Alex Braae faces currents and rapids of mighty Whanganui.
I knew going into the rapid that I hadn't hit it at the right angle. It was something about the way the water was leaping and turning off a rock under the surface into a curl that looked innocuous from a distance, unforgiving up close.
It was only the third rapid of the day, the first two had been straightforward. My guide, Ben, had made it through with ease, and turned his kayak to see if I could get through.
"Keep paddling," he shouted, a condensed version of the advice he had given me earlier.
"If your oar is in the water, you have control. If it's not, the river decides where you go."
And as I smashed into the wave side-on, the Whanganui River cast its judgment on me. I was going to get wet.
My petrol-station sunglasses were swept off my head as I went under, never to be seen again. River water surged into my mouth.
I floated towards the bank to regroup, and we took the opportunity to stop for lunch. On rocks warmed by the sun, we ate our sandwiches and watched canoes navigate the section that had tipped me out. A pair of shirtless French tourists in Santa hats got through particularly impressively, the Canadians who came next weren't quite so lucky.
When the canoe started to tip, the paddler at the back decided it would be better to embrace his fate, leaping overboard.
Rivers are the lifeblood of the Ruapehu region. The three volcanoes that dominate the North Island's central plateau almost always have a bit of snow on them. When it melts, it starts as a trickle, gathering speed and momentum as it flows. Small tributaries find each other, and fed by rain they become streams, and then mighty torrents. The water is crisp and chilly, but clear and clean and occasionally drinkable.
The rivers are treated with care and respect. Ben and the other river guides regularly take a barge to pick up road cones and tyres that have fallen in and snagged on branches. The locals are zealous about picking up any rubbish they see. An empty crisp bag dropped on the ground will eventually find its way to water, and nobody is willing to let the rivers choke.
Kayaing on the Whananui River.
All manner of creatures rely on the rivers for survival, such as the critically endangered whio duck, which raise families around fast flowing rapids. White-water rafting down the Tongariro River, we came across a mother and some ducklings. We watched them paddle and bob in the shallows, completely indifferent to the bedraggled visitors in their midst.
Nearer to the volcanoes, the rivers are narrow and swift. As you walk the tracks in the foothills, they make a cheerful trickling sound in the background. They are the target of many of the treks. Only an hour's walk from Whakapapa Village, at the base of Mt Ruapehu, are the Taranaki Falls. At the top of the falls is a narrow ledge that juts out — bait for fools, like myself, who can't resist a good photo. The water rushes into a narrow gap in the cliffs and hurls itself into space, crashing into the pool 20m below and producing a fine, cool mist. To feel the mist on your face after a walk in the sun is the perfect reward for arriving.
The main goal of any activity on a river is to not fall in, to master the currents and rapids.
When I was tipped out, I felt no annoyance, or loss over my sunnies. Rather, it was a moment of elation. The challenge of the river had been faced and, while I had been beaten, in defeat I could lie back and look up at the steep river banks, birds flitting through the trees, clouds drifting in the blue sky. The aftermath of adrenalin heightened the serene beauty. This is what I came here for.
Activities aplenty
RIDE
The Old Coach Road track starts at the gates of the legendary Horopito Motor Wreckers, also known as Smash Palace. From there, the ride covers dirt tracks through native bush, and sections of cobblestones that used to be the only way for horses and carts to get through. It's manageable for beginners, but experts will still find sections to challenge themselves on.
The Tongariro Crossing is just one of the many walks around the three peaks. And with car parking spaces at the start of the crossing limited, other walks leaving from Whakapapa Village offer different sights and challenges. A casual walk through the manuka bushes to the Taranaki Falls is a half day well spent.
EAT
After a hard day adventuring, recovery food is all important. A burger and a craft beer from The Blind Finch Hamburgeria in Ohakune will do the trick. The food is hearty and creative, and it's one of the few places to try Ohakune's own Little Thief beer.
CHECKLIST
Accommodation The Powderhorn Chateau, Ohakune. A wood-panelled ski chalet with warmth and character.
Details Whanganui River flows gently off Mount Tongariro so the paddling is easy and relaxed.
