The writer (third from right next to a shirtless Charles Piutau) and his buddies had to amuse themselves fishing. Photo / James Russell
The writer (third from right next to a shirtless Charles Piutau) and his buddies had to amuse themselves fishing. Photo / James Russell
Flat seas threaten to ruin his surfing trip, but James Russell avoids breaking point thanks to some awe-inspiring oceanic phenomena.
The biannual mates' surf trip took a decided turn for the exotic when someone mentioned the swell forecast was looking promising for the Kingdom of Tonga.
Typically enjoyed in the usual surfing destinations of the North Island - 90 Mile Beach, Taranaki, Gisborne - the allure of turquoise waters and warm offshore trade winds brushing smooth the faces of a solid south swell proved too much and the tickets were booked - prematurely.
We should have known better. Four days is an eternity in the lottery that is surf forecasting. Each day prior to departure we logged on to witness a chunky, wave-producing depression dissipate to nothing more than a mild low. Worse, forecasts for both the west and east coasts of New Zealand were for amazing waves throughout our Pacific Island folly.
But as every surfer knows, when you're paddling in, you don't pull back. Arriving at Ha'atafu Beach on the crescent hook of northwestern Tongatapu - the Kingdom's main island and the southernmost of the three island groups - all elements were in place just as imagined. With waves barely reaching to the waist.
Resisting the urge to open an immediate consolation beer, we paddled out and experienced up close the razor-sharp coral reefs upon which the waves break. Of course, small waves break in shallow water and it wasn't long until some skin was lost to the reef and we scuttled ashore to apply Betadine. All surf breaks on Tongatapu are the same - short, tubing, challenging and best suited to experienced surfers.
The Ha'atafu Beach Resort was established almost four decades ago by Aussie Steve Burling and his Tongan wife Sesika and is now mainly run by Steve's hospitable daughter Moana, husband Hola and their three beautiful children. Rather than some informal hotel, the vibe is that you've dropped into their lives for a little while, which makes the place special.
Our first run to the supermarket for beer (the resort is unlicensed which, while a little inconvenient, saves a bundle) was combined with the afternoon school pick-up and a shopping trip for a chandelier-like hand of bananas.
Repeat business to the resort is common, much of that no doubt attributable to the incredibly good food, a lot of it swimming in the ocean just a few hours prior. Dinner is buffet-style, with all guests eating together after a communal prayer.
Enjoying the beach, despite the lack of surf. Photo / James Russell
All Black and Auckland Blues player Charles Piutau was among the guests on our trip, no doubt soaking up all the warmth he could before leaving for Northern Ireland next year.
Known for the migrating whale populations which swim by from mid-July to early-October, Tonga has amazing snorkelling year-round in its gin-clear waters. At least 20 species of kaleidoscopic fish can be seen within a dozen feet of the shore at Ha'atafu. The neighbouring marine reserve boasts some 120 species.
When the waves are small, it's possible to snorkel outside the lagoon, where the reef breaks up into swim-through caves and drop-offs into the blue abyss. Here you're more likely to see a giant trevally, barracuda or tuna. To catch one for yourself, simply join the boatmen who go out fishing every day at dawn.
Hire a car for the day and the entire island can be covered comfortably, taking in sights such as the Anahulu Caves - large limestone caverns and swimmable freshwater pools - and the Mapu a Vaea (Whistle of the Noble) blowholes, where, it seems, the real swells hit.
We guessed the road at the end of which we might find them (street signs are non-existent) and were suitably blown away; large waves surging into the cliffs launch - complete with high-pressure roar - foaming white plumes of salt water high into the air. This display continues for kilometres of coastline. New Zealand's Punakaiki blowholes pale by comparison.
Evidence of the peculiarity of the Tongan monarchy is everywhere, from the gigantic royal tomb in Nuku'alofa, to the shopfronts proclaiming "God save the King", to the DVD set of the coronation of the eccentric late King George Tupou V sold in the off-licence. The cover features Tupou V kitted out in an enormous bejewelled crown and a velvet and fur cape which wouldn't be out of place on Game of Thrones and must have been murder to wear in Tonga's heat.
The juxtaposition of this privilege and the obvious hardship of most of Tonga's 100,000 residents is hard to reconcile, and you're left pondering how different this beautiful and bountiful island nation might have been with a little more equality and fiscal prudence.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct to Tonga from Auckland up to six times per week.
