Arriving on a temperate day in late spring with our overnight gear, we disembarked from the ferry and headed to the bunkhouse. It was packed that weekend with lively volunteers, among them former lighthouse keeper Ray Walter.
Ray, 78, was a lighthouse keeper from the age of 20, only giving up in the mid-1980s when New Zealand's lighthouses became fully automated. During his career, Ray and his late wife raised five children on various barren outposts and, while it wasn't what you'd call light work, they loved the lifestyle. It has to be noted, his legs still possess the muscular tone of a man who has climbed a lot of stairs for a living.
So who better to take us on a tour? Ray, armed with the trusty old key, unlocked the tower and urged the door open with a bit of a kick. Up the 77 steps we clambered, admiring various artifacts along the way (among them the old xenon light of 11 million candlepower). Nothing could have prepared us for the endless views and the sense of wonderment we experienced from the top on that sunny Auckland afternoon.
Gazing out to sea, Ray reminisced about his life and times. Back in the day, he told us, a keeper would usually start at a three-man lighthouse for training. If that went well and he passed all his exams he'd be transferred to a two-man station and then, if he hadn't gone mad with the isolation, after about five years he'd be offered a sole-charge post.
A keeper's standard day would consist of painting, polishing and dusting, keeping the lens clean and, of course, switching the light on and off. In most lighthouses there were curtains that had to be drawn. Electrical know-how was also essential - the term "multitasker" could've been invented for these chaps.
When the 11 million candlepower xenon light was operating it had a range of 58 miles and it could sometimes be seen by aircraft as far away as Taranaki with the beam itself penetrating the night sky up to 80 miles away although today that light has been replaced by the vega (one million candlepower).
The foghorn on Tiri is also a thing of wonder, although we weren't allowed to crank it up for sport because the birds find it puts them off stride for nesting and mating. So, with just 13 days of fog a year, if you want to hear the horn's robust blast, you'd be wise to visit the island this New Year's Day.
And do bring a torch (ideally with a red beam) because, with a bit of luck, you might get to spot a kiwi after dark. Not wanting to skite, but we saw six on our visit, making it something of a record.
I get to do a lot of fun things in my line of work but seeing the world from the top of this lighthouse was a highlight of my adventures this year, literally and figuratively. For days afterwards I couldn't wipe the beaming grin from my face.
IF YOU GO
For details of ferry times, prices and to book see: 360discovery.co.nz.
Elisabeth and her companion were guests of the Supporters of Tiritiri Matangi. Thanks, too, to the Maritime Safety Authority (MSA) for letting us into the tower.
