Life under the Northern Lights: What is it really like for those living in these dreamlike Arctic regions? Photo / 123rf
Life under the Northern Lights: What is it really like for those living in these dreamlike Arctic regions? Photo / 123rf
Bonnie Culbertson talks to the locals who live under the Northern Lights, discussing what life is really like when all the bucket-list travellers go home.
Living in a place where the Northern Lights frequently grace the night sky is akin to dwelling in a dream - both during the winter months when the celestial ballet appears almost every night, as well as throughout the endless summer when 24-hour daylight blurs lines between wake and sleep. Residing in these remote regions - from Canada to Iceland to Scandinavia - is different from living in a bucket-list destination like the Maldives. In a tropical paradise, tourists arrive every day. Whereas in the Arctic, the tourist draw is more starkly seasonal. People come for Lady Aurora, and she emerges only between October and March.
A recent study by adventure travel company Explore Worldwide revealed not seeing the Northern Lights as the biggest travel regret for travellers aged over 70 and, according to UK-based travel company Kuoni, a trip to see the Northern Lights ranks just outside the top five most Googled wish-list destinations, coming in at number 6 behind experiences like seeing Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa in Paris, or the Statue of Liberty in New York; visiting the tropical beaches of Bora Bora or the Maldives; and feeling the mists of the mighty Niagara Falls on the border of Canada and the US. Where the Northern Lights rank on one’s personal wish-list might have more to do with how well one handles the cold. For some, those frosty temperatures make a trip so far north out of the question. Yet, as any local will tell you, the charms of these far reaches extend well beyond the seasonal light shows, and those who live here often can’t imagine living anywhere else.
For locals working in hospitality, early mornings and long hours spent overseeing the guest experience are the norm, says Tobi Barth, owner and operator of the Northern Lights Resort in Canada’s beautiful Yukon region. “As an owner, we have 16+ hour days [during the winter], no days off.” Those dark, early hours are spent preparing breakfast or removing snow, long before guests awake.
For Juha Tuunanen in Finnish Lapland, his day begins with a bit more adventure. “A typical work day starts around 8:30am when I race my snowmobile across the frozen river from my home to Aurora Village,” says the resort CEO. “By car this would take 10-15 minutes, but by snowmobile I get there in three.” His first social interaction of the day? The Aurora Village horses. “I check the stable, greet the horses and stable staff, and continue to our snowmobile shelter to park before entering the main building and pouring some coffee in my traditional wooden Kuksa-cup.”
Once properly caffeinated, Juha meets with his hotel manager, Elina, for a quick briefing. This might include discussing the needs of current guests or ensuring the resort’s sustainability standards are being met. Aurora Village was the first in northern Lapland to receive a Green Key certificate, which requires passing an annual audit of more than 90 different criteria for environmental stewardship. “We work hard on preserving nature, using local ingredients and supporting our local culture and community,” says Juha. “It’s a challenge we happily take and keep up with.”
Northern lights (Aurora Borealis) over snowed-in cottage in Lapland village, Finland. Photo / 123rf
In Iceland, Eyrún Aníta, marketing manager for Hotel Rangá, enjoys spending her weekends and time off with family, or joining friends and neighbours at the community pool for a soak in the hot tubs, a popular Icelandic pastime. “There is a swimming pool in most townships in Iceland where locals can hang out, chat about current affairs, and relax,” explains Eyrún. “We also have three geothermal hot tubs outside Hotel Rangá for our guests to use, so they can experience the local tradition. It is especially amazing in the wintertime if the sky is clear and you can see the stars and the Northern Lights if they appear.” As a mum, Eyrún also enjoys driving with her family all over South Iceland to take her daughters to soccer matches, go skiing in the winter or camping together in the summer.
Of course, not everyone in these regions works in hospitality. Unsurprisingly, the Arctic is also a mecca for photographers who love to capture the elusive Lady Aurora on camera, as well as shoot the pristine surrounding landscapes. For Virgil Reglioni in Norway’s northern city of Tromsø, and Aki Mikkola in Finnish Lapland, days are spent either capturing or editing content.
“As a photographer, my work involves not only capturing images of auroras but also handling administrative tasks,” says Virgil, adding that he tries to avoid spending the middle of the day - when precious daylight might grace the horizon - behind a screen. “I make it a point to go for a daily walk in town to soak in the natural light. When evening comes, I prepare my gear and eagerly anticipate hunting auroras with my guests and showcasing the natural beauty of the Tromsø area.”
For Aki, known on Instagram as the Prince of Lapland, it’s a similar story. “During the day I’m editing the old or creating new content - nature photos and videos from previous Aurora Hunting tours, portraits of people or commercial content for the companies I work with,” says Aki. “If I can, I try to hit the gym.”
Locals working in hospitality and tourism have long, demanding hours, particularly during the winter season. Photo / 123rf
Thriving in winter, surviving the summer
In the far north, winters are dark and frigid. Yet for many locals it is their favourite time of year. “Many people question why I choose to reside in such a cold and dark place during the entire winter, but these places offer more than just harsh weather; they evoke a unique vibe with a laid-back mentality that I adore,” explains Virgil. “Living here brings a sense of tranquillity, far removed from the hustle of big crowds and busy commutes. The stress diminishes, and we cherish the outdoors, embracing a natural playground framed by steep mountains and deep fjords in our backyard.”
It’s not that locals don’t feel the cold, they’re just so accustomed to it that it no longer defines their daily experience. “In the winter there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing,” says Eyrún, echoing a popular saying throughout the far north. “We dress for the weather using many layers to keep us warm. The Icelandic wool has kept us warm for centuries, the most iconic piece of wool we wear is called Lopapeysa.”
