Whakapapa's refurbished Grand Chateau retains old world charm

By CATHY OMBLER

That lounge. That window. That view. In many visits over more years than I'm starting to care to remember, the grand Tongariro Lounge of the Grand Chateau has never disappointed.

Sinking into a deep red sofa beneath a sparkling chandelier, taking in the view of the volcanoes Ngauruhoe and Tongariro framed in the giant lounge window, the only sounds the quiet click of billiard balls, or perhaps a guest gently tickling the ivories of the old grand piano that seems dwarfed in this grand-sized room of old world ambience and opulence ... it is indeed a "grand" experience.

I've called here many times, at the end of a day's tramping or skiing in Tongariro National Park, or when camping just up the road, to sip a cool beer in summer, a hot chocolate in winter, once to smile as my young daughters, their eyes popping, were handed a plate of chips by a waistcoated waiter, sauce in a silver jug of course.

One of the special things about the Grand Chateau (referred to by Kiwis as simply the Chateau) is how this magnificent lounge has always been open to all and sundry, not only hotel guests.

Management over the years has been adamant about this, and thus calling in casually to the Chateau has become a part of our heritage.

On my last visit, however, I went one delightful step further. I came to stay.

Venturing upstairs into the inner sanctum of the 73-year-old hotel, I wondered a little anxiously just how "old world" my room might be. There was no cause for concern.

The carpet, curtains, bathroom, bedding and lighting had all been recently refurbished and upgraded. In fact, a refurbishment of the entire hotel is nearing completion. Yet the ambience remains.

In past years the Chateau has suffered a little "tiredness" from time to time.

The hotel was built in 1929, at the whim of Prime Minister Gordon Coates, to replicate the big chateau-style tourist hotels of the Canadian Pacific Railways.

However, upkeep of such a remote and major infrastructure, through tourism booms and busts, world war, volcanic eruptions and uncertain snow seasons, has been a challenge.

Those chequered days are now history. Today the Chateau is independently owned - and loved - and the management recognises the need, as in any hotel, to upgrade and modernise yet maintain the property's very special character.

The other major recognition by management in recent years has been that Tongariro National Park is not just a winter snow playground but a magnificent, year-round destination.

Thus the hotel now caters to summertime visitors, offering activities such as golf, tennis and guided walks on the plethora of National Park tracks just outside the Chateau's door.

Gone are the days when only the winter ski season filled the hotel and staff were paid off for the summer. Last year the hotel averaged 70 per cent occupancy throughout the year, and January was its second busiest month.

The mountains were bashful the day I arrived to stay, hiding behind a thick veil of cloud and rain with a wind that blew direct from the last of the season's snow. It was a blessing, really - such inclemency provided the perfect excuse to enjoy the Chateau's indoor treats, and explore the National Park visitor centre a few metres up the road in Whakapapa Village.

Like the Chateau, the visitor centre has also been recently upgraded and updated. Information panels, interactive computer displays and two superb audio-visuals graphically depict the historical and cultural significance of Tongariro, and the fiery forces of nature that created these mountains.

Back to my Chateau home, via a hearty lunch and latte at the cosy Pihanga Cafe. I spent the rest of the rainy day making important decisions.

In what order, and for how long, should I watch the US Tennis Open on Sky television in my room, work out in the fitness centre, sweat in the spa, soak in the heated pool tucked away in the bowels of the building, and watch one of the three early-evening movies before sipping a cocktail in that magnificent lounge and going in for dinner in the Ruapehu Room.

Next morning, the drawing of my bedroom curtains revealed a mountain panorama, a glistening Ruapehu, looking all the better, I suspect, for having hidden the day before.

Time for a walk, and again, as seems to be the pattern around this place, I was spoiled for choice. I opted for the Taranaki Falls, an easy wander out across tussock-covered slopes, across meandering mountain streams, through pockets of beech forest, great mountain vistas all around, to see the falls cascading over a dark and ancient lava flow.

