Top off with coast to tip of Coromandel

The more rugged northern region of the peninsula offers spectacular sights. MARIOS GAVALAS reports

To venture north of Coromandel Town is to experience the essence of a bygone era.

The coastal scenery is magnificent. In many places the road perches precariously on the hillside with perilous drops below to the rugged coastline.

The first main point of interest along the west coast is Colville. The Colville store is a peninsula icon and the last bastion of civilisation. You can buy almost anything, from camping gear to dried apricots.

Fuel up the car, as further north there are no shops or service stations. Apart from the occasional Department of Conservation campground there is nowhere to spend money.

There is no tarseal north of Colville. After a few kilometres the road splits with options to travel up the west coast or cross the ranges to the east coast.

The west coast route to Port Jackson, Cape Colville and Fletcher Bay is probably the more spectacular of the choices.

The road hugs the rocky foreshore and passes groves of ancient pohutukawa trees. Many are more than 150 years old and their gnarled branches reach lazily for the pebbles on the beach. Their leafy canopies provide shady picnic spots while above, red-tipped aerial roots hang from the higher branches.

The peak of Mt Moehau stands sentinel over the northern reaches of the peninsula and dominates the skyline. This mountain is sacred to the local Maori, whose chief Tama-te-kapua was buried here. The summit ranges are home to unique species of alpine flora, many of which reach the northern limit of their distribution.

On leaving the coast, the road climbs steadily to a lookout above Port Jackson. The views of Great Barrier Island and the Hauraki Gulf are wondrous. On a clear day you can make out the buildings of downtown Auckland behind Waiheke Island.

Port Jackson is a gently curving arc of sand that offers safe swimming. A DoC campground with piped water, showers and toilet facilities runs the length of the beach. The bay is guarded by Cape Colville, the most northerly point on the peninsula.

A whaling station was formerly sited near the cape. On the opposite side of the bay are the remains of an old jetty, which was used in the early 1900s to load barges with flax. Barges were packed at low tide while stranded on the seabed. They floated away, fully laden, on the high tide.

Port Jackson was the site of a fierce and bloody battle in 1828 between Nga Puhi and Ngati Maru. For many years after, the area was declared tapu (sacred).

Maori were attracted to the region by the abundance of snapper, kingfish and hapuka.

Past Port Jackson, the scenery is characterised by sheer cliffs that cascade to the frothing waters below. Vicious winds whip the blue water into crests of white. Flax leaves grate against each other with every gust. This is coastal New Zealand at its most awe-inspiring.

Fletcher Bay is the end of the road. There is another DoC campground with basic facilities.

At the far end of the campground the start of the Coromandel Walkway is signposted.

This three-hour walk follows the coast to Stony Bay. It is the only way to complete a loop of the Coromandel Peninsula.

The track is of a moderate grade and well-marked. From Fletcher Bay the path crosses farmland past the remains of an old fencer's hut. The ramshackle shed, rusting corrugated iron and abandoned long-drop are reminders of the Coromandel's early farming days.

After a steep climb out of Poley Bay there are vistas down the north-east coast. Approaching Stony Bay the track enters regenerating forest filled with birdsong.

If attempting the walk in one direction only, it is advisable to arrange transport to meet you at Stony Bay, which also has a department campground.

The east coast road passes through delightful secluded settlements, many right on the beach. The highlight is Waikawau Bay, with 3km of golden sand.

Kennedy Bay also has a sweeping beach with a picturesque estuary. The rotting skeleton of an abandoned barge lies close to the roadside. It is not uncommon to see children fishing from the bridge or collecting shellfish from the mud of the mangrove forest.

The return drive to Coromandel Town crosses the ranges. After a visit to the peninsula's top end, even sleepy Coromandel Town seems like a bustling hive of activity.