Mt Tongariro's steam vents remind walkers that this volcano is still active. Photo / Greg Bowker
Mt Tongariro's steam vents remind walkers that this volcano is still active. Photo / Greg Bowker
A hike up and down a volcano gets Duncan Garner thinking he should really do more of this kind of exercise.
A week after I'd finished the Tongariro Crossing, the pain in my legs had finally gone. But only just.
Don't let the threat of sore legs put you off one of New Zealand's great walks. Did I do enough preparation in advance of walking the Tongariro Crossing? Probably not. Did I feel like I nailed it? I do now.
My wife and I finished the crossing in five hours and 52 minutes - that included a few stops for water, food and a breather. We wanted to do it under six hours, so we were very satisfied with ourselves.
This was seriously cool. I think I could become addicted to this alpine stuff; I'm now looking at other walks we can do.
Let me start from the beginning. I planned this a few months ago,when we bought the pass and two nights' accommodation for about $200 on GrabOne. With just a little bit of time walking the hills and bush tracks around Blockhouse Bay as preparation, we arrived late on Friday night in Ohakune and stayed at the Clyde Hotel.
It's budget. The lights didn't work. It was a bunk in a room with a basin in the corner. Cheap. Perfect.
We asked for new light bulbs and they gave us two lamps. They didn't work either. We spent the weekend in the dark. So what. I was there to climb a mountain, not read books with the lights on.
We hit the hay at 11pm. The room: nice and dark. Up at 6.30am to get ready for 7am bus pick-up, my wife fancied a hot shower - but, like the lights, no luck. It was cold. I didn't bother trying - what was the point? We were about to walk 20km.
We were told to head to the bakery next door to get the bus and buy a sandwich for the hike. Again: tough luck. The sandwiches weren't ready. The lesson? Plan and pack your lunch beforehand - which we had done.
I took 2 litres of water, muesli bars, two apples, peanuts, a banana and a cheesy roll. Oh, and a Mars bar. It was plenty. Weeks later, the apples were still rolling around in the backpack.
The bus took us to the Mangatepopo carpark. Do it from this side! Trust me: it's the way to go in. Coming in from the other side is for the truly insane and superbly fit.
We were under way by 8.30am and soon reached the first tough bit, the "devil's staircase" - take your time - admire the view. Stop for water and photos.
There are toilets every now and then along the route - but they get busy - so prepare for that. Blokes, there aren't many trees to hide behind. I did find a large rock at one stage.
My wife stopped and changed clothes about three times during the first two hours; the weather can really change. Hot, cold, hot, cold.
The Emerald Lake is a highlight of the Tongariro Crossing. Photo / Greg Bowker
We continued on to South Crater and up to Red Crater. The steep bit before Red Crater was a bit tougher. Take it slowly - and you'll get there. The view faded for us as the clouds moved in, but the craters are superb. You'll see lava flows and Mt Ngauruhoe is simply majestic.
We found a rock up by the lakes and planted our backsides on it for lunch. There were hundreds of people on the walk. It's like State Highway One - there are more people on the trek than in some small towns.
This walking business is a serious industry. At times it was so busy I got stuck behind people and there was no way around them. And, yes, I'm sure people felt the same behind me at times.
Past the Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake - again, stop for a drink and a photo - we took it easy along the gentle walk down to Ketetahi Hut. You can see the end from here, but don't be fooled. At this stage you see volcanic activity, too - it's all puffing away. The lava flow from an 1898 eruption is still quite obvious. But there's another 6km to go and it's really tough on the thighs.
I found descending tougher than going up. The last hour is through native bush then, finally, you make it. The bus pick-up; the ride to the pub.
What did I learn? It's rugged and beautiful. The landscape, I can imagine, is like being on Mars. I loved it. I felt such a sense of achievement.
I was buggered but fulfilled. I saw old and young on the trek. An 84-year-old grandmother had done it the week before us. A bloke I met at the top of Red Crater had just had a knee replacement - and he was testing it.
The writer pauses to catch his breath mid-crossing. Photo / Duncan Garner
There's no rush on this trail - you can take your time - and the scenery is stunning. Up there, it feels like you can see half the North Island.
On the way back in the bus, there was no noise. Most people fell asleep. Back at the Clyde, I grabbed a beer. It didn't touch the sides.
We managed to book a spa pool at the LKNZ lodge opposite the police station. Brilliant.
