Come rain or shine discover the best of both worlds in New Plymouth. Photo / Getty Images
Come rain or shine discover the best of both worlds in New Plymouth. Photo / Getty Images
When a weekend in New Plymouth oscillated abruptly between sodden and sunny, Peter Dragicevich set out to discover the best of both worlds.
We knew the rain was coming. The clouds were already in place during the drive north through South Taranaki, the mountain completely missing in action. Then suddenly – just as we were passing through Pātea and I was attempting to explain Poi E to my confused overseas guest – Taranaki showed his face. The clouds had shifted to form a single layer girding the midriff of the mighty maunga, with a little tuft clinging to the peak giving a decent impersonation of an eruption in progress. My Aussie mate was suitably impressed and I was relieved. A trip to Taranaki never feels complete without a view of the big guy.
A trip to Taranaki never feels complete without catching sight of Mount Taranaki. Photo / 123rf
After checking in at the stylish King & Queen Hotel Suites in central New Plymouth, we decided to make the most of our sea-view balcony in case we didn’t get another chance. A bottle of bubbles later, we had only to stumble up to the next corner to reach the city’s hippest dining complex. Built in 1886, the once-sketchy White Hart Hotel has been transformed into something akin to an uber-upmarket food court, with various eateries sharing a glassed-in central courtyard. We tried all of them over the course of the weekend and struggled to find a dud.
We awoke the next morning to what could best be described as a tempest. Thankfully it was just a quick dash across the road to Monica’s Eatery and a flat white to kickstart the day. This chic, plant-filled cafe is linked to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery, which in turn is linked to the Len Lye Centre – which was the main reason we had come to New Plymouth in the first place.
Easily the best thing to be built in New Zealand this millennium, this shiny symphony in fluted stainless steel showcases the works of 20th-century kinetic artist Len Lye. Truth be told, I was more eager to see the architecture than the art inside, but the twirling dance of Lye’s Sky Snakes soon had us mesmerised. Who knew that suspended silver cords could be so engrossing?
White Hart Hotel has been transformed into something akin to an upmarket food court. Photo / Venture Taranaki
After emerging from our hypnotic state, it was time to dash through the downpour to the city’s other main rainy-day attraction. Puke Ariki is a combination museum, art gallery and information centre and, even without swirling snakes, there’s plenty here to keep you entranced for a couple of hours. Fascinating displays shine a light on the explosive forces that created the landscape, local flora and fauna, and regional history. The highlight is Te Takapou Whāriki, the museum’s atmospheric Māori gallery, especially the beautifully carved pātaka panels that were unearthed from a Waitara swamp in 1971.
With culture ticked off the list, our afternoon took a different direction entirely. A short drive to an industrial nook behind the hospital landed us at the tasting room of Juno Gin. We left about an hour later, laden with bottles and much better versed in the science of distillation and the art of making good hooch.
Puke Ariki is a combination museum, art gallery and information centre.
Photo / Venture Taranaki
Sunny Sunday
Awaking to a clear day in New Plymouth presents numerous possibilities, but a sunny spot for a Sunday brunch was top of our list. Ozone, which spills out of its warehouse roastery on to a tucked-away square right next to our hotel, was an obvious choice.
We debated heading up the maunga for a short walk (the goblin-forest track to Wilkies Pools is a favourite) but the mountain was still demurely wreathed in cloud, so there was no point. Instead, we opted for a stroll along part of the Coastal Walkway. The whole path stretches for 11km from Port Taranaki to Bell Block. Aside from Len Lye’s wobbly 45m-high Wind Wand, the section along the seawall directly in front of the city centre is probably the least interesting, but the route gains momentum when you hit surf-battered Fitzroy Beach, the Waiwhakaiho river mouth and the Insta-worthy white-ribs of Te Rewa Rewa Bridge.
Capture the Insta-worthy white-ribs of Te Rewa Rewa Bridge. Photo / 123rf
After a quick, tasty lunch of banh mi (Vietnamese filled baguette) in the food-truck alley on Liardet St, we still had time to squeeze in a wander through what for my money is the country’s prettiest urban park, Pukekura, and up to the Bowl of Brooklands. The last time I was here was the Womad where Sinead O’Connor descended into hysterics after being upstaged by a duck as she sang Nothing Compares 2 U. Happy days.
Pukekura Park is easily one of the country's prettiest. Photo / Getty Images
Is it just us Kiwis that feel the pressure for everything to be amazing when we’re hosting international guests? It’s good to know that rain or shine, New Plymouth can still deliver the goods.
