Nins Bin on a bend in the road north of Kaikoura. Photo / Thomas Bywater
There's no shortage of places to sink your claws into a crayfish along the Kaikōura coast.
From bins, BBQs and BYO fishmongers - the craggy drive along State Highway 1 is awash with places to get a taste of the regional delicacy. Local seafood vendors never tire of pointing out that kōura (crayfish or 'rock lobster') is in their name.
Each year the precious quota of the red rock lobster is served up to tourists driving through from Marlborough to Canterbury. Preferably doused in garlic, butter with a slice of lemon and a sea view.
The stock and catch limits are carefully monitored to protect the populations. This means that prices can fluctuate wildly, by season or location. A $100 crayfish is not unheard of. It's not an everyday dish.
While they are harvested throughout the year, fewer fish are caught between February and May when they shed their shells and grow new red scales.
The highest catches are landed in late spring, between June and November.
But where and when is the best place to get a taste of crayfish on the Kaikōura coast?
The Karaka Lobster
With a giant sculpted rock lobster on the roof, the cafe in Okiwi bay is a welcome pit stop you just can't miss on the coastal trail. The crayfish on the menu are almost as large, served chilled on a salad, with a toasted garlic bun and lemon wedge. Expect to pay $60+
If you're only stopping for coffee and a light bite, whitebait sandwiches are another on the menu at $15 for two. karakalobster.com
Nins Bin
If not the most famous, Nins is certainly the most photogenic. An old static camper painted shades of white, sea blue and rock lobster red - the bin's crayfish regularly land on the menu of international travel guides.
This notoriety pushes can push up the price, with a whole cray costing upwards of $70, with around $85 for a monster lobster. Prices are written on their tail, to save any awkward moments on the scales.
Depending on the season, mussels, paua and whitebait fritters are also on offer. Crays and the equally filling are the fish and chips are always on the menu.
Tuck in on chunky roadside furniture made from old railway sleepers and shingle beach. ninsbin.co.nz
Kaikōura Seafood BBQ
The unassuming kiosk overlooking Amers Beach might be the most cost-effective place to get your kaimoana. It's a food stall that is "world-famous" in New Zealand. On the way to the peninsula, it's the perfect post- (or pre-!) walk out to the fur seal colonies.
$45+ for a whole cray served with rice, salad and garlic bread.
Open-air and on the waterfront, watch out for hungry seagulls. Be sure to clear your plates or prepare to be swooped. facebook.com/thekaikouraseafoodbbq
Pier Hotel, Waikatu Quay
On the wharf with views over the pier and back towards the seaward Kaikōura ranges, the Pier Hotel is a treat. A proper, old shorefront pub that has a menu specialising in seafood and - of course - crayfish. Whole crayfish are similarly priced to other bins, but with the benefit of a bar and the option of a roof over your head.
Also on the menu is a twist on the traditional seafood specialty, crayfish chowder at $29 thepierhotel.co.nz
The fishmongers and chip shop on the high street is a port of call for anyone looking for fresh fish.
Next to the BP garage on the highway, it's a 'gills without the frills' operation. There's no sea view, but the fish is not to be bettered.
You can eat in, takeaway or buy your fillets and shellfish fresh. Depending on the day you'll find a counter stocked with butterfish, blue cod and gurnard.
Of course, you could always dive into the deep end and catch your own. However, before you get your wetsuit on, there are some VERY stringent rules from MPI on minimum size and maximum catch limit.
Fishing in restricted areas or being caught selling recreationally caught crays could land you a fine of $100,000 to $250,000. Ouch!
An easy way to navigate this is by taking a charter with one of the Kaikōura fishing boats. Companies such as Kaikōura Fishing Tours or Top Catch Charters give you a chance to fish for your own kai and can cook your cray on the boat.