KEY POINTS:
The luxurious Huka Lodge is not only an impressive place to stay but also provides a great introduction to trout fishing.
The dark shape lurking at the bottom of the pool in the Waitahanui Stream was clearly a big old trout. With a few delicate flicks of the rod I dropped the line with its tasty looking fly just upstream and waited for the current to drift it down. Would the trout take the bait? If not, what would we have for lunch?
That's the kind of tricky challenge you can face as Travel Editor. It wouldn't be everyone's cup of Earl Grey to have to drive down to Taupo, go fishing, bring back a nice fat trout, watch while the executive chef at Huka Lodge turned the fish into a delicious meal, and then eat it.
So it wasn't the sort of assignment it would be fair to delegate ... even though the outing was going to be a quite a challenge.
For a start, it was supposed to be a father-and-son weekend - but I have no sons (I was lucky enough to have daughters). The focus was on trout fishing - and I've never tried flyfishing. And at a posh place like Huka Lodge, the haunt of royals and billionaires, you feel you should arrive in a Rolls-Royce with a row of Louis Vuitton suitcases - but the best I could offer was a Honda Jazz with a battered little nylon bag in the back.
I solved the first difficulty by drafting son-in-law Dean as an honorary son. Huka Lodge dealt with the second by arranging flyfishing lessons with Chris Jolly Outdoors. And the third was never an issue.
As soon as we pulled up outside we were greeted by smiling faces. "Welcome. Come in. Just leave the keys in the ignition. We'll put your luggage in your rooms and park the car. Come and have a drink."
A refreshing cup of tea later, we were taken up to the magnificent Owner's Cottage and, sure enough, there was the car parked outside and on the huge luggage shelf in my giant dressing room my wee case sat in solitary splendour.
It's quite difficult to describe Huka Lodge. Certainly it's luxurious, occupies a magnificent site on the banks of the Waikato River, and the service is superb. But unlike some places at which I've stayed, it isn't ostentatiously opulent. It's more like the comfortable home of a rich man who likes to entertain and has interesting tastes.
And, of course, the Owner's Cottage, where we were staying, is exactly that - the place where Huka Lodge owner Alex van Heeren stays when he's in town - and no doubt because of that, it has a relaxed feel.
It's a pity we didn't bring wives and children/grandchildren because with four bedrooms, a kitchen and several living areas there's plenty of room, and the kids would have been free to run around without bothering other guests.
But for the moment there wasn't time to savour the ambience because our fishing guide, Dave Wood, was waiting with licences, spare boots, waders, rods and flies to take us to a quiet pool on the Waitahanui Stream for a spot of casting.
This turned out to be easier than I'd expected and before long both of us were flicking our lines backwards and forwards in the air, dropping the flies pretty much in the right place, adjusting the line to match the speed of the current and watching the indicator for any sign of a strike. "Nice," said Dave as he watched my efforts. "Sweet." What a lovely guy.
Sure, there's a lot more to troutfishing than a few casts, not least spotting where the trout are, selecting the correct lure and learning how to keep the fish on the line when it strikes.
But, heck, who cares? Here we were on a beautiful, crisp, sunny day, standing in a glorious, bush-lined stream, crystal-clear water gurgling around our legs, the birds singing above, in tune with the rhythm of the river and feeling at one with nature.
Of course Dean, a notorious show-off, had to land a trout first time out, but fortunately it was undersized so he had to put it back. I had a few strikes but they tended to come while I was concentrating on feeding out more line ... and anyway, somehow it felt as though catching a fish would shatter the tranquillity. Plus there was always tomorrow.
Back at the Owner's Cottage a bottle had been left to cool in an ice bucket, the chairs in the huge living room were soft, and it was easy to sit back, relax, sup some wine, admire the eclectic mix of art on the walls and watch the river out the front racing towards Huka Falls.
Then it was time to stroll down the secret pathway to the main lodge, enjoy a drink and a chat with the other guests, followed by the set five-course dinner.
One of the lodge's features is an array of places where you can eat, ranging from a communal table in the dining room to secluded nooks for two, like the cosy outdoor setting in front of a roaring fireplace where we found ourselves.
Ah, what could be more conducive to father-in-law/son-in-law bonding than sitting beside a fire, eating fine food, drinking fine wine and chatting about life, times and trout fishing while the stars twinkle overhead and the river chortles just below? Hmm, hard to say, but relaxing after dinner in the riverside spa pool in front of the Owner's Cottage might be even better.
Either way, after all that fun I slept marvellously in the super-king-sized bed which, I fondly imagined, would have been the one the Queen used when she stayed there, and dreamed of catching trout.
And, next morning, Huka Lodge did its best to make the dream come true. A car took us to the lake where the sun shone brilliantly from a clear sky, the air was pleasantly cool, the surface was like a mirror and a boat awaited. "A great day for catching trout," said Henry Crust, our amiable skipper, as he set up two rods, using downriggers to take the lures to around 25m.
I explained that we were really keen to get a fish because Huka Lodge's executive chef Twan Tijers would show us how to prepare it for lunch. "No pressure," said Henry, with a confident smile.
After a while without a strike the phone rang. It was the lodge with advice on what to do with the trout when we caught it. "No pressure," said Henry, his smile a bit less confident.
There had still been no strike when the phone rang again and it was Henry's boss, Chris Jolly, wanting to check how many trout we had caught. "We're struggling a bit," he admitted, and the pressure was definitely on.
But then our luck changed. I got a strike on my rod. Dean hauled in a fish that was just undersized (oh, bad luck). And right at the end I caught another.
Back at the lodge, Twan had his pans ready and, as he expertly filleted, skinned and de-boned our trout (using pliers) he explained he was going to show us how to cook it three ways: hot-smoked, pan-fried and sushimi.
Half-an hour later and Dean and I were relaxing in the lodge's book-lined study after learning how to cook all the trout we'll be catching in the future, seated before platters which were tasty works of art.
Heading home afterwards - replete with apples and bottles of water provided by the lodge for our journey - I mused on a great weekend.
As you'd expect, given the fact that it is consistently named as one of the best lodges in the world, Huka Lodge is a special place. But what particularly impressed me was the comfortable atmosphere and the way the staff made guests welcome.
The average Kiwi might feel it is a bit beyond them - and it's not cheap - but you can stay there for close to half-price in winter, it's a great place for a special occasion, and they certainly ensure you feel at home ... even if you don't arrive in a Roller.
The only disappointment is that I didn't actually get a trout. Oh, sorry, did you think I caught the trout we ate? No. The first one on my line spat the hook out as it came up to the boat.
And the second was the size of a sprat. Good old Henry nipped up to his house and got one from the fridge for us to cook.
Checklist: Hula Lodge
Where To Find It
Huka Lodge is just north of Taupo on the banks of the Waikato River.
Staying There
Until September 30 the lodge is offering special winter rates including an Escape Package of two nights' accommodation, a bottle of methode traditionelle on arrival, pre-dinner drinks, a bottle of wine, two five-course dinners, two breakfasts and a three-course lunch, plus one massage and one facial for each couple, a two-hour trout fishing trip or green fees for two at Wairakei International Golf Course, for $890 plus GST a person a night.
Further Information
See www.hukaretreats.com or call (07) 378 5791.