After lunch I headed uphill, crossed a boardwalk over an alpine wetland and climbed gently through subalpine shrubs to the Silica Rapids, yet another feature of this very interesting and diverse volcanic mountain landscape.

The Chateau staff followed my walking progress and were keen for feedback.

They suggested I return later in summer to explore further, and described more short walks, longer walks, alpine climbs and, for the really hot days, swimming holes at Tawhai Falls and Mahuia Rapids.

"They're very refreshing," they promised.

That'll be fine, with spa and heated pool for back-up.

* Overall rating 9/10

Chateau restaurants

Over the years restaurant services have come and gone at the Chateau. Today, management seems to have at last created the right mix. Service standards have lifted, waiting and bar staff are as professional as - and possibly friendlier than - many of their city colleagues.

The Ruapehu Room is a traditional, fine-dining restaurant. Evening mains are in the high-$20 range - for example, pan-fried eye fillet and sauteed duck liver, $29.50 - or guests could go romantic and share a classic "Chateau Briand" for $67. Entrees are around $13 (ostrich carpaccio and pickled vegetable salad recommended) and desserts around $8. Buffet breakfasts ($21 fully cooked) are offered daily.

The Pihanga Cafe is more casual, less pricey, licensed and open daily for lunch and dinner. Mains are between $14 and $16, hearty and generous. Try the vegetable enchilada, or sizzle platter, Asian style (huge). Panini burgers, fries and side salads will keep the kids happy.

The Grand Chateau operates two other eateries in Whakapapa Village - Fergusons Cafe (casual fare) and Whakapapa Tavern (pizzeria and grill meals).

Beverages and snacks are available in the Ruapehu Lounge.

A full room-service menu is available 24 hours a day.

Case notes

The Grand Chateau, Whakapapa, Mt Ruapehu, Tongariro National Park, ph 0800 CHATEAU, email reservations@chateau.co.nz

Tariff: (based on two people) suite $450; premium room $195 (sleeps four); standard room $155 (sleeps two); economy room $125 (sleeps two); self-contained family chalets are also available for $147 (sleeps four) or $175 (sleeps six).

Specials: Celebration package - premium room, champagne, chocolates, three-course dinner with wine - $360 a couple a night.

Tongariro Trek package - four nights' accommodation, all meals, guided treks to Crater Lake, Tongariro Crossing and shorter walks, $1215 a person.

Getting there: By road, Whakapapa is four hours' drive, via Taumarunui or Taupo, from Auckland.

By train, National Park station is 18km from Whakapapa. Complimentary guest transport is available. Tranz Rail's Overlander departs Auckland 8.30am and arrives National Park 1.53pm daily. The Northerner departs Auckland 8.40pm and arrives National Park 2.07am. Chateau staff will meet guests by arrangement for the 2.07 service - there are no taxi services at the train station early in the morning.

By air, Taupo Airport is just over an hour's drive from Whakapapa. Coach transport available from the airport to Whakapapa.

Wheelchair access throughout, plus one room has been upgraded for wheelchair-restricted guests.

Children are welcome and family groups are well catered for - heated pool, games room, daily movies, high-chairs and so on.

Smoking and non-smoking rooms are available.

Special features: The Grand Chateau sits in the stunning natural environment of New Zealand's first national park and the world's first dual World Heritage Area. Short walks and alpine crossings, guided or independent, encompassing the mountains, forests, waterfalls, lakes and volcanic landscapes, leave from the hotel's doorstep.

The hotel offers a nine-hole golf course ($10 club hire and $9 green fees), tennis courts, indoor heated pool, sauna, fitness centre, massage, games room, daily movies, choice of restaurants, sense of heritage - and of course that stunning lounge.

Tongariro National Park visitor centre is open 8am to 6pm (summer hours), audio visuals are $5 for two, $1.50 for children.

National Park books, maps and gifts are for sale.