Venture beyond the bustling city life of Seattle and drive deep into Washington State. Photo / Getty Images
Venture beyond the bustling city life of Seattle and drive deep into Washington State. Photo / Getty Images
Road trip through Washington State’s enchanting landscapes and vibrant wine regions such as Walla Walla Valley. Alex Mitcheson ventures beyond Seattle and discovers a road trip to rival that golden oldie, Route 66.
Leaving Seattle Airport in the rear-view mirror, verdant snow-capped mountains loom in the distance. The four-lane motorway hums with city dwellers, but it doesn’t take long before Interstate 90 — the US’ longest transcontinental highway — begins to incline, and tall pine trees backed by jagged cliff faces replace industrial parks and gas stations. Making the long gradual hill climbs over the Cascade Range, with the Snoqualmie River for company, there are sudden glimpses of spring snowfall. I drift past Snoqualmie Summit Ski Area, closed for the season with stationary ski lifts and snow-covered slopes — the Pacific Ocean and bustling cityscape barely an hour behind me.
Road trip through Washington State’s enchanting landscapes and vibrant wine regions. Photo / Alex Mitcheson
Towards the Yakima Valley, there’s a noticeable decline and shift in terrain. Steep tree-covered escarpments give way to sweeping pastures and orchards. Pine trees disappear altogether. The transformation is oddly swift, with the rain-blocking effect of the mountains now behind me pivotal to a drier, rockier landscape.
Shadows are already long in Yakima as I drive the wide road into town. Historic buildings and charming shop fronts whisper a bygone era, a community with deep roots in wine, apples and hops. I check into the Hotel Maison Yakima — aptly placed to see everything on foot — and head to Schab’s Bier Den, a red brick, high-table local hangout where craft beers from near and far are sipped to soft rock. Looking like the lovechild of a Bavarian beer hall and an American country bar, I settle in and wash away my afternoon drive with local ales. Afterwards, I grab a countertop seat at Crafted, a farm-to-table James Beard-nominated restaurant that has brought contemporary, seasonal share plates to this corner of the Northwest for the last six years. The highlight is (in season) asparagus with crisp chilli oil, pickled ramps and soft-boiled egg: delicious. The following morning, dew dissipates in blazing sunshine at nearby Cowiche Canyon. Several walking tracks cross grassy gullies and shrub-lined hills beside neighbouring ridgelines of vineyards and orchards. Hitting the trails, I don’t see anyone for nearly two hours. The serenity is deafening.
Grab a countertop seat at Crafted, a farm-to-table James Beard-nominated restaurant in Washington State. Photo / Alex Mitcheson
The drive to Walla Walla starts south through Union Gap — the town’s original site — before skirting eastwards along the Yakima Valley. The extent of agriculture hits home, with winery signs and sprawling hop fields dominating the basin slopes. There’s much less greenery here, marking the change to an almost sepia-looking environment. I make time for a quick stop at Two Mountain Winery outside Zillah for brilliant estate-grown cabernet franc before lunch at Desert Wind Winery in nearby Prosser, a terracotta-splashed villa-influenced venue with patio views of the Yakima River.
Driving parallel to the Columbia River is a sobering experience; the size and majesty are a reminder of the vast geographical history here. US Route 12 takes me away from this sprawling stretch of water and, after a short drive, brings me face to face with the Blue Mountains, an expansive range acting as the backdrop to my destination of Walla Walla. Textured with jade ravines and flaunting a dusting of snow at their peaks, these rises will constantly steal my gaze over the next 48 hours.
The Blue Mountains act as the backdrop to Walla Walla township. Photo / Getty Images
Leather sofas, wooden pillars, tall palm fronds and a gleaming terrazzo floor create an undeniable art-deco feel in the lobby of the Marcus Whitman Hotel. My home for the next two nights has vintage charisma seeping out of every tile, and my two-bedroom suite is no different. A mere block from the town’s cultural hub, I make my way to Main St, where tree-lined avenues and sidewalks host wine-tasting rooms, cafes, restaurants and boutiques. Unquestionably handsome and slap bang in pristine wine country, Walla Walla is naturally a drawcard for tourism. Yet by being an agricultural hub, the town gives you an overriding sense you’re somewhere genuine: tired farm trucks trundle through town and locals blend with visitors at streetside cafes. Wandering the streets with a church bell chiming in the distance and fading light on my face, you can’t help but smile at this bucolic persona.
