Walk this way in the Bay

By GERALDINE MCMANUS

Walking in the Bay of Plenty provides the best of both worlds - verdant bushclad trails alongside lakes and seaside unspoiled by resorts Added to this are trails that pass pa sites and the results of extraordinary geological events, as well as beachside cafes.

The increasing popularity of walking as recreation has brought about the growth of companies such as Tramplite Walks at Edgecumbe. The three-day experience is a combination of walks put together by keen tramper Maureen Baker.

Each day Baker ferries walkers to the start of tracks; she moves their bags, and picks them up at the end of the day. During the day she organises walks and prepares dinner. Walkers just put on their boots and go for it.

The walks range from easy to moderate. Day one is 15km alongside Lake Okataina and Lake Tarawera, day two is 10km of the Nga Tapuwae O Toi (Footprints of Toi) Walkway and day three is an easy amble around the coastal walkway of Kohi Pt between Whakatane and Ohope with time for a swim.

We checked into Baker's home the first night, dumped our gear and pored over the portfolio of snaps of other happy trampers.

After dinner, Baker briefed us on the first day's walk, explaining each section, hills, and places to stop for breaks. We packed our lunches and filled water bottles in anticipation.

Early next morning we piled into the van for the drive to Okataina.

The Tarawera area is historic, not only for the eruption which altered the landscape in 1886, but also its early Maori settlement. Small villages dotted the shores and the mountains well before Europeans arrived.

New Zealand tourism began in the area with the attraction of the pink and white terraces.

The track is through bush with occasional glimpses of the lake, glimmering in the sunlight. The bush foliage was green from recent rains. Ponga fronds were fresh and unfolding.

One of the group was a serious geologist and words tumbled out describing the various rock formations along the way. I tried hard to remember the specialised descriptions but gave up. My interest is the visual feast of trees, leaves and light.

Extraordinary-sized boulders, some as big as two-storeyed houses, must have been airborne in the blast. Now these stand where they fell as though carved by sculptors.

The volcanic eruption must also have wiped out the trees of this forest heritage. Regenerating for the past 117 years, much of the bush canopy shows its immaturity in comparison with the patches of ancient podocarp forests of nearby Whirinaki and Urewera.

Primitive ferns add a charm beside the track. Near the end of the day we walked through a magical Middle-earth landscape of lichen and moss from which slim tree trunks rose.

The outlet of Lake Tarawera was our destination. Civilisation - one boat at the jetty, a camping ground with two tents and a conservation warden's home hidden in the bush.

A swing bridge provides access to the camping ground and a good swimming hole. I had packed my swimming gear for just this moment.

It's possible to continue walking along the Tarawera River to where it plunges in and out of the cliffs and volcanic strata with amazing waterfalls.

Day two of the Nga Tapuwae O Toi Walkway is easily accessible, starting close to Ohope's main road. The walkway winds over the hills between Ohope and Whakatane, traversing a diverse landscape of ancient pohutukawa, planted forests and rural farmland. It's also significant historical land.

Nga Tapuwae O Toi was the heart of early Maori leader Toi's region.

Oral traditions tell of legendary voyagers and great tribes that once settled in this area.

The track passes by Ka-pu-Terangi, the pa of gentle breezes, one of the oldest known pa sites in New Zealand.

An outstanding valley, a cathedral of ancient trees, pukatea, tawa and puriri was especially memorable. Overhead the canopy closed out the blue skies, below the soil was rich with the humus of 1000 years. Boardwalks are laid to protect the roots of the magnificent trees.

The walk ends in an area called the birdwalk. Protected and regenerating bushland is home to many birds and these too are carefully encouraged and managed.

We packed our swimsuits and sunblock for the final day's hike - combining the walk with some summer sun and surfing. Ohope is well known by surfies for its breaks.

The Kohi Pt Walkway is edged by wind-blown coastal trees, palms and flaxes. In places we need to walk single file along narrow tracks edging the cliff. Spectacular sea vistas are breathtaking - out over Whakatane to Moutohora Island on one side, then after rounding the point the views stretch towards Ohope and beyond.

I am a water person. To me, it's part of being a New Zealander. Living and having grown up on islands, I enjoy being near water - the ocean, lake or river.

Walking is the fresh adventure. Three days of tiredness, three days of great company, three days of exploring on foot, at one with the land.

I recommend it.

* Geraldine McManus was a paying walker, part of a group of nine.

Case notes

Who to contact


Tramplite Walks

ph (07) 304 9893

or fax (07) 304 9102

email: maureen.baker@tramplitewalks.co.nz

What it costs

Three-day walk (includes accommodation, luggage moved on, transport to and from the tracks where necessary, and meals): $280 a person, $260 a person for groups of five to 10.

What is required

* a reasonable degree of fitness

* a day pack and drink bottle

* warm clothing

* rainwear

* sleeping bag

* sturdy footwear