There's more to Viti Levu than meets the eye. Video: ATTA / Ulrika Larsson / Cédric Jean-Baptiste / Kristen Kellogg
There is much, much more to Fiji than coconut cocktails and infinity pools, writes Varsha Anjali.
I was born in Viti Levu. I thought I knew Fiji’s mainland. But I was wrong.
What I had in mind for holidaymakers was that blissful island paradise: staying at a beautiful luxury resort, drinking piña coladas on the beach, slouching on a hammock by a coconut tree – and perhaps never really leaving said resort – a delicious antidote to a weary soul.
Fiji is well-known for this relaxing flop-and-drop holiday. But for some – like me, tourist-ing in my home country – pampering isn’t the goal. Instead, the appeal lies in raw adventure. The kind that embraces dirt over massages.
Fiji is pivoting in this direction, embarking on what the Adventure Travel Trade Association called a “transformative shift” in the sustainable adventure tourism industry. In the South Pacific region, no one does better than Fiji in this space according to the 2024 Adventure Tourism Development Index report (apart from more developed countries like New Zealand and Australia).
If you’re seeking exciting activities on the largest island in Fiji – experiences that get the adrenaline going while supporting the wellbeing of locals and the environment – these are the ones to pursue.
Upper Navua River Rafting
River rafting in the highlands of Viti Levu was a unique experience. Photo / ATTA / Cedric Jean-Baptiste
Deep within the remote highlands of Viti Levu are majestic, moss-covered rock faces, ancient and grand, with countless waterfalls and rapids.
It was akin to the iconic scenery of somewhere like Vietnam or Thailand – those towering black cliffs and lush greenery. I didn’t know Fiji looked like this. Yet there I was, paddling on that river, that life force, brand new.
Rivers Fiji have been operating for almost three decades so they know their stuff, which was fantastic news to me because when it came to river rafting, I was a virgin. They picked us up from our hotel in the morning and drove along the coastal highway until we reached our destination. We had delicious homemade banana bread prepared for us by the women of the village, before receiving a detailed safety briefing, helmets, lifejackets and oars.
Then we went down the rapids. To my delight – nay, relief – they were only grades 2-3. Our guide Tobia Matavura was a knight: educating us about the river and local customs while making us cry with laughter. We stood under a cascading waterfall and it was energising. Cold but energising. A virgin no more.
Traversing through the forests and sand dunes of Sigatoka's national park. Photo / ATTA / Cedric Jean-Baptiste
Sigatoka, Fiji’s “rugby town”, is full of quiet villages along the river it was named after. But on its fringes is something truly unique. A golden wave of sand vignetted by lush greenery meets wild ocean waves. We got a glimpse of the colourful golden whistler and the collared lory as it fluttered past, both endemic to Fiji.
This is Fiji’s first national park. Here, the native tree species have adapted uniquely to the moving sands. There are geckos, fruit bats, non-venomous snakes and two walking trails, one short and one long. There are also remnants of an ancient civilisation, offering clues to the lives of the first people to settle in Fiji. Several pottery shards were found at archaeological sites here with origins believed to be of the Lapita people – a civilisation dating from around 3500 years ago. Some remnants are on display at the park’s visitor centre. The Lisa Simpson inside me hit the jackpot.
The country is susceptible to climate threats. Here, rangers use traditional methods to build coastal resilience. Teepees of varying sizes made out of tree branches line the beach. Our ranger explained that it serves as a natural sea wall and helps prevent coastal erosion when the sand builds up on the teepee and vegetation begins to grow over it.
Mangrove kayaking in Tailevu, Fiji. Photo / ATTA /Cedric Jean-Baptiste
I admit, I was nervous. The water was a deep jade, so deep it was basically black. But the water colour wasn’t the only thing that was unusual to me. It was also very warm – spa-level warm. My irrational fear of this brooding liquid and its unknowns was rearing its stupid head. My guide, on the other hand, grinned the biggest grin and assured me there was nothing dangerous in there. I believed him.
And so I – we – paddled. It was a twisty, narrow waterway with sneaky paths framed by tilting mangrove branches, but thankfully, our guides knew this place – land and waters – like the back of their hand. I was clearly the weakest link in this Jurassic haunt, unable to paddle in a straight line, lagging way behind and hitting the branches. I was okay with that.
This place still bore the wounds of Cyclone Winston. Our guides spoke of creating this kayaking tour to provide the local village, Nataleira, with income after it was completely decimated in 2016. Here, it is forbidden to chop down mangroves, which provide locals with so much food and resources, particularly mud crabs. The villagers cleared up the debris and devastation themselves. It took them two years.
We made a pitstop and one thousand mosquitos tasted me but it was okay because I got to plant a native tree. Pro tip: treat mosquito repellent like an heirloom from your great-great-grandma. It must be on you at all times.
The linckia blue sea star is a showstopper. Photo / ATTA / Cedric Jean-Baptiste
The aptly named Moon Reef is shaped like a crescent moon – or a croissant, depending on your preference (croissant is mine on weekends) – and sits off the coast of Tailevu. It has only two narrow openings, meaning large predators are naturally locked out and its resident spinner dolphins have their own safe haven. And it has truly been safe – more than 100 dolphins have lived here for generations, shaping local myths, legends and spiritual beliefs. I had never seen so many, so close.
Jay Bau, owner of Natalei Eco Lodge, took us there on his boat, explaining that we couldn’t go into the water to swim with the dolphins as it may disrupt their behaviour. Instead, we drove to a clearer path to snorkel in the clearest water I have seen.
Slouched on some coral heads was something beautiful. Bold, vibrant and brilliant, the linckia blue star is a showstopper. A diva, for sure. She was a symbol of quiet beauty and she was unforgettable, like Moon Reef itself.
Fly direct from Auckland to Nadi International Airport or Nausori International Airport with Air New Zealand or Fiji Airways. The flight takes about three hours.
