Venice: Salute to romantic lagoon

The domes of Venice's famed Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute are seen in the distance. Photo / Thinkstock

George Clooney's wedding put Venice in the news. But Anne Hanley finds plenty for lesser mortals to do - for free.

1. Arsenale

The Serene Republic's shipyard, or Arsenale, occupies a large swathe of eastern Venice. Founded in 1104, this huge city-within-the-city of wet and dry docks, warehouses, ropewalks and workshops was a pre-industrial marvel. In the 16th century, it employed 16,000 people. It is not regularly open to the public, but parts of the complex are used for the Art and Architecture Biennales exhibitions.

2. Burano

The jauntily hued houses of this fishers' island look like kids ran riot with a giant paintbox. The prettiness tempts visitors across from Venice on the number 12 vaporetto (water bus), as does the island's merletto (lace) tradition. A couple of delightful old lace-making women are in residence in the mornings at the Museo del Merletto in the main square.

3. Giardini Pubblici

Green space is scarce. If you or the kids need to let off steam, visit Venice's eastern end, a district laid out in the the 19th century when planners factored in a park.

4. Lido

Venice's seaside strip is more of a dormitory suburb now than the elegant haunt of rich flaneurs that it was in the early 20th century. But this unfussy quality is its charm. Disembark at the main vaporetto stop, walk 10 minutes down the Gran Viale, the Lido's main street, to the island's sea-facing side, and you'll be making sandcastles in no time. The Lido is a sleepy place, waking up only for 10 days in late August-early September when the Venice Film Festival comes to town.

5. Murano

It is fascinating to see glass being blown and fashioned into vases, glasses and baubles in the workshops on Venice's historic glass island, but be aware that any Murano excursion offered "free" by your hotel concierge involves serious pressure to buy at prices that won't be the cheapest. Make your own way there (it's 10 minutes from Fondamente Nove by vaporetto) and shop around. Murano's destiny was written when the Doge transferred all glassmaking activities here in 1291 because of Venice's fire risk See historic glassware at The Museo del Vetro.

6. Rialto

Venice looks pretty flat, but there are plenty of peaks and troughs. Rivoaltus ("high bank") - shortened to Rialto - was chosen as the site of one of the earliest settlements in the 5th century because it was (relatively) high and dry. The market moved here in 1097 and is still the place for the best fruit, veges, groceries, fish and meat.

7. Santa Maria della Salute

Dominating the final stretch of the Grand Canal before San Marco, "La Salute", as locals call it, is the uncontested masterpiece of Venetian Baroque. With its playful scrolls supporting an airy balloon of a dome, the church has a lightness that plays against its huge bulk and scale. It was built between 1631 and 1681 in thanks for the city's delivery from plague. The best of the art inside is Tintoretto's Marriage Feast at Cana.

8. San Zaccaria

This very Venetian place of worship is dedicated to the father of John the Baptist. The interior has two unmissable works of art: Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Four Saints, and Andrea Castagno's intensely human saints and putti on the ceiling of San Tarasio chapel. The square outside is good for picnics.