 depending on the weather and track conditions, includes gravel, pumice and, on rainy days like ours, lots of mud.
The Timber Trail earns storybook comparisons during our trip. High in the alpine environment, furry trees seem aptly affectionate of The Lorax. In some lower sections, we ride in the cloven footsteps of gruff Billy goats.
The Timber Trail repurposes historic tramways into mountain biking terrain. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
The bridges are particularly thrilling. When I rounded the corner that opened up to the first swaying suspension bridge I gasped from either fear or exhilaration (distinctions are difficult above a deep canyon).
High in the hills or low in the valleys, there are also places to rest tired legs overnight if you’re stopping halfway. We stay at the quirky and warming Blackfern Lodge, which consists of five en suite rooms and a communal living and dining area – complete with a pool table and vintage memorabilia. There’s also an outdoor spa pool that hums along with the river’s trickling. It’s an idyllic resting spot after a long day of riding.
Other retreats include Camp Epic, a glamping destination with a communal mindset (there’s a central firepit and a huge open-air kitchen), and the Timber Trail Lodge, a lavish spot elevated over the gorgeous forest.
Ōwhango
Further down the highway, after driving past the fluff of the Nevalea Alpaca farm (you can book in for close, woolly encounters here if you please), we make another welcome stop in Ōwhango. We’re introduced to the town through the Blue Hill Cafe – their cabinet houses piles of sandwiches and a healthy display of sweet treats – before continuing our wander.
The small town has markers of a community that has been making it work for themselves (and each other) for a long time. One particular signal is down Onematua Rd. The short gravel road leads to the Kākahi Stream, where locals adapted the natural flow into a swimming pool with some cleverly placed concrete inserts. It’s suggested this construction hoped to prepare a local athlete for international competition (the first use, according to local records, was over the summer of 1939/1940).
The Ohinetonga loop walk surrounds this still lagoon. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
Just a short drive on the other side of SH4, you’ll find the Ohinetonga Trail. It’s a 3.8km walking trail that weaves around a lagoon and through forest carefully tended by local volunteer group Ōwhango Alive.
Kererū, toutouwai and pōpokotea flit and flirt through the forest, while, on a good day, whio and weweia sail down the Whakapapa River nearby. Though a rope swing calls across the river, the mountain meltwater is a temperature I find too icy.
Waimarino
Closer to the peaks, Waimarino, National Park Village, also promises a place for a naturally vibrant retreat.
We stay in the heart of it all, at the family-run Tongariro Crossing Lodge.
They also provide a sweet continental breakfast (you can also find their homemade bread recipe, featuring rye flour and a litany of seeds, on their website).
The view from Tongariro Crossing Lodge. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
The characterful lodge is near the rest of the park – made evident with the views on a clear day. Snow-dusted peaks cut through a brilliant blue sky one morning. I squint to see if I can spot skiers making their way down the mountain.
The lodge is our base for myriad trails. Tawhai Falls rewards a quick 600m walk with a torrent of water. Taranaki Falls is a breezy trek around a changeable alpine track near the perpetually frozen Chateau Tongariro (and a must-do for anyone who can while visiting the region). There’s more mountain biking here too – the developing Marton Sash and Door trail is a flowy ride and features stunning views of the landscape.
We’re met with friendly faces at Adrift Tongariro and the Alpine Centre. They’re expert guides offering valuable advice – they ensure we’ve got the knowledge and the gear to make it back safely from our outdoor traipse (plus, plenty of stories to share along the trails).
With this ongoing exercise, we needed some hearty fuel. Schnapps had a lively pub atmosphere (and generous bowls of chips), while the quieter Spiral served restaurant-style kai in the Park Hotel.
Ohakune
Further south, turning on SH49, we follow the road to New Zealand’s biggest carrot.
Beyond its association with the slopes, Ohakune buzzes with energy in the warmer months as it’s a popular destination for mountain biking and walking (the Mangawhero Forest Walk is a great trail to start). We stay in the Rocky Mountain Chalets and are glad to hear about their hot pool.
The lush and bumpy Old Coach Road, which we ride with local operators TCB, is a major highlight. The trail follows an old cobblestone road and explores New Zealand’s rail heritage. We see surreal structures once used to connect rail in the North Island. The meeting of these huge structures and the natural bush is sublime.
Old Coach Road has relics of train travel from another time. Photo / Madeleine Crutchley
We round out the trail at Ohakune’s train station – warming with coffees next to a fireplace in Opus Fresh and browse their range of crafts made by local artisans.
We’re also continuously delighted to see establishments with their famous root vegetable on their menus – carrots are stars from Utopia Cafe to Honeycomb Kitchen, Kombi Juicery and the Powderhorn. One bite that’s exempt is the chocolate eclair from Johnny Nations. The treat is loved by locals and highly recommended again and again.