Midnight Sun in Lofoten islands, Norway. The Midnight Sun season during summer can disrupt sleep patterns for residents in these far-north regions. Photo / 123rf
“Once you buy good clothing, it will last for years and you will be fine,” agrees Aki. “It’s not always super cold. January is the coldest but it is also very beautiful. Perfect for winter content because the snowy trees are at their best!”
Luckily, if you find yourself in one of these destinations without the proper clothing, it won’t be a problem. “Naturally, we give instructions to our guests on how to dress properly,” explains Juha. “However, unless you’re attending a six-hour outdoor activity, which only about two per cent of our clients do, you’ll be fine and safe regardless. We even provide thermal clothing to all of our clients as needed.”
While most of us southerners might think of the winter months as the most challenging, for locals it can often be the summer’s relentless daylight - known here as the Midnight Sun season - that brings the most frustration. “During the Midnight Sun period and through all of summer from mid-April to mid-August, we need black-out curtains at home to be able to sleep well,” says Juha. “It’s hard to know when to go to bed when your internal body system still thinks it’s daytime.”
Another frustration, especially for those in hospitality, can be dealing with disgruntled guests who expect to see the Northern Lights in mid-summer. “We have 24 hours of daylight [in Canada’s Yukon] between May and August,” says Tobi. “Many people think they can see the Northern Lights in June, which is unfortunately incorrect. There is a lot of false information on the internet about the Northern Lights, published by people who have never travelled to the North to experience it.”
Northern Lights over the road. Despite the challenges of living in these remote regions, residents feel a strong sense of community and tight-knit social bonds, and they welcome tourists as an essential part of their local economies. Photo / 123rf
Yet it’s during these summer months, with quieter days due to fewer tourist arrivals, when residents feel most strongly connected to their communities. In these far-flung locales, neighbours are not just acquaintances; they are an integral part of a tight-knit social fabric, offering support and camaraderie against the backdrop of such dramatic landscapes, light and weather. “My favourite aspect of working in Tromsø is the significance of community, as my circle of friends plays a crucial role in maintaining a consistently positive and happy mood during the dark months,” admits Virgil.
“This is my home,” explains Eyrún in Iceland. “I was born and raised in an area close to Hotel Rangá called Fljótshlíð. Raising a family in a small township is a privilege, where everyone knows everyone. I very much enjoy teaching our guests and journalists about our local culture and sharing the beautiful surroundings that I grew up in with our visitors.”
“I can’t imagine a better place to raise our children,” Juha enthused. “Peace, cleanliness, safety and security like this is difficult to find in today’s world. I fully understand most people would not agree and would not be able to live here, and to me that just increases the value of this area. I’m happy to show this part of the world to others, happy to receive visitors, but I’m also happy to keep the population at its current level. Having more reindeer than people is a true privilege!” (According to Juha, Ivalo, Finland is home to 50,000 reindeer and just 3000 citizens).
Yet despite the ubiquitous sense of community, or perhaps even because of it, dating in these remote regions can be a challenge. As one example, Aki - a.k.a. “the Prince of Lapland” - seems to have had trouble finding his princess. “The dating game is different here,” he says. “You need to expand your reach if you want to meet more people because the population is so much lower. Unfortunately, you probably have to make compromises and be more flexible [in terms of how far you’re willing to go to meet someone]. I’ve been single now for three years, haha!”
Virgil in Tromsø, however, tells a different story. “Tromsø is a vibrant town with numerous bars and restaurants, providing excellent opportunities to meet new people,” he explains. “With 70,000 inhabitants and the largest university in the North, it boasts one of the most extensive international communities I’ve encountered. The town offers abundant chances to establish meaningful connections and build relationships with a diverse range of individuals.”
Life with wish-list tourists
Tourists are warmly welcomed across the Northern regions as they usually represent a vital aspect of the local economies. It helps as well that the majority of travellers in the area are already self-selected as people who appreciate the outdoors, wildlife, and a sense of peace. A recent Google review for Canada’s Northern Lights Resort & Spa sums up the sentiments of most Northern Lights tourists, “I barely used my phone except to take pictures. There was so much more to do and enjoy than to be on my phone, and it was nice to disconnect and just embrace nature.”
“We are lucky with our guests,” says Tobi. “They come from all over the world, are well-travelled and well-educated. We rarely have any issues with them.” The biggest complaint from those I spoke with regarding tourists is that they simply don’t know how to prepare for the cold.
And, of course, there’s the odd complaint when Mother Nature doesn’t co-operate and Lady Aurora refuses to show.
“We know many are here to see the northern lights, but it’s a natural phenomenon that is out of our control,” explains Juha, adding that to maximise one’s chances of seeing the Northern Lights, he recommends staying at least four nights. “We try to set expectations for our guests and point out that even though we see Northern Lights on most clear nights, there are sometimes thick clouds that prevent us from seeing them. But we are here to give a whole experience of an extraordinary vacation you can’t get in other parts of the world. It’s not all about Northern Lights - it’s the silence, cleanliness, authentic Lappish local culture, wilderness, and nature experiences.”
Eyrún agrees, “We encourage our guests to experience Iceland; the South Coast is amazing on its own and should always be the priority - seeing the Northern Lights is a bonus if they appear. But our advanced stargazing observatory, the best in Iceland, is always a nice plan B on clear nights when the Lights don’t make a visit.”
Living beneath the Arctic sky is about so much more than being spoiled with frequent displays of those ethereal lights, it is a way of life that seems to evoke one feeling above all - contentment. When days are slow, streets are safe, and the air and water is as clean as it gets, there seems to be little else the locals would wish for. The Northern Lights may be a tourist’s dream, but for those who call these regions home, it is simply another reminder of nature’s abundant and wondrous gifts we should all cherish.
