For stunning, empty beaches, island resorts with pleasingly small guest capacity and some insight into real Fijian life, head to the Yasawa Islands. Photo / Tourism Fiji
Kiwis love travelling to Fiji on holiday but many are making a big mistake when it comes to where they stay during their trip, writes Sarah Pollok
With family-friendly and luxurious resorts, a dependably balmy climate and easygoing culture, all a three-hour flight away, it’s no surprise Fiji is a long-established hotspot for holidaying Kiwis.
However, travellers seeking to experience Fiji’s culture and scenery in its purest form make a mistake when they only hang around Denerau. For stunning, empty beaches, island resorts with double-digit guest capacity and insight into real Fijian life, you’ll need to hop on a boat and head to the Yasawa Islands.
Norwest of the Viti Levu, the 20 volcanic islands aren’t far from the mainland (the first in the archipelago is just 50km away) yet they remain largely untouched by tourism, with only a handful of resorts and hostels scattered across the group.
If you manage to escape the crowds and go adventuring across the Yasawas, here are 10 must-do activities you can do to make the most of the pristine beaches, vibrant coral reefs and serene atmosphere.
There’s no doubt one of the best ways to see the Yasawa Islands is by boat, with the sun shining down and the warm wind whipping through your hair as you speed along unbelievably blue water. Luckily for visitors, this is exactly how you’ll get to your accommodation - unless you decide to travel on a helicopter.
South Sea Cruises’ Yasawa Flyer departs Port Denarau at 8.45am daily and travels up the island chain, stopping at various resorts. While it’s essentially a commuting ferry, it easily becomes a highlight experience, with a few hacks.
2. Visit a magical underwater cave
Those who have seen the 1980 romantic adventure film Blue Lagoon, starring Brooke Shields, will be familiar with the Sawa-i-lau Caves. Located on the only limestone island in Fiji, the caves are considered the heart of the Yasawa Islands by locals and draw dozens of visitors daily. Thankfully, Coconut Beach Resort knows to make the 35-minute journey early so you have the caves alone before other boats arrive.
After descending the gloomy steps and donning your snorkel and flippers, you can hop into the cool water and paddle around the cave as sunlight streams through an opening above. To reach the second cave, however, one needs a guide, a torch and a bit of courage to dive under a large rock wall and be pulled into the pitch-black sanctum, where legend says women and children hid for days at a time during tribal battles.
3. Try kava
Better than talking about rituals and culture is to experience it for yourself, and a kava ceremony is a perfect way to learn about and immerse yourself in Fijian culture. Many resorts in the Yasawas, including Coconut Beach Resort and Waya Island Resort, have evenings dedicated to learning about and trying the sacred drink.
In a similar way to tea in Turkey or sake in Japan, tourists are welcome to try the beverage but there are certain rules to follow: one must clap loudly once when offered the cup, say ‘Bula!’ and drink it in one gulp (no sipping), before returning the cup and clapping three times. Be warned: while kava isn’t alcoholic, it does have psychoactive effects similar to alcohol so drink responsibly!
4. Enjoy world-class snorkel spots
What’s a trip to Fiji’s most stunning islands without a trip below the ocean surface? Luckily, you’re spoilt for choice, as almost every resort offers a way to dive among the fish. However, those with a heart for sustainability should travel to Nacula Island to see how these iconic reefs are being protected. On this island, travellers can grab a snorkel from Blue Lagoon Resort and dive off the white-sand beach to see the underwater sculpture built by Counting Coral, a nonprofit organisation.
The collection of 137 giant floral structures, made from marine-grade stainless steel, were built in 2022 and have since become home to 30 species of vibrant coral and a thriving community of fish, spotted stingrays and turtles that dip and dive around the structures, which spin and move with the current.
5. Do absolutely nothing
If you struggle to power down and relax, the Yasawa Islands are your kind of destination. Due to the remote island location, many resorts limit Wi-Fi to the lobby and have weak cell service, making it easier for holidaymakers to ditch their phones and enjoy their surroundings. I’d recommend browsing the book-swap libraries many hotels have and then allowing hours to drift by from a poolside lounger or beachside hammock.
6. Enjoy a stunning beach all to yourself
When life gives you empty white-sand beaches and kaleidoscopic blue oceans, you’ve got to make the most of them. This could involve a sunset stroll, watching the sunrise with coffee in hand or sunbathing with a book.
If you’re a guest at Yasawa Island Resort, you can even book a private beach picnic. Included in your stay, the resort will ferry you to a beach that is totally empty aside from a cushioned bamboo cabana, a picnic hamper full of treats and the sweet taste of serenity.
7. Chat about the culture
Sure, one can visit museums and read travel books but one of the best ways to learn more about the Yasawa’s cuisine, lifestyle, unique dialects and ways of life is to ask the locals. Unlike some countries, Fijians are extremely proud of their heritage and most are happy to share insight into their people’s ways of living, whether it’s how to say thank you in a different dialect, the legend behind an island’s name, the importance of Sunday church or the rituals of a kava ceremony.
8. Relax with a massage
I don’t know about you, but nothing gets me into a relaxed state like having my rigid shoulders pummelled into submission. So, if the balmy climate, delicious meals and stunning views at Waya Island Resort don’t help your body soften and release, an hour in the open-air massage pavilion, accompanied by the soft sound of the ocean, definitely will.
As indulgent as island resorts are, they aren’t exactly a realistic representation of life on the islands. When travelling off the beaten track at a destination like the Yasawas, you can enjoy resorts and attractions free from the masses, but you can also experience first-hand how most Fijians live. For example, most staff at Waya Island Resort hail from Yalobi village, on the other side of the island, and are happy to take curious travellers around the brightly-painted houses, historic churches and manicured gardens where goats and chickens roam.
10. See the Yasawa Islands from the sky
Most visitors hop between islands on the Yasawa Flyer but nothing quite compares to seeing this remote chain of islands from the sky. Glam up your arrival or departure by booking a helicopter transfer from certain hotels such as Yasawa Island Resort or Waya Island Resort, which carry you high over the incredible pattern of ocean and reef before dropping you right at the airport.