Cycle the new Tweed Rail Trail in New South Wales, Australia Photo / Kiff & Culture; Tweed Tourism Co
Cycle the new Tweed Rail Trail in New South Wales, Australia Photo / Kiff & Culture; Tweed Tourism Co
Kiwis are well-accustomed to transforming disused train lines into cycling trails, and now the Australians are catching on with the introduction of Tweed’s new rail trail, writes Jessica Wynne Lockhart
The call of Eastern whipbirds cracking through the air, I effortlessly glide along the freshly paved path flanked by fields of sugarcane and in the distance, the peak of Wollumbin (Mount Warning) pierces the cloudless sky.
The peak of Wollumbin (Mount Warning) pierces the sky. Photo / @jewelzee
I’m riding along Australia’s newest cycling trail: Tweed’s 24km rail trail. Winding its way through the bucolic northeast NSW countryside from Murwillumbah to Crabbes Creek, it follows the route that was once traced by the North Coast Railway Line from 1894 to 2004.
To Kiwis — who have perfected the art of repurposing disused train lines — a rail trail might seem like old news. But here, they’re a relatively recent phenomenon. The Tweed rail trail (as it’s colloquially known) is one of only two such pathways over 20km in NSW — and it’s the first section of what is on track to become the 132km Northern Rivers Rail Trail, the state’s very first multi-day rail trail.
The 24km Tweed rail trail is the first section of what is on track to become the 132km Northern Rivers Rail Trail, NSW’s very first multi-day rail trail. Photo / Kiff & Culture; Tweed Tourism Co
When I pick up my hire bike from Murwillumbah Cycles, co-owner Jeff Harris is still buzzing from last week’s grand opening. Daily, he’s adding new bikes to his fleet to keep up with the demand. It’s what he’s spent years planning for, partially based on the advice of an outfitter friend on NZ’s Otago Central Rail Trail. (“He told me, ‘be ready’,” says Harris.) Two years ago, Harris moved his bike shop into the heritage-listed Murwillumbah Railway Station — the trail’s starting point — in anticipation of the launch.
“It’s just magic. The council did this,” he says, gesturing to the pathway, then turns to face his shop, a note of disbelief hanging in his voice, “and we did this.”
Harris waves me off and I set out from the station. Although the trail only takes about two hours to chug along, it’s not long before I realise it’s a pleasure ride best enjoyed at a more leisurely pace. Featuring seven historic railway station sites and 26 bridges, it would be easy to lose an entire day riding its length, given the number of welcome distractions along the way.
The trail only takes two hours to chug along so it's best enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Photo / Kiff & Culture; Tweed Tourism Co
The first is just 2km along the track, at the Tweed Regional Galley and Margaret Olley Art Centre. A surprisingly modern space for a community of Murwillumbah’s size, it celebrates the work of the Australian still-life artist. Just past Stokers Siding — where cream, sugarcane, and logs were once loaded on to a train for processing at nearby factories and mills — is Hosanna Farmstay, where cyclists can feed both themselves and the resident goats. And in Burringbar — once an overnight stop for Cobb & Co. coaches delivering mail to the region — I wander between the aisles at Heath’s Old Wares. Fortunately, the pannier on my bike doesn’t have enough room for the countless treasures I spot on the antique shop’s towering shelves.
Visit the Tweed Regional Galley and Margaret Olley Art Centre. Photo / @maxandfaye
These are just some of the communities that once sat along the rail line and are now being reconnected by the new trail. Yet, everywhere I stop, shop and restaurant owners echo the same sentiment: They had no idea just how popular it would be. Even today, on a Tuesday, riders and walkers of all ages and abilities are all aboard exploring the new trail. With only a subtle incline and a combination of packed gravel and paved surfaces, there’s no need to be the little engine that could; every engine can.
Still, by the time I reach the Burringbar Tunnel, I’m more than ready for the cool reprieve from the day’s heat. At around 500m, the tunnel’s length makes it dark enough for microbats and glow worms to hide within. As I emerge back into the light, I think about how lucky I am to be experiencing this place at this moment. Right now, the trail is almost still a local secret, but it won’t be long before it’s on everyone’s lips. It’s already headed in that direction; Harris tells me that Murwillumbah Cycles already has bookings for September.
Right now, the Tweed rail trail is still a local secret, but it won’t be long before it’s on everyone’s lips. Photo / Kiff & Culture; Tweed Tourism Co
The subtropical rainforest region is poised to take its rightful place as a destination for international visitors in its own right, rather than just an interloper between Byron Bay and the Gold Coast. Soon, the trail will be joined by the new Uki Mountain Bike Park; the four-day Tweed Byron Hinterland Walk; and the Richmond Valley section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail, which will open later in 2023.
The Richmond Valley section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail will open later in 2023. Photo / Sam Brincat
At the trail’s southern terminus, I stop at Crabbes Creek to read about the site’s spiritual significance to the Bundjalung people, who acknowledge it as the pathway of the sun. The Northern Rivers Rail Trail may celebrate the region’s historic past, but it’s the start of something decidedly new.
Details
Bike hire: Situated at Murwillumbah’s historic railway station—the starting point for the Tweed section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail—Murwillumbah Cycles hires cruisers, mountain bikes, and e-bikes. Transfers are also available from its second location in Mooball, near the trail’s end.
Stay: Home design magazines are calling it: minimalism is out. Chesson Lodge in Uki is a delightful example of why excess is taking its rightful place. Crammed with mid-century modern furniture and tchotchkes, the historic four-bedroom house caters well to groups of cyclists with its commercial kitchen, barbecue area, and swimming pool.
Fuel up: Start your day with a coffee at the 1909 heritage-listed Uki Post Office, where the postmaster does double duty as the roastmaster. Home to Bastion Lane Espresso, the contemporary space is also where you’ll the Art Post, a gallery showcasing the work of local artists.
Bastion Lane Espresso is a contemporary space where you’ll also find the Art Post gallery. Photo / Supplied
Checklist
Details: Murwillumbah
The closest airport to Murwillumbah is Gold Coast Airport, across states in Queensland. The drive will take approximately 30 minutes.
Air NZ and Jetstar both fly direct from Auckland Airport to Gold Coast Airport.