The pristine landscape in Walla Walla wine country is a natural drawcard for tourism.
Photo / Alex Mitcheson
The next day I’m on the road early to the Rocks District wine region, home to one of the country’s most distinct vineyard soils characterised by fist-sized cobblestones of dark volcanic basalt. At first, the minimalistic form of Rotie Cellars looks like a Bond villain hideout. Inside this impressive concrete winery building, I taste unique examples of classic varietals like syrah and grenache accompanied by incredible local cheese — minus the American accents, I could be in the Rhone Valley.
Old Homestead Alpacas provides a late morning buffer to drinks, where Mike and Elaine Vandiver offer intimate small group farm experiences among their herd, teaching the process of garment-making and the importance of native plant dyes over chemical-based alternatives. The property is idyllic and feeding time — although spirited — is the highlight.
Beneath a cloudless blue sky, the afternoon is spent zig-zagging country lanes around the Walla Walla Valley between Caprio Cellars, Dusted Valley Winery and Revelry Vintners, collecting perspectives on why their dirt creates great wine. Restaurant Hattaway’s on Alder is the finale to the day with delectable, braised beef cheeks that won’t be forgotten quickly.
Dusted Valley Winery is one of many stop-offs in and around Walla Walla in Washington State. Photo / Alex Mitcheson
After a morning saunter around Bennington Lake, I retrace my drive back towards Tri-Cities, taking a minor detour to Twin Sisters Rock. There’s a short scramble up a dusty path, yet you cannot take a bad picture of this formation and the Columbia River side by side. Following the water towards town, I check into The Lodge at Columbia Point and opt to hire an electric bike from nearby Pedego, effortlessly cruising the Riverfront Trail between picnics, parks and marinas, a vivid and fun way of getting to know the area. The rest of the afternoon is at Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery as their spring market is in full swing. Between stalls of local goods, wafts of food trucks, energetic live music — and delicious wine —it’s difficult to leave.
For exertion, take a minor detour to Twin Sisters Rock and get out of the car for some fresh air. Photo / Alex Mitcheson
Only on the return leg do I notice the imposing Red Mountain outside Tri-Cities as dawn’s first light hit its slopes. Heading towards Seattle, I pass by Yakima and Naches and subtly begin to see the return of greenery and trees. The winding White Pass Scenic Byway circumnavigates the base of Mount Rainier, where teal mirror-like lakes glisten and cliff edges soar. I find myself behind a truck laden with timber; however, with views like this — and no appointments to keep — I’m happy to take my time.
After gawping non-stop at the scenery, I’m hankering coffee. My eyes catch a glimpse of The Mountain Goat Roastery and Bakery while driving through Packwood and I quickly pull in. It epitomises a one-street small mountain town with wooden shops and businesses lining the road. Locals mill around and shout hellos across the street at one another; it’s utterly pleasant while I sip coffee and daydream off at tree-coated bluffs.
The Mountain Goat Roastery and Bakery provides refreshment while driving through Packwood. Photo / Alex Mitcheson
The early afternoon has me passing through the townships of Morton and Elbe before heading north towards Tacoma. The road widens, traffic lights reappear, and forests give way to industry. It’s a gentle transition, though, and one that readies you for the metropolis ahead. Pulling in at Sodo Urbanworks, part of Seattle’s Industrial District and an unfussy collective of food and drink vendors, I can’t help but feel I’ve come a long way. The last five hours behind the wheel have been a kaleidoscope of terrains and vistas. Happy to hang up my seat belt buckle, I settle in and sip wine from the Walla Walla Valley at rock-and-roll-infused tasting room Sleight of Hand Cellars to a soundtrack of 90s Brit Pop. All good things travel, after all.
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