Taichung offers a blend of quirky art, rich history, and world-class food without the crowds of Taipei. Photo / Getty Images
Taichung offers a blend of quirky art, rich history, and world-class food without the crowds of Taipei. Photo / Getty Images
There are many unexpected and delightful experiences in Taichung; Taiwan’s lesser-known big city, writes Nannette Holliday
The thick, sweet aroma of caramelised sugar and fresh tea fills the air as I receive my first-ever bubble tea. It’s not a carbonated tea but an iced tea, with little black balls of sweet, chewy tapioca pearls sitting at the bottom of the glass, that burst delightfully in my mouth adding an unexpected freshness.
Although I’m not a regular tea or coffee drinker, learning about and tasting the foods and drinks of a country assists in understanding their culture, and bubble tea is one of Taiwan’s most renowned cultural exports.
The original cosy Chun Shui Tang teahouse in Taichung City is the birthplace of bubble tea and it buzzes with excitement as Angela Liu explains how her father invented this unique twist to iced tea in 1986.
Today, green to jasmine, matcha, oolong, tieguanyin (coffee-like tea) and fruit teas are all enhanced with these flavoursome balls.
Taichung is the birthplace of bubble tea, invented in 1986 at Chun Shui Tang teahouse. Photo / Nannette Holliday
Why visit Taichung?
Pronounced Tai-zhang, it means ‘Taiwan Middle’, and it sits centrally along Taiwan’s west coast, with a year-round mild climate and less rain than Taipei. Briefly, it was the Taiwanese capital in the late 1800s. Taichung City and County, encompassing Shei-Pa National Park high mountains to Taroke Gorge on the east side, were combined in 2010, and it’s now all known as Taichung City.
Despite being Taiwan’s third largest city with 2.8 million people, Taichung is a predominantly residential/manufacturing town, home to Giant bicycles and toys. It’s cheaper and more relaxing, with fewer crowds, than Taipei. You won’t feel rushed or overwhelmed. Taichung flies so far under the radar that it delivers a genuinely immersive Taiwanese experience without even trying.
Taichung is cheaper and more relaxing, with fewer crowds, than Taipei. Photo / Getty Images
What to see and do
Discover quirky, creative art installations dotted around outside the swish Taichung TRA Station. Next door, the old station is now the Taichung Station Railway Cultural Centre. Old carriages are dining venues; picnic on the old tracks and pick up a cute craft, freshly baked pineapple, and sun cakes at the weekend markets.
Then, stroll Taiwan Connect 1908, a reclaimed railway line sky garden. Four minutes away, in a charming 1920s red brick building with its Harry Potter Hogwarts timber interior, lick your way through Miyahara’s 60-odd flavours of ice cream or discover tasty Taiwanese gourmet cuisine upstairs in the Moon Pavillion.
Taichung has Taiwan’s only Michelin-starred ice cream shop, Minimal. Photo / Nannette Holliday
However, if you’d rather avoid the queues, head around the corner to Fourth Credit Union, a former bank, now a dessert hall over three levels.
You’ll find the same ice cream and zingy street food from thick noodle soup to stinky tofu or spicy hot pot thrown in for good measure with plenty of seating. You’ll also find the original Chun Shui Tang teahouse nearby. Book a seat at Minimal (months in advance) to up the ice cream anti. It’s the only Michelin star ice cream in the world.
My jaw dropped at the biggest booze bar inside Taichung’s popular 7-Eleven store at 400 Taiwan Rd, Central — with cheap beer, chandeliers, and a Pokemon Go machine included.
Taichung’s 7-Eleven on Taiwan Rd is famous for its chandelier-lit booze bar and Pokémon Go machine. Photo / Nannette Holliday
This little piggy also went to Taichung’s Fengchia Night Market, the largest in Taiwan. There are over 200 pop-ups, permanent clothing, tech stores, and mouthwatering foods in an exhilarating carnival atmosphere.
For a taste of history, Second Market has been around for over 100 years, with a small museum upstairs above the street food stalls. Alternatively, Fifth Street Market is a neighbourhood market near Confucian Examination Hall x Zhong Dao GLab, the only remaining Qing Dynasty examination hall, now a cross between a library and super cute GLab coffee roaster shop and cafe.
