To the cloud piercer

The changing colours of majestic Aoraki makes a dramatic impression. Picture / Sue Farley

We couldn't believe our luck as we drove in towards the backbone of the Southern Alps along the access road to Mt Cook, catching ever-enlarging glimpses of the mighty Cloud Piercer, Aoraki (Aorangi to North Islanders).

At Pete's Lookout, 20-odd kilometres from the road-end, we joined a chorus of campervans and tourist buses stopped in the gravel carpark, their occupants out snapping countless pictures of the snow-clad mountains framing Lake Pukaki's brilliant blue headwaters.

As we wound slowly higher, past Glentanner Station and its outdoor activities centre, the mountains became larger and began to creep around behind us, enfolding us in their icy claws. Shadows lengthened and the gullies and ravines high above took on a dark foreboding presence. I could almost picture Gandalf riding on his white Shadowfax, across the stony riverbed feeding into Lake Pukaki ...

One more corner, and there it was. More cars stopped beside the road, long lenses propped on car doors and big rocks, trained on to the proud outline of the mountain before us.

Its jagged outline carved into the blue sky behind, the shiny white snow drawing a stark contrast to the vertical black rock it clung to. Many photo-stops later we crawled up to the Hermitage, all photographed out, having only just arrived at our destination.

The Hermitage is a handsome building built to take full advantage of the world-class alpine setting. As the porter unloaded the car we commented on the fine view of Mt Cook we had photographed. "That's not Mt Cook," he said, "that is!" and pointed to an even more impressive mountain slightly around the corner from where we were looking. "You've been looking at Mt Sefton." Mortified, we thanked him, wandered through the impressive number of tour-bus passengers also checking in, and rode the elevator to our room.

One of the perks of this job is that we get to stay in some rather nice places, but nothing prepared me for this one. If you can afford the $800 a night to get the corner room on the top floor of the Hermitage then try it (they offer hefty discounts in winter).

Outside the huge picture window, which takes up all of one wall, both Mt Cook and Mt Sefton - and several other equally impressive mountains - completely filled the view. We sat for hours, drinking most of the complimentary hot and cold drinks provided, watching the mountains change from bright white to silver, to orange, then pink to grey, before finally disappearing into the soft alpine gloom of a summer evening.

We felt that if we had been paying for this we had already had our money's worth. At this point we didn't know that waking in the morning, curtains wide open, we would see a complete re-run in reverse as the rising sun hit the soft, pearly peaks at six.

Less ambitious budgets are equally catered for. The Hermitage has a selection of rooms, chalets and family units, most with mountain views, others with garden views. The restaurants and bars have great views too.

A weekend at the Hermitage will be governed to a degree by the weather. Some days the cloud stays firmly on the ground, others the sun shines all day. In winter it can snow in considerable volumes, which adds another fantastic dimension to the trip.

Several excellent day-walks take in the terminal lakes of two glaciers, alpine plants and flowers, and some serious mountain terrain. These walks range from 10 minutes return to several days.

Scenic flights are available and in winter there's heli-skiing. Add in the nearby lake and river fishing and you've pretty well filled several days.

And if the weather is bad you can fill your time without leaving the hotel, enjoying the bars and restaurants with their picture windows.

CHECKLIST

How to get there

Fly to Christchurch and then it's an easy 3 1/2-hour drive via Geraldine and Lake Tekapo to the Hermitage.

The Hermitage

The hotel is in Mt Cook Village overlooking the Hooker Valley and Mt Cook. Ph 0800 686 800, fax (03) 435 1879, www.mount-cook.com (see link below)

or reservations@hermitage.co.nz.

It has 272 rooms from de luxe to mid-range, motel units and A-framed chalets.

Facilities include a huge family restaurant, a house bar, a fine-dining restaurant, a cafe, and a bistro bar, and the motel rooms have kitchens or kitchenettes.

Things to do

In summer - walking, scenic flights and snow landings, glacier walks, mountaineering, guided walks, fishing, glacier lake kayaking, mountain biking

In winter - walking, scenic flights and snow landings, glacier walks and skiing, heli-skiing, guided walks, fishing, lake kayaking.

At any time of year - bring lots of film or an extra memory card.