To soothe the soul at Kaiteriteri Beach

By SUE FARLEY

Just an hour's drive from Nelson, Kaiteriteri Beach is quietly beautiful in a New Zealand kind of way - native beech, regenerating manuka, rocky headlands and deep, green water. It has one of those beaches of coarse, golden sand that everyone notices on a trip to the South Island.

Nearby Abel Tasman Park is full of them, and they also trickle around Separation Point and into neighbouring Golden Bay.

Kimi Ora Spa Resort overlooks this golden beach from a sheltered, sunny valley. Opened in the 1980s as a slightly alternative place that served organic food before it had become widely trendy, and hosting fasting retreats and other slightly off-beat events, it has blossomed into a serious place to soothe the soul while enjoying all the excitement and stimulation of the great outdoors.

With the Kahurangi and Abel Tasman National Parks within easy reach, and the art, wine and cafes of the greater Nelson area scattered through the nearby area, it draws people from around the world.

The health spa and therapeutic treatment area, fast becoming its main claim to fame, has been developed over the past two seasons by Dr Hans Brutscher and Fiona Thornton. Fresh from developing the spa at Puka Park, they brought a sophisticated range of therapies for health and well-being to the resort.

The spa menu reads like that of any good European spa, with wraps, beauty therapies, oxygen therapy, moor mud and fango treatments, spinal and muscular therapies and a selection of hydrotherapy options.

A vichy shower, soothing European bath treatments, a hydro-electric bath and indoor heated pool round out the indoor options. At the outdoor pool, a sculptured rock grotto houses the group spa, a relaxation room, dry sauna and steam room, and a quirky cold waterfall that works as effectively as any plunge pool. A rock-climbing wall and walking tracks complete the experience.

I chose a relaxing, soothing body wrap, with the soft fragrances of meadowsweet and traveller's joy. As I lay on a heated table, cocooned in a crinkly wrap, with the creamy, herbal gel seeping into my pores, my face had a thick marine mask applied and my scalp was gently massaged.

After being de-masked, showered and moisturised, I felt as cool as a sea cucumber, and definitely prettier than one. But soothing, healing and pampering are not the only things on offer at Kimi Ora, which has long been noted for its organic restaurant.

Chefs Bob Rozier and Jan Barnett have brought new life to the resort's cuisine. The vegetarian global and Pacific-style cuisine will satisfy most palates and, as Jan says, the chocolate mousse is as sweet and thick as anywhere else - rules are made to be broken.

Food is organic, fresh and preferably local. Several large vegetable gardens and two greenhouses at the back of the resort ensure a fresh supply of food and herbs. A full-time gardener ensures that the resort's supply and standards are maintained.



The wine list features organically produced wines and beers from the Nelson area, and a few from further afield. Bio-Gro numbers on the wine list testify to the standard set.

Kimi Ora is a genuine back-to-nature escape high on pampering and good health without being too hung up about it. Scrubbed, soothed and well-fed, I felt a million dollars as I headed back to civilisation.

Case notes:

Where

Kimi Ora Spa Resort, Martin Farm Rd, Kaiteriteri, Nelson

Ph (0508) 546 4672, fax (03) 527 8134

email: info@kimiora.com

What it costs

Accommodation is in separate villas, several with spa baths on the deck.

B&B rates (includes use of all facilities): studio, single $129; double $163. Standard suite, single $149; double $193. Spa suite, single $169; double $223.

Package rates (includes dinner, bed and breakfast and a spa treatment for one person): Studio, single $190; double $250. Standard suite, single $210; double $280. Spa suite, single $230; double $310.

Getting there

Direct flights from Auckland to Nelson take an hour and 20 minutes. Through Wellington add another hour. Air New Zealand and Origin Pacific both serve Nelson.

Arrange to pick up a rental car from Nelson airport, and it's a one-hour drive west to Kaiteriteri, through Motueka. Good road all the way.

Access

Some units have wheelchair access and there are wide paths throughout the resort. Ask ahead, as some units are on slopes.

Children

Kids are always welcome. It's a fun spot for them.

Smoking

The resort is smoke-free apart from a smoking hut down a manuka-lined track.

What's good

The spa and pool facilities make Kimi Ora a great spot no matter what the weather is like. With an indoor and outdoor pool, spa, sauna and rock-climbing wall there's plenty to do. The beach is an easy, 10-minute walk down the valley, where the ferries for the Abel Tasman Park leave each morning. Sea kayaks and faster water taxis also leave from the beach. Spa baths on the decks of some units add a hint of luxury. All the accommodation is well appointed and comfortable.

Food

The restaurant is vegetarian and as organic as is possible and the menu is changed daily.

There is no preferred cuisine above the basic vegetarian philosophy. Mediterranean, Asian, Middle Eastern and European dishes are served, with many of the herbs coming from the gardens up on the hill. Vegan and other special dietary requirements such as gluten- or sugar-free can be catered for on request.

A typical evening menu may read something like: sushi entree, pea and potato soup, sesame-roasted vegetables with a miso sauce, served with a green salad and marinated beetroot, followed by chocolate cake and ganache. The usual cost for dinner is $30 to $39 a person (kids are less). Drinks are extra, and also organic.

Room service is available.

www.kimiora.com