Voyage of discovery at the Auckland Hilton

Auckland's newest hotel is like a cruise ship, without the ghastly co-cruisers, and with one of the best restaurants in town, writes CARROLL DU CHATEAU

The very idea of the new Hilton Hotel, shaped like the prow of a gleaming white ship on piles sunk 42m into the seabed, is exciting. This is as near to the ocean as you can stay without a chance of wetting your feet or boarding one of those cruise ships and risking cabin fever among throngs of elderly revellers.

We approached the hotel down the west side of Princes Wharf, parked the car in the pay-and-display spaces ($6 for two hours, but better than valet parking at $25 overnight) and walked up the steps into the foyer. Later I noticed that others who knew their way round drove up the eastern side of the wharf, round the prow of the hotel and in, but it didn't seem to matter.

The entrance, flanked by gloved and greatcoated young doormen, is imposing, very five-star. There's a high atrium, dominated by a black wall shimmering with a continuous stream of water, while ahead, straight through the glass to the other side of the wharf, I can see the Devonport ferry all lit up and making its way out to the harbour. The smell is salty. The air damp.

In fact at the Hilton, and probably it's something to do with the stark white decor, the pervading feeling is one of space, even emptiness. At six on a Friday night the foyer is bare, save the shouts and end-of-week chortles billowing from the Bellini bar on the ground floor.

We decided to skip the drink, sign in and move right along to our room. After a bewildering array of specials, we had decided on the White Night deal, which offers dinner for two plus a deluxe room facing the water and the lights of Devonport for $370 a night. Other options included the Weekend Package (breakfast, champagne, drinks, candle and bath bomb) for $400, the bed and breakfast deal at $320 or the room only for $348.

I figured, given that we had to experience at least one meal at the hands of celebrity chef Luke Mangan, specially imported from Sydney to oversee the hotel's White restaurant, that the White Night package offered the best value for money.

We chose well. On checking in we were given a letter stating that "your dinner to the value of $60 per person will be served on the first-floor White restaurant". Even someone with my elementary maths can work out the deal reduced our rate to $250. A bargain.

So, up to the room for a quick freshen-up before dinner. To my relief no one showed us up (hate that unseemly scrabbling round for a tip). Instead, we took the lift, negotiating the narrow, ship-like corridors and grumbling about the fashion for donkey brown carpet and walls ("we call them aubergine"), and let ourselves in.

Deluxe doesn't mean huge at the Hilton. What it does mean is a king-sized bed, light-as-goose-down duvets (but sadly the feather pillows are wrapped in foam), white-on-white decor, including cappuccino-coloured chintz curtains, pristine white waffle cotton robes (that don't make you look fat like the towelling variety do), an iron and board (heaven forbid), a bathroom mirror that didn't steam up, and, best of all, a balcony wide enough to fit two wooden slatted deckchairs.

Had it been summer we would have just stretched out and enjoyed the evening. As it was, we headed down to sample the marvels of White, which sits in the prow of the hotel, looking north across the harbour.

I'd heard varying reports. Some said the decor was too cold and stark. Others that the restaurant was hideously expensive. We found it neither, though the wine was marked up too highly in my opinion. I especially like the mother-of-pearl tiled pillars and the long table with its high chairs, which someone explained was modelled on a diving board. In summer they will open the sliding windows to the patio with its tables and chairs stretching almost to the sea.

Mindful of the time (we were off to a show), we decided on an early main course followed by coffee and dessert when we returned later. The relaxed waiting staff didn't bat an eyelid at our idea - indeed they brought us two complimentary hors-d'oeuvres instead to keep us happy. The first was a chilled beetroot soup with a swirl of horseradish served in a shot glass, the second a large medallion of smoked salmon sprinkled with feta and chopped spring onion and a warm roll of the stretchiest bread I've had since France. Perfect. Our meal of scallops served with noodles was exquisite, too. More than a dozen scallops each for our $31 - and cooked perfectly so they stayed tender and moist. Our only complaint: the bottle of Mt Riley Riesling - at $45 the least expensive on the list - was served a little too cold.

Soon, happy and replete, we dashed into the night and up to the Maidment.

At 10.30 when we arrived back Bellini's was rocking but White, which we had been assured was fully booked, was almost empty. We rescued our bottle of wine, ordered cappuccino and ordered dessert to share. At this stage I could have done with something a little more down-home - sort of stodgy and sinful but it all seemed a little nouvelle for that. We settled on the panna cotta served with rhubarb compote for $14.50 (as were all the desserts on offer). Again delicious - and not remotely rich. Although we ate lots, I think the calorie count for our dinner was probably quite low, which is a good thing if you travel a lot.

And so to bed, which was, as I said before, big and, though firm, remarkably soft. I woke at dawn as the first sunlight beamed from behind Browns Island and snuck out in the robe to enjoy dawn on the balcony. The Herald arrived mysteriously in a snazzy plastic pouch, then it was work, work, work as we tried every gadget the room had to offer. I can reveal that the hairdryer (tucked away in a cotton bag) was in excellent order, the shampoo, hair conditioner, shoe shine, all of top quality; the makeup mirror too kind - and the view out to Devonport and Rangitoto a slice of what Auckland is all about.

Those with more time could try a dip in the lap pool suspended between two buildings with a glass wall in front so you feel as though you could swim straight out to sea, check out the gym or try a spa at Servilles at the Shed next door. Instead, we meandered through the Viaduct, stopping at Rockfords for coffee and muffins, and totted up our complaints.

It was a short list: local calls cost $1 each, the White Night meal deal doesn't include wine (but they let us off because nothing, including our introductory letter, mentioned it) and parking is expensive.

We used a city carpark, but beware of special "weekend" prices. The small print often seems to double the price.

Overall the Hilton was a treat. Spectacular views, great service, not at all formulaic. Recommended.

*Next week: Life goes undercover and puts Auckland's other spanking new hotel, the Spencer on Byron, through its paces.