Victoria's pink lakes

By JENNIFER GRIMWADE

For years I had been trying to imagine what Victoria's famous Pink Lakes actually look like. Are they salmon pink, flamingo pink, hot pink? How big are they, how deep is the water and do they look pink all the time?

Eager to fulfil our curiosity, we embark on the long drive from Melbourne to the Murray-Sunset National Park, home of the Pink Lakes, in the semi-arid northwest of the state, 70km west of Ouyen.

We watch a brilliant pink sunset as we enter the park. Alas, when we reach the campsite on the southern shores of Lake Crosbie and have pitched our tent, it's dark. I guess we shouldn't have stopped for that beer at the Underbool club.

Lying awake, listening to the low-hanging spindly gums scraping the side of the tent, I can hear a mopoke calling in the distance. Perhaps the lakes will be really pink at sunrise?

I can't help wondering why they are pink anyway. Is it really true, or is it simply a misnomer? Only a few hours to go.

I vow to be up at sunrise, but take so long dropping off that I sleep until blazing sunshine forces me to get up.

I'm not disappointed. I find we are camped on the edge of a vast expanse of pale galah pink. Succulent, low-lying shrub separates the camp from the lake. At first I don't realise it is a little more that a pre-breakfast stroll to the edge of the so-called lake. All distances are extreme in the park, the second-largest in Victoria.

Now I know the colour, but I can't decide if it is pink water or what. But I know I've never seen anything like this before.

Keen to get closer, I resist the temptation at breakfast to study the red-rumped parrots flitting around our campsite. I don't even wash my face as the swarm of bees desperately seeking fresh water from a lonely dripping tap frighten me away. I just hope they're not in the long-drop, too.

When we finally make it to the edge of the pink lake, the only sign of life is dead beetles embedded in the pink crust of salt. Initially it looks like the whole lake is salt and we can't tell how thick it is, or if it is hard enough to walk on.

But it's irresistible, and despite having no intention, we start walking the perimeter. We encounter sculptures of dead twigs, logs, even a joey, all encrusted with the lovely pale pink salt.

Our confidence builds and we timidly walk on the salt crust. At first it proves to be rock hard.

Then we discover the remnants of a wooden ramp, even some rusted-out bits of old machinery. The legacy of commercial harvesting in the first half of last century. It is so desolate now, it is hard to imagine teams of 30 camels transporting the salt.

After walking for about two hours, we become more courageous, and start cutting across the lake, the bed of salt, for it only has a little pale pink water shimmering in the middle.

Within a blink of an eye I am knee-deep in black sticky mud, and I am sinking. In desperation, I haul myself out and walk the rest of the way, around the periphery, back to the camp. Like it or not, I have to face the bees at the tap.

At a nearby picnic spot I read on a park information board that the lakes are formed by highly saline water percolating down into the lake. This water evaporates during the heat of the summer, leaving shimmering salt beds.

The pink colour is caused by the red pigment, beta-carotene, secreted by the algae Dunaliella salina.

Believe me, it looks a lot nicer than it sounds - especially the sunset.

CASE NOTES

When to go

Any time, but spring and autumn may be more comfortable. However, the lakes - Becking, Crosbie, Roulton and Kenyon - only turn pink in winter after it has rained. The brilliant colour is best viewed at dawn, in the late afternoon or under a cloudy sky.

Getting there

The Pink Lakes are at Murray-Sunset National Park - a six-hour drive from Melbourne.

There is a train and bus service from Melbourne to Ouyen where you will find camping grounds, three motels and a hotel.

Train fares are A$55.60 ($67) one way, and up to two children pay A$2.50 ($3) each if they travel with an adult.

Kendall Airflies from Melbourne to Mildura, which is one hour by public transport from Ouyen. Flight time is 1 1/4 hours and a fully inclusive return trip costs A$315 ($379).

Hire cars are available in Mildura. You can also join escorted tours of the lakes.

Facilities

The Murray-Sunset National Park has camping grounds with fireplaces, toilets, picnic tables, but limited drinking water.

What to see and do

Follow the Pink Lakes trail. The 2.5km gentle walk should take about 1 1/2 hours starting from the picnic area.

The area is also home to Victoria's largest flower, the Murray lily, and Australia's rarest bird, the black-eared miner.

What to take

A hat, sunscreen and water. Wear strong and comfortable shoes, take a warm jumper and waterproof jacket. Never camp beneath a river red gum as they can drop their limbs without warning.

Take care when swimming. Submerged branches and currents can be hazardous.

Tourism Victoria