Welcome to the Sound of silence

By TONY BRUNT

Within Fiordland National Park's 1.2 million hectares lies some of the most pristine, spectacular countryside imaginable. The trouble is, its ruggedness makes exploring it extremely difficult.

Fortunately, along its western coastline nature has created 14 fiords that snake their way inland, allowing relatively easy access to the heartland - provided you have a boat.

If you have a penchant for adventure, have some sea kayaking experience, don't mind camping rough and can tolerate long hours paddling without respite, then a five-day, guided, expedition-style trip is an ideal way to explore the largest of the fiords, Dusky Sound.

For those who consider camping akin to visiting the dentist and the thought of spending hours sitting on a wet seat twirling a paddle about your head enough to cause nightmares, there are cruises available that will insure your comfort isn't compromised by the harsh environment you travel through.

The trip begins with a 25-minute helicopter flight from Te Anau, which skirts Lake Manapouri, before plunging deep into Fiordland by following the Spey River from West Arm, over Centre Pass and down the Seaforth River to Supper Cove, at the head of Dusky Sound.

The short, effortless flight belies the true distance. It's not until our guide, Ron, explains that the walk to West Arm, the nearest civilisation, would take four days, that it registers how reliant we are on the helicopter to get us out - something of a lottery, considering Fiordland's penchant for heavy rain.

Let's be honest, though, Dusky's remoteness and rugged beauty are precisely what makes this trip so attractive. The dense bush has a primeval feel to it and evokes the feeling that we are the first humans to set foot here. In truth, though, many people, from Maori to sealers, prospectors to our first bird ranger, Richard Henry who lived for 15 years on Pigeon Island, have lived in Dusky Sound over the past 200 years.

Our ultimate destination was Third Cove in Breaksea Sound, the next sound to the north of Dusky. This allowed us three days to explore Dusky's myriad waterways and islands, to see seals, watch dolphins and get a feel for the sound before heading north to Goose Cove and across the small isthmus between Five Fingers Peninsula and Resolution Island to Woodhen Cove. And we had a quick scurry along the exposed coast to Breaksea Sound, where we spent the night on the beach in Disappointment Cove.

On what was supposed to be our last day we cruised down Breaksea in the rain to try to rendezvous with our helicopter in Third Cove. But poor weather delayed the helicopter for two days and while frustrating (I did a lot of pacing), it was made bearable by being with a fun group and having a comfortable sandfly shelter to hide from those pesky little bloodsuckers. Delays such as this are not uncommon, so it's advisable to have a flexible diary, and take extra food and a few good books.

This trip expands the comfort zone, teaches patience and self reliance, builds friendships and challenges you both physically and emotionally.

When you look at the map afterwards you can't help but be proud of what you have achieved in five days, and think, "Wow, I paddled all that way." Believe me, it makes it all worthwhile.

Casenotes

CRUISING: Trips depend on demand, so get a group together and explore. A combination cruise and sea kayak trip is also offered where the boat is used as a base.

CONTACTS: Fiordland Wilderness Experiences, (03) 249 7700. Website Fiordland Sea Kayak or e-mail fiordland.sea.kayak@clear.net.nz

For winter discovery cruises aboard the Milford Wander contact Fiordland Travel on 0800 65 65 03.