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Home / Travel

Waiheke: Island idyll on the city's doorstep

By Greg Fleming
NZ Herald·
2 Jun, 2008 05:00 PM4 mins to read

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Sculptures by Phil Price at Cable Bay Vineyard. Photo / Dean Purcell

Sculptures by Phil Price at Cable Bay Vineyard. Photo / Dean Purcell

KEY POINTS:

An informal poll around the office confirmed a sneaking suspicion: Aucklanders take Waiheke Island for granted. Many recalled idyllic weekend retreats there as children but few had made the half-hour trip recently.

It's a shame because Waiheke offers so much - beaches, cafes, walks, art, vineyards and sightseeing
- so close to home. It is also rumoured to have a climate that is five degrees warmer than the mainland - perfect for the winter. And there's no doubt it has a laidback island vibe.

Overseas visitors flock here. Billy Connolly featured Connell's Bay Sculpture Park on his televised road trip series. The park links art and nature by locating site-specific local sculpture in a 24ha coastal property full of native trees. The two-hour guided walk featuring amazing views across the Hauraki Gulf is highly recommended.

Art is everywhere on Waiheke - a hangover perhaps from the 70s when the island became a refuge for self-styled beatniks, eccentrics and hippies. Call in at the visitor information centre to find out about the Waiheke Art and Craft Trail, which includes more than 30 studios and galleries.

Wine is plentiful too. Vineyards were first established on the island in the early 1970s as the island's hot, dry climate makes it ideal for grape-growing. Today Waiheke has 26 vineyards and most are open to the public, with many offering cafe facilities and tasting rooms.

Cable Bay Vineyard is one. It was described as a "must-visit stop" by Cuisine Magazine last year. It has a European-inspired menu that uses the best local seasonal produce in dishes that combine bold, rustic flavours with contemporary technique.

Artwork by leading New Zealand sculptors, painters and photographers is featured throughout the restaurant and property while the grounds surrounding the complex have working vineyards, olive groves, native plantings, and stunning views over Motukaha Island. .

Walk off your indulgences on one of the many walkways that meander through bush, beach and reserve. Alternatively, cars, scooters, kayaks, mopeds or bicycles are available for hire on the island, while the recent new Sealink weekend car and passenger service from Auckland City means you can BYO car.

Get back in time for dinner and the only problem will be choosing where. The best restaurants over here have the great food and service of Auckland's fine dining establishments but they also offer breathtaking island and sea views.

Te Whau Restaurant, on the top level of the popular winery with gorgeous views out to Rangitoto and Auckland, is open for lunch throughout the year and dinner in the summer. It was considered one of the 13 finest winery restaurants in the world by Wine International magazine in 2004.

Plenty of packaged explorer tours are available, as are activities ranging from paintball to adventure sailing. But Waiheke is also a great place to just sit back and do very little.

The office may be only 20km away but the worries and stress of urban life start to evaporate on the ferry ride over. You start to realise why more and more Aucklanders are living full-time here.

Abby is one. She shifted to the island in February.

"I love the relaxed atmosphere of Waiheke," she says, "it feels like you're in a small community but you're still so close to the city."

The daily ferry commute to her job in the city is one of the highlights of her day and she is looking forward to her first full summer on the island.

Abby is part of a growing trend. The population today is nearing 10,000 and that swells to more than 30,000 in the peak season.

But despite the growth Waiheke has kept its laidback rural charm. It's the sort of place where you can stick your thumb out and someone will stop and give you a lift. People smile and say hello.

By far the most popular destinations on the island are the beaches. Waiheke has 40km of safe, stunning, sandy beaches, many framed by pohutukawa trees. The majority of good swimming beaches are on the north side of the island. With its ever-present breeze, Surfdale is a favourite spot for windsurfers.

Head east when you've had your fill of surf and explore Stony Batter's tunnels, rock outcrops and gun sites that date back to World War II.

And be on the lookout for special winter rates which make Waiheke the perfect spot for a cosy weekend getaway.

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