The city’s Fengchia Night Market is Taiwan’s largest, with over 200 food and retail stalls. Photo / Nanette Holiday
Stroll between these markets along Liuchuan Riverside Walk, surrounded by native vegetation. The relaxing promenade has water sculptures and stepping stones to cross the canal. Peaceful Taichung Park, near Second Market, is the oldest park in town. Hire a pedalo to take in the Japanese Pagoda, koi carp fish-filled lake, fountain and red wooden arch bridge in style.
Explore the National Museum of Fine Art’s various art exhibitions and sculptures spread across 20 different galleries. Get hands-on at the National Museum of Natural Science and Space Imax Centre over six buildings. Connecting these museums is Calligraphy Greenway dotted with art installations and the world’s only World of Warcraft statue from the hit online game.
For a mix of modern and artistic, the National Taichung Theatre’s futuristic curvy design and rooftop garden oasis offer fun-loving, Insta-worthy dinosaur benches and breath-taking views.
The National Taichung Theatre’s futuristic design features dinosaur-shaped benches on its rooftop garden. Photo / Nannette Holliday
Opened in 2024, Eslite Spectrum Taichung 480 is a one-stop shopping mall laden with beautiful books, cute collectibles, unique gifts, home furnishings, restaurants and food courts. Another popular independent retail outlet is Shen Ji New Village, a former 1960s dormitory. It has a design studio, leather workshop, brewery, coffee shops, and charming historical nooks and crannies to explore.
For some of the coolest toys and retro vintage goods, visit UpToy. Upstairs in Yue Lao Office, teenagers are finding ‘true love’ via quirky coloured capsules. Housed in old warehouses, Fantasy Story Green Ray is a hipster hangout with trendy craft stores, coffee and food stalls and Taihu Brewing, Taiwan’s tastiest craft beer.
Further afield
A 30-minute ride on bus 25 takes you directly to the colourfully painted Rainbow Village, solely created by former KMT soldier Huang Yung-fu in 2016, then 86, to save his home and village from demolition. Sadly, ‘Rainbow Grandpa’ passed away aged 101 in January 2024. Despite the Taiwanese Government now building towering apartment blocks all around it, the village remains a free-to-enter, unique and cheerful place.
The Rainbow Village was painted by a retired soldier to save his home from demolition. Photo / Nannette Holliday
Plentiful natural attractions and hiking trails surround Taichung. Gaomei Wetland at the mouth of Gajia River, 45 minutes away, is a flat 1500ha ecologically rich natural wetland renowned for diverse birdlife, crabs, long boardwalks and spectacular sunsets.
From November to April, Taichung’s temperate climate is a hot spot for lavender, tulips, sunflowers, plum and cherry blossoms. Check out Xinshe Flower Festival between November and December. Or drive an hour north of town to Zhongshe Flower Market (Zhongshe Sea of Flowers) open all year round with props spread throughout for those unmistakable Insta shots amongst the colourful blooms.
Gaomei Wetland is one of Taiwan’s best spots for birdwatching and sunset views. Photo / Nannette Holliday
Sun Moon Lake is a day trip or overnight stay away. Surrounded by emerald-covered mountains where oolong black tea grows, and nearly extinct aboriginal tribes live, it’s calm and relaxing.
Ride the ferry and scenic bikeways to Wenwu, Xuanguang Temple or Ci’en Pagoda. Bask in the majestic vistas and pristine turquoise water. Savour aboriginal foods and millet wine at the Thao tribe village, Ita Thao.
Jump aboard the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway for a 15-minute panoramic vista to the top, where you’ll find Formosa Aboriginal Cultural Village with Taiwanese aboriginal displays and performances. A second cable car takes you down to the Spanish Coast Theme Park and all your childhood amusement rides. The cherry blossoms make it magical during February and early March, without the crowds found in Japan.
Sun Moon Lake theme park. Photo / Nannette Holliday
A visit to Guguan, 800m-high into the picturesque densely forested mountains, is another must-do day trip or a few days stay as there’s plenty to do. Explore the hillside village, camp, swim, fish, hike and soak in the crystal public hot springs.
On the banks of Dajia River, stay in Hoshinoya Guguan with peaceful gardens, forest walks, private thermal spas, even your own flowing through every room. In spring, the forests ooze a million shades of pink cherry blossoms, and in autumn, the maple trees add a kaleidoscopic rainbow of gold, orange, red and brown.
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