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Home / Travel

Whangarei: Northern lights

By Lucy Casley
NZ Herald·
26 Nov, 2015 11:00 PM3 mins to read

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Ocean Beach at Whangarei Heads. Photo / Northland INC

Ocean Beach at Whangarei Heads. Photo / Northland INC

Lucy Casley explores Whangarei's stunning scenery and mouthwatering cuisine.

Though our weekend getaway to Whangarei didn't get off to the most perfect of starts when we embarrassingly arrived at the wrong motel like two lost tourists, I'd like to say that was part of the adventure.

Fortunately, things only got better from there. Our mood was instantly lifted when we arrived at the new restaurant, Love Mussel, in the Whangarei Basin, which overlooks the marina and its luxury yachts and launches.

The vibe was buzzy and you could feel the sense of community in the air.

"We are trying to bring a piece of Auckland to Whangarei," said the friendly maitre d'. And that they did.

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Fresh Northland seafood is on the menu from Michelin-trained head chef Jay Maunder, and the food was so delicious it exceeded all expectations.

From the tasty, lightly battered prawns through to the salmon on a parcel of vegetables, everything we ordered was so delectable we had to share, including the beautifully presented creme brulee.

The following day, I wanted to see everything Whangarei had to offer. We wandered through the Growers' Market, where locals sell homegrown produce for half the price of what you would pay at markets in Auckland - definitely worth visiting while you're there.

After doing the Hatea Loop - a pleasant walk in the morning sun around the basin and its sculptures - we ventured out of town to the beautiful Whangarei Heads.

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Following a 45-minute drive winding along the scenic coastline of the harbour edged with pohutukawa trees and quintessential Kiwi baches, we reached the beach.

A short hike to a lookout revealed incredible views north to Tutukaka and south to the Hen and Chickens Islands. The place was almost deserted, apart from a small bunch of surfers.

The local growers' market is definitely worth a visit. Photo / Tourism Whangarei
The local growers' market is definitely worth a visit. Photo / Tourism Whangarei

The highlight of the weekend came that evening, with a visit to the Festival of Lights at the Quarry Arts Centre on the outskirts of town, which showcases the talent of local artists and performers in a celebration of light, art and music.

I walked through the gates mesmerised by the magic that surrounded me. There were old sheds decorated with lights, lit-up tents, and a spectacular collection of works in the Yvonne Rust Gallery. Everything in the show was created locally and all the pieces contributed to the light theme.

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My favourites were the magnificent shadow puppetry, each telling a story. The effort put into these was incredible.

Within this little sanctuary was an art shop run by the collective filled with a fantastic assortment of artworks.

We followed a group of 20 artists singing and dancing dressed as the animals from Noah's ark (some scary) around the quarry.

Our participation was required, so we happily clapped and sang along as best we could. A delicious banquet was also served.

More singing and dancing followed, before we finished with hot chocolate and churros.

We left Whangarei the following day after a weekend of fun, adventure and surprise. I was overwhelmed with the beauty that came with this little weekend getaway.

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CHECKLIST

Getting there: Whangarei is a two-hour drive north of Auckland. Air New Zealand flies non-stop to Whangarei from Auckland up to three times daily.

Details: The next Festival of Light will be held in October.

The writer travelled courtesy of Northland INC.

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